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Ball joints factory torque specs

JMONEZ

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So I have been dealing with a clicking front end as well, and I have a theory as to the problem.

The instructions posted here by Wfd1244 specify that you should first torque the ball joint, and then continue past that point to the next available slot for the cotter pin. But I have a feeling that they are being torqued to the specified torque value, and then if the hole is already lined up, they are being left in this position.

Well the problem is that if that nut backs off even a tiny amount from that point, which it can still do with that cotter pin in place, then the nut is only practically finger tight at that point.

The reason I know this, is because I already checked my ball joints once, and I did exactly this, and the clicking was still present. Then after a few weeks, I decided to recheck them, and one of them was super loose.

So this past time, I decided to proceed to the next slot on the nut, even if the hole was already lined up with the specified torque. By the way, while doing this, I heard the clicking noise from one of the ball joints. By the time the next slot in the nut was reached, my torque wrench was clicking over 90 ft lbs. on the top ball joint.

By the way, my front end clicking is now gone.

This would also explain why some people have the issue come back after the dealer "tightens" the ball joint. Because if they don't continue past the torque value to the next slot, it can still back off enough to be too loose.

Just a theory.
i guess I’ll take a breaker bar to them all tomorrow, I’m hearing clicking from both sides, I’m currently at 37 on lowers and 59 at uppers, no noise heard though when tightening them, but I still hear noise daily in forward and reverse with slight turn. Should they be tightened with veh off the ground? Thanks
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ocrejects

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i guess I’ll take a breaker bar to them all tomorrow, I’m hearing clicking from both sides, I’m currently at 37 on lowers and 59 at uppers, no noise heard though when tightening them, but I still hear noise daily in forward and reverse with slight turn. Should they be tightened with veh off the ground? Thanks
Always do the final torque with the vehicle on the ground
 

JMONEZ

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Do you have a lift on a vehicle or is it stock?
2.5 lift, springs, shocks, track bar, stabilizer, and drag link all upgraded and all tight to spec. I’ve tried lubing nuts, bolts, brackets, joints in order too to track down, no luck yet!
 

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Found them loose on my JLUR as well as the drag link and tie rod ends where they attach to the knuckles. Anyone have torque specs or know where I can find them for the whole Jeep? I'd like to know the spec for the rod end in the steering arm as well as the nut on the sector shaft holding the pitman arm to the box.
You ever find the torque specs for the entire Jeep?
 

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unsavory

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i guess I’ll take a breaker bar to them all tomorrow, I’m hearing clicking from both sides, I’m currently at 37 on lowers and 59 at uppers, no noise heard though when tightening them, but I still hear noise daily in forward and reverse with slight turn. Should they be tightened with veh off the ground? Thanks
I did mine on the ground. Let us know how it goes.
 

JMONEZ

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I’ve done mine on the ground, noise seems to be more on passenger side. I tightened the hell out of uppers and lowers and still have the noise. Is there a magic number (torque value) that’ll make these stop clicking and snapping? I’m wondering with weight off the vehicle if that’d help?
 

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SACCO

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I had my ball joints replaced by the dealer after I had the clicking noise problem. This was the sheet that came in the box with the ball joints explaining the installation.

Top ball joint: 52-59 ft. Lbs.
Bottoms ball joint: 30-37 ft. Lbs.

5C96A1E3-8360-4072-A4EF-9EF365EDFDC0.jpeg
Thank you. Fixed my friends jl right up.

His cotter pin wasn't even installed from factory
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