Does anyone know the torque specs on the JL ball joints? My service department says it’s 33 foot pounds.. but I thought I read it was higher..
So I have been dealing with a clicking front end as well, and I have a theory as to the problem.
The instructions posted here by Wfd1244 specify that you should first torque the ball joint, and then continue past that point to the next available slot for the cotter pin. But I have a feeling that they are being torqued to the specified torque value, and then if the hole is already lined up, they are being left in this position.
Well the problem is that if that nut backs off even a tiny amount from that point, which it can still do with that cotter pin in place, then the nut is only practically finger tight at that point.
The reason I know this, is because I already checked my ball joints once, and I did exactly this, and the clicking was still present. Then after a few weeks, I decided to recheck them, and one of them was super loose.
So this past time, I decided to proceed to the next slot on the nut, even if the hole was already lined up with the specified torque. By the way, while doing this, I heard the clicking noise from one of the ball joints. By the time the next slot in the nut was reached, my torque wrench was clicking over 90 ft lbs. on the top ball joint.
By the way, my front end clicking is now gone.
This would also explain why some people have the issue come back after the dealer "tightens" the ball joint. Because if they don't continue past the torque value to the next slot, it can still back off enough to be too loose.
Just a theory.
It can be done with the wheel on. You might need to rotate the tire forward/backward to get an opening large enough in the u-joints to get your torque wrench in there.I like it. Do I need to take the wheel off to do this or did you simply full turn to the right and then to the left.
I feel your pain with the dealer. I took it in to my tire place and explained it to him. He retorqued the nuts and now no clicking.