Ball Joint Spins When Torqueing

[nU7OuxIx]

I was checking the torque on my lower ball joints today and the nut seemed to rotate when torqueing. I'm presuming this is normal behavior, since it's a ball.....in a joint... and mopar put a little spot on the end of the ball joint stud to put a wrench on to prevent spinning when torqueing.

BUT, since I haven't been able to find many references to it on here, I thought I would ask. Is it normal to have the ball joint nut spin when torqueing? I ended up using a crows foot and crescent wrench to torque everything down.

Thanks!

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[stumblinhorse]

I was checking the torque on my lower ball joints today and the nut seemed to rotate when torqueing. I'm presuming this is normal behavior, since it's a ball.....in a joint... and mopar put a little spot on the end of the ball joint stud to put a wrench on to prevent spinning when torqueing.

BUT, since I haven't been able to find many references to it on here, I thought I would ask. Is it normal to have the ball joint nut spin when torqueing? I ended up using a crows foot and crescent wrench to torque everything down.

Thanks!

Not exactly following. If you‘re saying the nut turns when torquing then that is correct. That is tightening. If you are saying the “bolt” portion of the ball joint, cone, is spinning when you torque the nut, then no that is not normal. Is the entire ball joint turning in place or just the cone?

 

[nU7OuxIx]

Not exactly following. If you‘re saying the nut turns when torquing then that is correct. That is tightening. If you are saying the “bolt” portion of the ball joint, cone, is spinning when you torque the nut, then no that is not normal. Is the entire ball joint turning in place or just the cone?

Thanks for the response Let me rephrase...

When torquing the nut, the stud is turning with the nut. Mind you, I jacked the vehicle up and took the wheel off, so there was no weight on the ball joints when this occurred.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

They should be pressed in tight enough that they don't spin. Good thing you checked and tightened them.

 

[stumblinhorse]

Thanks for the response Let me rephrase...

When torquing the nut, the stud is turning with the nut. Mind you, I jacked the vehicle up and took the wheel off, so there was no weight on the ball joints when this occurred.

It can move a little but it should not turn a complete revolution. It should stop turning and allow you to torque to spec.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

I'm not exactly sure how much it turned. I was torqueing it and moved a bit and was like uh oh, that's not right.

I ended up putting a wrench at the end of the stud and was able to torque it the rest of the way.

 

[Headbarcode]

I was checking the torque on my lower ball joints today and the nut seemed to rotate when torqueing. I'm presuming this is normal behavior, since it's a ball.....in a joint... and mopar put a little spot on the end of the ball joint stud to put a wrench on to prevent spinning when torqueing.

BUT, since I haven't been able to find many references to it on here, I thought I would ask. Is it normal to have the ball joint nut spin when torqueing? I ended up using a crows foot and crescent wrench to torque everything down.

Thanks!

No, that should definitely not be happening. The ball joint stud is tapered and should be locked into the matching female taper in the knuckle. Technically, the taper alone should hold on its own, and the nut is just to provide a redundant back up to the hold. The fact that it rotated indicates wear and any unwanted movement will quickly damage the tapered joint in the aluminum knuckle.

Being able to put a wrench on the end of the stud, to keep it from spinning while rotating the nut, is really only there for disassembly. Typically, the threads are questionable at that point and getting the nut off would be a royal pain without that little built in feature.

 

[Joe's_Roxy]

Look at a ball joint as a two part component. You have the part the gets pressed into the axle Cs. This part shouldn't move or spin...ever. The part that the knuckle attaches to moves around. It can spin and pivot as needed. When you were tightening your ball joint nut, you were spinning that pivoting part of the ball joint.

 

[Tech Tim]

I was checking the torque on my lower ball joints today and the nut seemed to rotate when torqueing. I'm presuming this is normal behavior, since it's a ball.....in a joint... and mopar put a little spot on the end of the ball joint stud to put a wrench on to prevent spinning when torqueing.

BUT, since I haven't been able to find many references to it on here, I thought I would ask. Is it normal to have the ball joint nut spin when torqueing? I ended up using a crows foot and crescent wrench to torque everything down.

Thanks!

I get what you are saying Mike.

Yes, that can happen, and often does it when a ball joint has been ran when it is loose.

You did it right, use a wrench to hold the ball shank, then tighten the nut.

 

[Headbarcode]

Look at a ball joint as a two part component. You have the part the gets pressed into the axle Cs. This part shouldn't move or spin...ever. The part that the knuckle attaches to moves around. It can spin and pivot as needed. When you were tightening your ball joint nut, you were spinning that pivoting part of the ball joint.

Just to clarify, the ball stud is meant to rotate and pivot in the housing that's pressed into the C when turning the steering. It should not be rotating or pivoting independent of the knuckle, because the tapered stud should be locked to the taper in the knuckle. Otherwise, it won't take long for the ball joint stud to wallow out the aluminum knuckle.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

Just to clarify, the ball stud is meant to rotate and pivot in the housing that's pressed into the C when turning the steering. It should not be rotating or pivoting independent of the knuckle, because the tapered stud should be locked to the taper in the knuckle. Otherwise, it won't take long for the ball joint stud to wallow out the aluminum knuckle.

I see what you're saying there and it makes sense. Should that occur if there was no weight on the tire? If I check the torque when all the tires are on the ground and I can get it to 33 ft/lbs without spinning the stud, am I good?

I'm trying to figure out where to go from here. Why would this happen? And what my next step should be. Pretty sure if I brought it into the dealer and tell them "I was checking the torque on my ball joint when..." they're going to deny it. Heck, I have fluid film all over the place and I'm thinking they would deny it because of that.

 

[stumblinhorse]

I see what you're saying there and it makes sense. Should that occur if there was no weight on the tire? If I check the torque when all the tires are on the ground and I can get it to 33 ft/lbs without spinning the stud, am I good?

I'm trying to figure out where to go from here. Why would this happen? And what my next step should be. Pretty sure if I brought it into the dealer and tell them "I was checking the torque on my ball joint when..." they're going to deny it. Heck, I have fluid film all over the place and I'm thinking they would deny it because of that.

That really shouldn’t matter. The nut should hold the stud tight enuf to not allow any movement.

 

[Headbarcode]

I see what you're saying there and it makes sense. Should that occur if there was no weight on the tire? If I check the torque when all the tires are on the ground and I can get it to 33 ft/lbs without spinning the stud, am I good?

I'm trying to figure out where to go from here. Why would this happen? And what my next step should be. Pretty sure if I brought it into the dealer and tell them "I was checking the torque on my ball joint when..." they're going to deny it. Heck, I have fluid film all over the place and I'm thinking they would deny it because of that.

Those tapers should remain locked, regardless of sitting on all 4 tires, or jacked up with the wheels off.

My best guess, without seeing it first hand, is that that particular ball joint wasn't properly torqued down. That allowed the taper to be broken during a run of the mill impact that occurs all the time while driving. If you're able to get it tightened down to proper torque and the stud can no longer rotate, I'd venture to say that you caught it quick enough that it didn't cause knuckle damage. I'd also suggest that you keep an eye on it periodically.

The factory ball joints are cheaply made and the ball socket in lined with plastic. You'll inevitably be replacing them. At that point, also swapping to a stronger constructed pair of knuckles would be a worthwhile pairing with stronger ball joints.

I see that you're already checking out the Reid Racing ductile iron and Mojave factory knuckles. The former are generally less money and have a pedigree in the offroad racing world, so long as you don't mind the orange powder coat finish.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

Those tapers should remain locked, regardless of sitting on all 4 tires, or jacked up with the wheels off.

My best guess, without seeing it first hand, is that that particular ball joint wasn't properly torqued down. That allowed the taper to be broken during a run of the mill impact that occurs all the time while driving. If you're able to get it tightened down to proper torque and the stud can no longer rotate, I'd venture to say that you caught it quick enough that it didn't cause knuckle damage. I'd also suggest that you keep an eye on it periodically.

The factory ball joints are cheaply made and the ball socket in lined with plastic. You'll inevitably be replacing them. At that point, also swapping to a stronger constructed pair of knuckles would be a worthwhile pairing with stronger ball joints.

I see that you're already checking out the Reid Racing ductile iron and Mojave factory knuckles. The former are generally less money and have a pedigree in the offroad racing world, so long as you don't mind the orange powder coat finish.

Thanks for the reply and it makes sense. Now that I think of it, I think I had to use a pickle fork to change the ball joints on my YJ. Or maybe I had to pound on the knuckle to get it to drop; I forget.

But yes, I actually was looking at the cast iron knuckles. At $700-some bucks they're not cheap though. My jeep is still under warranty so my plan was to get stuff fixed in warranty and if it goes out after warranty replace it with something better. Same with the ball joints. I'd rather get the dynatrac ball joints than have to keep popping OEM-like ones out.

I'll try to torque it up again tonight and check the upper ball joint as well and keep an eye on it. Hopefully I can get it to torque without having to go into the dealer for a replacement.

 

[Headbarcode]

Thanks for the reply and it makes sense. Now that I think of it, I think I had to use a pickle fork to change the ball joints on my YJ. Or maybe I had to pound on the knuckle to get it to drop; I forget.

But yes, I actually was looking at the cast iron knuckles. At $700-some bucks they're not cheap though. My jeep is still under warranty so my plan was to get stuff fixed in warranty and if it goes out after warranty replace it with something better. Same with the ball joints. I'd rather get the dynatrac ball joints than have to keep popping OEM-like ones out.

I'll try to torque it up again tonight and check the upper ball joint as well and keep an eye on it. Hopefully I can get it to torque without having to go into the dealer for a replacement.

I can't imagine the YJ being all that different, so a whack or two with a big frigging hammer was probably the method used.

I fully hear you on wanting to squeeze every bit you can get out of the warranty. Why go out of pocket if Jeep can cover the tab.

How does it feel when driving?

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