DW/Ball Joint ???

[Plan d]

So I have a 22' JLU XR with stock tires and wheels with about 19k mi. At about 18k i had a MC GC 2.5 " lift w/ rocksport red shocks installed. The Jeep rode and handled great for about 1K mi then I started to get dw. The shop checked all the bushings, rod ends and retorqued everything and found a worn out ss which was replaced with a Street Smarts ss, they also rotated and rebalanced the tires. This did absolutely nothing. So i'm thinking about going straight to the ball joints since at some point they will need replacement anyway.
My questions are.
1) Does it make sense to do the BJ first and if that doesn't fix it then start looking at other components?
2) Will I need to get an alignment afterwards?
3) How do the OEM ball joints wear out without showing any outward signs of movement at the wheel?

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[CjMiller7]

If everything has been checked as you have mentioned and appear fine, ball joints could be a starting point. Unfortunately due to how the JL BJ’s are made, even if they are the problem and going out, they do a phenomenal job of internally hiding any movement/test to visually determine if they are going bad or not.

I have a 22 JLUXR as well. In between 17-23k miles I periodically was getting death wobble but nothing consistent. Put a lift on at 24k miles and replaced the track bar hoping to fix the issue and it only became worse afterwards.

Took it into a shop and turned out the drag link and tie rod bushings were already going bad and suspected a little slop in ball joints also.

Now with a new track bar (Steersmarts), drag link/tie rod (RPM), steering stabilizer (Fox ATS), Ball joints (Synergy) and 2 alignments, it’s finally driving solid again.

 

[rivercrossing]

3) How do the OEM ball joints wear out without showing any outward signs of movement at the wheel?

I don't know how. But it does happen.

The alinement would be a good idea.

With the plan that some day you will need to do the ball joints going with upgraded ones now may be a good idea.

The track bar has been the cause of my DW in the past. Did you get a new track bar?

 

[Plan d]

I don't know how. But it does happen.

The alinement would be a good idea.

With the plan that some day you will need to do the ball joints going with upgraded ones now may be a good idea.

The track bar has been the cause of my DW in the past. Did you get a new track bar?

Yes new track bar. Stock tie rod and draglink

 

[Plan d]

If everything has been checked as you have mentioned and appear fine, ball joints could be a starting point. Unfortunately due to how the JL BJ’s are made, even if they are the problem and going out, they do a phenomenal job of internally hiding any movement/test to visually determine if they are going bad or not.

I have a 22 JLUXR as well. In between 17-23k miles I periodically was getting death wobble but nothing consistent. Put a lift on at 24k miles and replaced the track bar hoping to fix the issue and it only became worse afterwards.

Took it into a shop and turned out the drag link and tie rod bushings were already going bad and suspected a little slop in ball joints also.

Now with a new track bar (Steersmarts), drag link/tie rod (RPM), steering stabilizer (Fox ATS), Ball joints (Synergy) and 2 alignments, it’s finally driving solid again.

May I ask what shop you used? I've been going to Chris at The Edge 4x4.

 

[CjMiller7]

May I ask what shop you used? I've been going to Chris at The Edge 4x4.

Original shop was Core Offroad down in Castle Rock but they have since shut down. Just took it to the Edge Automotive working with Chris and they were absolutely incredible to work with!

I just took it to them after I still wasn’t happy with how it drove overall after the first shops work despite no more death wobble. I still had a shimmy at highway speeds and a strong pull to the right. Chris/Edge Automotive went above and beyond and did more than I asked for to truly get to the root cause of my issues. They truly are a genuine shop and took care of my jeep.

 

[Nvdardx28]

So I have a 22' JLU XR with stock tires and wheels with about 19k mi. At about 18k i had a MC GC 2.5 " lift w/ rocksport red shocks installed. The Jeep rode and handled great for about 1K mi then I started to get dw. The shop checked all the bushings, rod ends and retorqued everything and found a worn out ss which was replaced with a Street Smarts ss, they also rotated and rebalanced the tires. This did absolutely nothing. So i'm thinking about going straight to the ball joints since at some point they will need replacement anyway.
My questions are.
1) Does it make sense to do the BJ first and if that doesn't fix it then start looking at other components?
2) Will I need to get an alignment afterwards?
3) How do the OEM ball joints wear out without showing any outward signs of movement at the wheel?

It's really difficult to test for bad ball joints. In my JLUR, I had no noticeable wheel movement doing your typical ball joint test. Once I took the knuckles off after I was committed to changing the ball joints, the pins on the ball joints were loose as hell. I'm fairly convinced that all DW issues have started from worn ball joints, then after that other components start taking the stress.

 

[CloakedWillys]

Ball joints are a really common issue we see and as mentioned hard to diagnose. Chris at Edge is a good guy and should be able to help you find it.

Normally to check them I end up getting the front end off the ground and turning the tire from lock to lock by hand. I am looking for a change in resistance. It should be smooth and consistent. If you have a soft or hard spot that is a big sign of wear.

 

[GATORB8]

Was anything loose when they retorqued? I threw BJs at my DW, since it takes a bit for them to loosen up, it can fix it for a little while then it came right back.

If either of the TB bolts loosened up, it can oblong/egg out the holes in the factory brackets.

 

[melendez69]

Yes new track bar. Stock tie rod and draglink

Replacing these would require an alignment. Removing the tie rod & drag link makes the wheels go all floppy.

 

[GATORB8]

Replacing these would require an alignment. Removing the tie rod & drag link makes the wheels go all floppy.

Meh, you don't have to change the toe or drag settings.

 

[Remorseless]

Replacing these would require an alignment. Removing the tie rod & drag link makes the wheels go all floppy.

Alignments are pretty easy to do at home on an SFA Jeep. But, as long as you measure the center-to-center distance on the joints before you remove, you can usually get it pretty dang close when installing the new parts.

 

[GATORB8]

Alignments are pretty easy to do at home on an SFA Jeep. But, as long as you measure the center-to-center distance on the joints before you remove, you can usually get it pretty dang close when installing the new parts.

He's talking just BJs. Can do that without loosing the adjuster sleeves.

 

[Remorseless]

He's talking just BJs. Can do that without loosing the adjuster sleeves.

Thought he was saying replacing tie rod/drag link would require an alignment, unless I misread

 

[Plan d]

Was anything loose when they retorqued? I threw BJs at my DW, since it takes a bit for them to loosen up, it can fix it for a little while then it came right back.

If either of the TB bolts loosened up, it can oblong/egg out the holes in the factory brackets.

Everything was tight and showed no signs of wear. That’s what got me thinking about the ball joints.

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