Auxillary Battery Delete - Quick Visual Reference

[bmpcamry09]

I can't take credit for this, but I found this visual reference floating around online (I think the JT forum maybe) and it helped me knock my Auxillary battery delete out in no time, so wanted to post it up here. Use this as a reference if you want to truely eliminate all the wiring and everything else involved with the aux battery delete. The wires removed work great as the jumper wire for N1 to N3.

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[WillysMeow]

Great find, thanks for posting this! Did mine recently, pulled F42 fuse, removed ESS battery, wrapped up cable ends and put back in box...done. Wanted to remove the secondary battery positive and negative cables but couldn't really see where they were routed to and was short on time. This is now on my list.

The added 8 gauge wire between N3 and NT (Aux Battery ESS) is necessary because of the positive wires you removed, this completes the circuit as Jeep originally intended. Not sure what this wire is needed for?

Also, I'm assuming you unwrapped and the re-wrapped with battery cables with same type Jeep black cloth tape?

EDIT: Wonder if Jeep or some other company makes a nice plated stamped copper bit to bolt between N1 and N3 connections?

 

[bmpcamry09]

Great find, thanks for posting this! Did mine recently, pulled F42 fuse, removed ESS battery, wrapped up cable ends and put back in box...done. Wanted to remove the secondary battery positive and negative cables but couldn't really see where they were routed to and was short on time. This is now on my list.

The added 8 gauge wire between N3 and NT (Aux Battery ESS) is necessary because of the positive wires you removed, this completes the circuit as Jeep originally intended. Not sure what this wire is needed for?

Also, I'm assuming you unwrapped and the re-wrapped with battery cables with same type Jeep black cloth tape?

Yeah I think just one piece of that tape needed put back on. I was pretty deliberate and strategic with my razor blade cuts to minimize lost harness wrap. Everything else came out with the unneeded wires. I pulled the fuse box and battery tray and intake box completely out of the way and it made things way easier. The n1-n3 jumper was required to complete the positive side circuit that was removed. I tried without it and had no power to anything.

 

[AndySpill]

This diagram forms the work of @Jebiruph from 2018.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/3-6l-ess-dual-battery-consolidated-information.25377/

 

[FLTrailRider]

This will only work with the 12 volt aux battery correct? Not the e-torque 48 volt aux battery.

 

[bmpcamry09]

This will only work with the 12 volt aux battery correct? Not the e-torque 48 volt aux battery.

I’m not sure. I believe they are the same but not 100 percent sure.

 

[alphawolff]

I’m not sure. I believe they are the same but not 100 percent sure.

etorque does not have an aux battery

 

[FLTrailRider]

etorque does not have an aux battery

The E-Torque has a 48 volt aux battery under the vehicle in front of the rear axle.

I have an E-torque. Using the metal cloak skids they have an extra skid plate for it.

 

[bmpcamry09]

Ohhh yeah that’s right. Thank you

The E-Torque has a 48 volt aux battery under the vehicle in front of the rear axle.

I have an E-torque. Using the metal cloak skids they have an extra skid plate for it.

You can’t delete anything related to the eTorque system that I know of. It’s vital to the operation of the vehicle since it’s also your alternator.

 

[alphawolff]

The E-Torque has a 48 volt aux battery under the vehicle in front of the rear axle.

I have an E-torque. Using the metal cloak skids they have an extra skid plate for it.

It's not an aux battery. It's called a power pack unit. An aux battery is the shitty 200CCA in the wheel well that causes issues. The E-torque does not have this problem causing battery.

 

[vjn5988]

I’m curious about the auxiliary battery threads. I’ve got one in my 21 wrangler rubicon 2.0l turbo. What problems are being caused by it?

 

[bmpcamry09]

I’m curious about the auxiliary battery threads. I’ve got one in my 21 wrangler rubicon 2.0l turbo. What problems are being caused by it?

Generally, one battery wipes out the other, causing annoying warnings on the dash and having to spend money on two batteries versus one when replacing. The stop start function can still work just fine on the single large battery, if you set yours up like the diagram I put on post 1, then you can still have stop start. Tested and verified this on mine, it'll just use the main battery to do it.

 

[dgeist]

Generally, one battery wipes out the other, causing annoying warnings on the dash and having to spend money on two batteries versus one when replacing.

This is what happened to me. I bought my JLUD new off the lot after it had the fuel pump recall done and having sat in their garage for 6 months. They "charged it up" and it wouldn't hold a charge, so they replaced the main battery and I drove home (a 3-4 hour road trip to the next state). 24 hours later, both batteries were dead and wouldn't take a charge. The local dealer had to replace both under warranty since the dead secondary took it's new big brother down with it.

It's Idiocy to anyone who's ever worked much with DC battery systems: Never have cells with significantly different relative health and ESPECIALLY not different capacities connected in parallel without an active battery management system. I mentioned the design on a solar power forum and some people didn't believe jeep had actually wired it that way on purpose.

 

[vjn5988]

Now I’m worried. I’ve not had any issues other than: I replaced the aux this past winter after a few below freezing days when it wouldn’t start and when I noticed the stop/start not working regularly. Since putting in the new aux start/stop hasn’t worked at all, which I’m good with since I found it to be a nuisance.

 

[vjn5988]

Is the aux only for the stop/start function?

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