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DarkhorseJL

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Not new, by any means, to building my lighting and have ran numerous lights both rock lights (KC Cyclone V2 10 piece), light bar (KC Flex Era 20”), A-pillar (KC Flex Era 4) and upgraded to KC Flex Era 3 SAE fog lights (factory fog light switch)…. It was definitely easy with the central grounding point connecting to the fender under the hood BUT…

I just got the new KC Flex Era 1 license plate bracket that just came out <1 month now and will be installing this week - maybe tomorrow but definitely by this weekend (DM or respond if you want to see how nicely it turns out or how bright the lights are). I have been “sitting” on the FE1s for awhile considering running them to the A-pillars as secondary “alley lights” or making a license plate bracket via CNC until I got the email from my sponsor at KC saying they ran with my concept since they were also making them for Bronco as well. While my idea was to mount them to an adapter plate to add to any license plate relocation, they opted to design one that uses 90mm extension lugs for those with or without the license plate relocation. (The first pic was my design, from the side on a set of old wheels, the second pic with the beadlocks a d “KC” logo, is their finished product.)

so here’s the reason for the post… for those who have ran to the internal wiring for the aux switches (I know where the wiring is located), does any one have a suggestion for a good grounding location that is relatively close to the wires? I will be running them to Aux 4… that way I will not only be able to have flood lighting for the rear, use as added reverse lighting but not constant but more importantly (and for “fun”), to “deter tailgaters” from riding my ass.

Last pic isn’t just for attention but it’s to show that KC makes some really amazing lights. Also, I did something a little “extra”… my Aux 1 is my lightbar, Aux 2 is my A-pillars and Aux 3 is my 10 piece rock lights… originally, I was running Rigid Industries Pro DSS but at 6300lm per pair (ran spots and floods), it didn’t seem very bright compared to the 7,900lm off of 1 set of FE4s. Needless to say, I didn’t really opt to use the amber backlighting but by using an add-a-fuse and running it via the fuse for Aux 3, when I turn on my rock lights, the amber backlighting comes on and gives a subtle glow that has a nice contrast to the white LED headlights, high clearance fender DRLs and rock lights. I plan to wire the rear lights the same and run the amber wire to the Aux 3 wire during install so all the amber lights will switch on. Definitely looks unique and get compliments when I turn them on.

thanks for your help in advance everyone.

Jeep Wrangler JL Aux Switch Query IMG_4654


Jeep Wrangler JL Aux Switch Query IMG_4655


Jeep Wrangler JL Aux Switch Query IMG_9349


Jeep Wrangler JL Aux Switch Query IMG_4740
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jludave

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does any one have a suggestion for a good grounding location that is relatively close to the wires?
There should be 3 grounding studs near where the front door harness connects in the footwell area. They may be hidden under the plastic panel, I haven’t looked in a while.

Jeep Wrangler JL Aux Switch Query 1714428135281-2a
 
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Terrymo

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Yes three grounding studs under the passenger side kick panel one of which is unused. Also a similar grounding stud under the drivers side trim panel in the rear cargo area. There may be one in the rear cargo area under the passenger side trim panel, then you could route your wires along the existing wiring, through the tailgate and out to the passenger side trim.
Jeep Wrangler JL Aux Switch Query IMG_1083
 
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DarkhorseJL

DarkhorseJL

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Sounds like you’ve done something similar @Terrymo lol. It’s been awhile but I remember coming across this thanks to @[Banned Site]. ONLY problem is that the G-Codes don’t show specific locations only generalized.

Jeep Wrangler JL Aux Switch Query IMG_4768
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