Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[Wa-stinggray]

Not redundant at all, as I don't think the 5-inch system has been discussed much. While I don't know for sure, I do believe that if it's using UConnect, it's still checking for the stock speaker impedance and will likely need the resistors to "trick" the radio into sending a signal. The 5-inch does have an amp, it's just built into the radio (like the 7-inch system). Only the 8.4 utilizes an external amp.

Your thinking is very close. You probably wouldn't want to tie your amps back to the other side of the harness. I'd strongly recommend running your own speaker wires from the amp to the new speakers. The stock wires are very thin and they split (kick panel/dash tweeter), and depending on how much power your pushing through your amp, you won't want to limit the signal you're sending to the speakers. If your speakers are separates (highly recommended) then you'll likely want to use the provided crossover, which isn't possible using the stock wires behind the radio. Hope that makes sense!

Is there any reason to utilize the T harness if I’m using the fix 86 and running my own speaker wire?

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[Sting_NC_USA]

Is there any reason to utilize the T harness if I’m using the fix 86 and running my own speaker wire?

Technically no, though having the harness allows you to tap into the T-harness wiring instead of the stock/OEM wiring. It's really your call. I opted to tap the stock radio wires, but others choose to spend the money on the harness to preserve the stock wiring. Not sure how a warranty issue would be addressed if stock/OEM wires are tapped, so use your judgement in choosing what's right for you. Good luck!

 

[Wa-stinggray]

Technically no, though having the harness allows you to tap into the T-harness wiring instead of the stock/OEM wiring. It's really your call. I opted to tap the stock radio wires, but others choose to spend the money on the harness to preserve the stock wiring. Not sure how a warranty issue would be addressed if stock/OEM wires are tapped, so use your judgement in choosing what's right for you. Good luck!

One more question (for now)

I have the fix 86 coming tomorrow and I can’t find what is needed online for the install and no videos. I’m doing 4 gauge from the battery back. Do you just put in a 12v distribution block and run like 12? gauge to the fix 86? I’m guessing it’s just power/ground and then splice into rear channels for sub?

For now I’m just doing a mono amp for the sub, later on I will change to a 5 channel amp and wire to the other speakers also.

Thanks again!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

One more question (for now)

I have the fix 86 coming tomorrow and I can’t find what is needed online for the install and no videos. I’m doing 4 gauge from the battery back. Do you just put in a 12v distribution block and run like 12? gauge to the fix 86? I’m guessing it’s just power/ground and then splice into rear channels for sub?

For now I’m just doing a mono amp for the sub, later on I will change to a 5 channel amp and wire to the other speakers also.

Thanks again!

You'll need a constant 12v power source (thin gauge), Remote 12v power source and a ground wire. And of course, the high-level input wires coming from your radio. You'll also need a set of RCA cables for each srereo amp channel, up to three stereo RCA's (front, rear and sub options are available).

Good luck with your installation!

 

[trith72]

Hey guys I have a question that i need some clarification on. I have a 2018 Rubi JLU 4door with the Uconnect 8.4 system and the factory addon subwoofer on the rear passenger cargo area. I love the system...except for that sub...it's pretty much garbage. What I would like to do is take that thing out of the equation in the simplest way possible and put in a single JL 12 in a box behind the passenger seat. I would probably go with a JL amp as well. My question is, can i just buy a LC2i and tap into the rear speaker lines at the B Pillar, then run from that to the amp, then to the new sub? How hard is it to disable the factory sub? I don't mind it being there, i just don't want it trying to do anything because it sounds so lackluster. I intend the leave everything else stock, except for adding some real bass to the system with an aftermarket sub and amp in the cargo area.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Hey guys I have a question that i need some clarification on. I have a 2018 Rubi JLU 4door with the Uconnect 8.4 system and the factory addon subwoofer on the rear passenger cargo area. I love the system...except for that sub...it's pretty much garbage. What I would like to do is take that thing out of the equation in the simplest way possible and put in a single JL 12 in a box behind the passenger seat. I would probably go with a JL amp as well. My question is, can i just buy a LC2i and tap into the rear speaker lines at the B Pillar, then run from that to the amp, then to the new sub? How hard is it to disable the factory sub? I don't mind it being there, i just don't want it trying to do anything because it sounds so lackluster. I intend the leave everything else stock, except for adding some real bass to the system with an aftermarket sub and amp in the cargo area.

You got it correct, all you need is something like the LC2i that's tapped into the B-Pillar wires. While I don't have the stock sub, I would think that all you'd need to do is unplug it at the speaker. UConnect may turn than channel off, but you'll be pulling your signal from the rear channels anyway. If I'm wrong, please let me know and I'll update this post so that it doesn't steer anyone (else) down the wrong path. Best of luck!

 

[trith72]

Here's another quick question. I have the premium Alpine 8.4 system currently. I know that if you do the LOC and new speakers you have to use load resistors to trick the head unit to turn those channels on, but if I buy a PAC AP4-CH21 and grab the signal pre-amp, shouldn't need to worry about the load resistors anymore correct?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Here's another quick question. I have the premium Alpine 8.4 system currently. I know that if you do the LOC and new speakers you have to use load resistors to trick the head unit to turn those channels on, but if I buy a PAC AP4-CH21 and grab the signal pre-amp, shouldn't need to worry about the load resistors anymore correct?

I don't believe you'll be able to use the pre-amp signal, but can't verify since I'm using the non-alpine version.

My best guess, and that's all this is, would be that the pre-amp signal is encoded and un-usable.

 

[trith72]

I don't believe you'll be able to use the pre-amp signal, but can't verify since I'm using the non-alpine version.

My best guess, and that's all this is, would be that the pre-amp signal is encoded and un-usable.

Not when you use the PAC plugins. They are specifcally made for the alpine aftermarket head unit and they T connect in between the factory amp and the head unit. They are unique to each manufacturer so even if encoded they are able to reduce the signal to full range pure 5volt feed to your dsp or amp. I’m just hoping I won’t still have to use ohm loaders.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Not when you use the PAC plugins. They are specifcally made for the alpine aftermarket head unit and they T connect in between the factory amp and the head unit. They are unique to each manufacturer so even if encoded they are able to reduce the signal to full range pure 5volt feed to your dsp or amp. I’m just hoping I won’t still have to use ohm loaders.

That awesome, please respond here to share if it worked or not. Just know that if you do have to use the resistors, it's a very simple process. I'm just not sure if it's the amp that conducts the Ohm test, or if it's the radio that does. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[Wa-stinggray]

Two questions for you guru’s.

1. Ran out of time so for now I just have my sub hooked up on my 5 channel amp and the fix 86. I only grabbed one rear speaker channel to get signal for the sub. Reading directions for fix 86, it sounds like I should grab the left and right. It also mentioned wiring them In parallel. How did most of you guys connect yours?

Sound deadening..... what are key areas to hit that you found? So far it sounds like the soundbar has the most rattles but I didn’t want to piss off neighbors while I found it.

Side note for anyone. Only one of the wires on the lighter has power FYI . Pretty sure it had pink on it but didn’t write it down.

The JL stealth box is way louder than I was thinking it would be. I once loved huge stereo’s.... now I must be old. This thing is pretty crazy for 1 10” sub. Looks great and was the easiest part of the day.

I have 3.5” hertz coax installed right now. But have some 5 1/4”separates I will eventually install and power via the amp. Move the 3.5”’s to the sound bar. Hook it all into the amp and fix 86. But this install took longer than it should have for me so far.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Two questions for you guru’s.

1. Ran out of time so for now I just have my sub hooked up on my 5 channel amp and the fix 86. I only grabbed one rear speaker channel to get signal for the sub. Reading directions for fix 86, it sounds like I should grab the left and right. It also mentioned wiring them In parallel. How did most of you guys connect yours?

Sound deadening..... what are key areas to hit that you found? So far it sounds like the soundbar has the most rattles but I didn’t want to piss off neighbors while I found it.

Having the non-alpine system, I fed the Front Left and Front Right stock signal into the 1/2 plug of the Fix86. Similarly, the Rear Left and Rear Right stock signal goes into the 5/6 plug of the Fix86. The RCA's from the Fix86 go to the input of my main amp (VXi Series) and I feed my Sub's amp from the pass-through RCA's of my main amp. This lets me use the VXi's built in DSP to control the signal that's feeding the sub, too.

As for sound deadening, I only deadened the Sound bar (creating as close to a sealed environment as I could) and the inside of the stock Speaker Pods in the kick panel area.

 

[Jeffmiller32]

Very informative post. I have the PAC amp pro from my Ram that had the alpine system. Wondering if it will work on the 7” without the alpine system. Right now just looking at adding an mono amp and a sub. I have a 4 channel from my Ram as well. Just installing with the resistors is a little outside my install skill set.

Thanks!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Very informative post. I have the PAC amp pro from my Ram that had the alpine system. Wondering if it will work on the 7” without the alpine system. Right now just looking at adding an mono amp and a sub. I have a 4 channel from my Ram as well. Just installing with the resistors is a little outside my install skill set.

Thanks!

Jeff, I'd give PAC a call. They are actually quite good with customer service and support. If you are advised that the resistors are needed, it's a really, really simple thing. All your really doing with the resistors is soldering a single resistor between the positive and negative input wire for each channel. If you do speak with PAC, please post your response here.

Pre-solder picture:

 

[Jeffmiller32]

Jeff, I'd give PAC a call. They are actually quite good with customer service and support. If you are advised that the resistors are needed, it's a really, really simple thing. All your really doing with the resistors is soldering a single resistor between the positive and negative input wire for each channel. If you do speak with PAC, please post your response here.

Pre-solder picture:

Thanks for the quick response.
I would imagine that if I installed the 4 channel I would need resistors. On my previous Ram they did have some sort of resistor hooked into the high frequency wiring into my amp. It’s an audio control 4 channel so it’s basically an amp with a built in LC7i to help with bass roll off and whatnot. I do have a JL Fix86 installed in my mustang GT. My buddy that is well more advanced than I am in car audio said that’s unnecessary for the mustangs since they have flat EQs to start. So I could take the fix out of the mustang and install it in the Jeep. But I would still imagine I would need the resistors even with the fix.

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