Sting_NC_USA
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Michael
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2018
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- 27
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- 1,026
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- Location
- Greensboro, NC
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Jeep Wrangler JL Unlimited Rubicon
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- #1,141
FYI, you really need to move that strap to a different location. The sub will hit it, which can seriously distort the bass and potentially damage the woofer.Hello ya'll...first time Jeep owner here. Purchased a 2021 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon..2.0L, Alpine Premium 8.4 system, Sky One-Touch and some other goodies. I too have read all 76 pages like many of you....actually a few sections multiple times lol. Much love to all the generous folks who've posted and shared information prior. I figured I'd do my part and post a bit for future help/guidance.
Now this is only for an aftermarket amp/subwoofer install. I may go for the full speaker upgrade in the future....one step at a time! I already had an amp/sub from the 2015 Tahoe we sold. Nothing special.....just a Memphis Srx1.250 and 12in Memphis sub in a ported box. I won't go into major detail as you can grab those tid-bits from others prior. Here are the high-lights:
1. I purchased this amp kit: TOPSTRONGGEAR 4 Gauge Amp Kit True 4 AWG Amplifier Installation Wiring Amp Kit Install Cables. As mentioned below 17ft is a bit short for the power run....
2 Ran my 17ft (20ft would have given me more wiggle room) of 4g through the removable plastic cover on the firewall driver side. I just drilled a hole barely big enough for the wire to fit through.
3. For my remote turn on for the amp. Instead of running a wire from the front 12v cigarette lighter plug on the front dash I tapped into the rear one. Now in stock form it's set to always be on. You can change this with the fuses in the power distribution center under the hood. You can make it only powered with accessory on or running. This made for a 3-5ft run instead of much more and easier to get to by far!
4. As for the LOC....I went with Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series. It's working great! I did ground it, but decided to not use it for the remote amp turn on.
5. As suggested by many others in prior posts I tapped into the audio cables at the base/back of the passenger seat. You can easily see the grouping of wires heading up when you pull off the little panel that you would pop off to remove the rear passenger door. As a reminder here are the wires you need to tap into:
45 Grey/Dark Blue RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (+) PREMIUM RADIO
49 Grey/Orange RIGHT REAR SPEAKER (-) PREMIUM RADIO
48 Dark Green/Dark Blue LEFT REAR SPEAKER (+) PREMIUM RADIO
52 Dark Green/Orange LEFT REAR SPEAKER (-) PREMIUM RADIO
I used the Scotchlok 905 RED Quick splice wire Connectors 22-18 AWG connectors to do the tap...worked great!.
6. I grounded my amp to the same place the rear cigarette lighter plug is grounded. I'll include a picture of that below.
7. I left the factory sub installed/running. They both seem to be "in-sync".....no issues that I can hear!.
Drive side back rear panel removed. You can see in the center my 4g grounding wire.
A close up shot of the amp grounding wire.
The finished product. Don't laugh at the car seats (we'll one is temporary removed)!.....we have 2 toddlers. They enjoy music, but we obviously have to keep the gain/bass turned down. I also strapped the box down to hopefully keep it from turning into projectile in the event of a crash. You can't see it but I have some rubber offsets I made on the ends/edges of the woofer to keep the strap from coming in contact with it.
You could add some hardware to the sides of the box that your strap would connect to.
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