Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[ToPar9]

I did. And afterwards I stuck a down firing sub in. For about $500 it really made a big difference. Good enough that I think all I will do going forward is put a different head unit in at some point. Even without it, it sounds pretty good even with the top down on interstate.

As of today, that is my price range. Even though I shouldn't, I will probably continue on and at a minimum do something similar to that setup.
I miss having a little extra when it comes to the radio side of vehicles.

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[MikelMD]

well, believe me - It scares me every time I go into the garage. The plus side, I will be sanding the dashboard trim w 600lb grit and spray painting it PE4 or Punk'n metallic while I have the parts out! That is my - silver lining

 

[ToPar9]

well, believe me - It scares me every time I go into the garage. The plus side, I will be sanding the dashboard trim w 600lb grit and spray painting it PE4 or Punk'n metallic while I have the parts out! That is my - silver lining

Gotta find the good in everything! I'd report mine stolen, buy a new one, and start over. Not a chance I'd put everything back the way I disassembled it.

 

[Biconia]

just finished install and i have crazy HISS noice adjusting the GAIN and FREQ got almost away the HISS still need to figure out for more gains on my components speakers
also the Kicker Down Firing 12" sub bumps really hard going to Tone adjusting tomorrow hope i can get that HISS out 100%

PS : Previous speakers are : Kicker KS Series 4" ( have 2 sets 4 piece front and rear ) , Kicker Upgrade Speakers for Dart front and rear 4 piece as well

 

[ToPar9]

just finished install and i have crazy HISS noice adjusting the GAIN and FREQ got almost away the HISS still need to figure out for more gains on my components speakers
also the Kicker Down Firing 12" sub bumps really hard going to Tone adjusting tomorrow hope i can get that HISS out 100%

PS : Previous speakers are : Kicker KS Series 4" ( have 2 sets 4 piece front and rear ) , Kicker Upgrade Speakers for Dart front and rear 4 piece as well

Awesome! Hopefully you knock out that hiss and enjoy the weekend.

 

[MikelMD]

So, I have installed the drivers side JL Audio C2650 speakers with the Metra 6.5" POD. I am now trying to figure out where can I place the Passenger side JL Audio Crossover and at the same time figure out where will the PAC-CH41 R.2 get placed. I get the feeling that I need to have access to it, for firmware updates - however the last update was almost 2 years ago, so... Here are my Q? where did you install the PAC and what do I do with the 2A Remote Turn On Output? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

So, the crossover boxes can usually mount on the pods themselves, or anywhere in the vicinity. I've had luck putting them either on the outside of the pods (Heavy Duty Velcro) or in the lower kick area behind the foot panels on each side of the vehicle. Just make sure they're secure.

The PAC, for the record, won't fit behind the radio. I have had success securing it in between the glove box lever/mechanism and the outer portion of the radio console. Just keep it away from the heater core and you should be fine.

The remote wire is simply to trigger a device (like an aftermarket radio or amp) letting it know the key is on. It's really not powerful enough to run stuff, but you may need it to trigger your amp.

Glad to see all the progress!

 

[MikelMD]

Thanks Michael! Well, I was connecting the radio to the new PAC connector and it will not go in! Yea, I have it the right way. It will it budge I looked at the connections and it all looks ok.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Did you open the clamp first? You have to unlock it before it can be inserted. I can't tell from the picture, but I'd guess that's the issue.

 

[MikelMD]

Sad to say, it is open.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Sometimes, the latch on the PAC doesn't open as wide as it needs to. There's a notch on the plug that needs to point further downward.

In the picture below, for example, the latch isn't open wide enough. If the wires are pushed to the side, the latch will open wider, and that notch will then be able to grab the rail and allow the plug to be pulled in.

The base of the latch should likely be at, or close to a 90-degee angle with the plug.

You've got this!

 

[ToPar9]

Is 6.5" front components with 6.5" components in the bar off of a 4-channel the most popular setup these days, skipping 3's in the dash?
If you tie in the 3's in the dash, 6-channel amp, or run them in parallel with coax 6.5's at the knee?
I'd like to run 4-6.5's and 2-3's.
Sub being run off a mono amp.
Thoughts?
Ideas?
All feedback welcome, good/bad/indifferent.
And, yes, I do understand, it's a personal preference, the sound you're looking for, etc....
I am just looking for a few different setup options.
Thanks!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

The 6.5' separates up front and back are somewhat the norm, but the setup you describe is a step up.

Focal and others produce three-way separates that would be optimal in smoothing out the sound curve.

The easiest way to run them would be off of a strong 4-channel amp that feeds the speaker manufacturer's crossover, but the optimal way would be to toss the crossovers and send a discrete channel to each component using an amp with built-in Crossovers/EQ's/Timing Control.

I'm running something similar to that, but only using two-way separates in the front and rear. JL Audio 800/8Vxi for the fronts and rears, with a 750/1 to my 10W7.

My vote would be to go for it!

 

[Gonz]

Is 6.5" front components with 6.5" components in the bar off of a 4-channel the most popular setup these days, skipping 3's in the dash?
If you tie in the 3's in the dash, 6-channel amp, or run them in parallel with coax 6.5's at the knee?
I'd like to run 4-6.5's and 2-3's.
Thoughts?
Ideas?
All feedback welcome, good/bad/indifferent.
And, yes, I do understand, it's a personal preference, the sound you're looking for, etc....
I am just looking for a few different setup options.
Thanks!

I'm running the Focal 6.5" 2-way components in my soundbar, then the Focal 6.5" 3-way components up front, with the 6.5", 3", 1" on each side. FYI, the 3" Focal needs a bracket fabricated somehow to fit the dash 3.5" speaker location. I'm running a 5-channel amp, 4x75 for the soundbar and up front speakers, running strait into the provided crossover.

 

[ToPar9]

The 6.5' separates up front and back are somewhat the norm, but the setup you describe is a step up.

Focal and others produce three-way separates that would be optimal in smoothing out the sound curve.

The easiest way to run them would be off of a strong 4-channel amp that feeds the speaker manufacturer's crossover, but the optimal way would be to toss the crossovers and send a discrete channel to each component using an amp with built-in Crossovers/EQ's/Timing Control.

I'm running something similar to that, but only using two-way separates in the front and rear. JL Audio 800/8Vxi for the fronts and rears, with a 750/1 to my 10W7.

My vote would be to go for it!

Appreciate the vote of confidence! I am looking more for a balanced sound, something enjoyable. I don't want everyone in my neighborhood to hate me. Plus I am old, they would then know I am going through the midlife crisis that I am currently going through. haha
I don't want to miss out on the mid's by only running 6.5s and 1s. I have been out of the game for a looooong time. Back when Infinity speakers were the jam.

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