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Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

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Sting_NC_USA

Sting_NC_USA

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it does the same thing... well i guess my only options are get another PAC or go with resistor mode
for old school mode do i need different harness and LC7i ?

Sorry, was hoping that would do it. I'd call PAC on Monday. If you go the resistor route, you'll need a sound processor like the JL Fix86 or equivalent. The LC2i really only works for a sub only upgrade on our Jeeps.

Hoping PAC can diagnose the issue. Good luck, and keep us posted.

PS: Make sure the tone controls on your radio are flat. Also, if the radio has noise cancelling, see if it can be disabled.

thanks again
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thanks for all the help here !
please keep me updated as well what they says from PAC.. now i miss my old Alpine kit... :(
and i don't have Active Noice Cancelling system on my JL
thanks again !
 

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With doors/top off season getting closer I am starting to plan my stereo upgrades. I have the 7in non-Alpine system and I think I am going to keep the stock HU for now. It's far from perfect, but all other solutions are either very expensive and/or require too many workarounds to get everything working.

Phase 1: Add an amp and DSP to the stock system. (I have an old 10in RF sub in a box I'll throw in the back as well.)
My plan right now is to go with the AP4-CH41 and add the Toslink output. This will run to a DSP/Amp like the JL VX1000/5i.

My questions:
1.) I have seen this asked before, but cannot find an answer. Are there wires for each of the (8) speakers behind the radio or just (4)?

2.) If I use Toslink, will the volume for the stock radio still work or will I have to use something like the DRC-205?

3.) Will I also have to use the bass knob that comes with the AP4-CH41?

4.) In order to tie into the factory speaker wiring without splicing, do I need the APH-CH01?

I have not been involved in mobile audio since the early 2000s, a lot has changed.
 

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With doors/top off season getting closer I am starting to plan my stereo upgrades. I have the 7in non-Alpine system and I think I am going to keep the stock HU for now. It's far from perfect, but all other solutions are either very expensive and/or require too many workarounds to get everything working.

Phase 1: Add an amp and DSP to the stock system. (I have an old 10in RF sub in a box I'll throw in the back as well.)
My plan right now is to go with the AP4-CH41 and add the Toslink output. This will run to a DSP/Amp like the JL VX1000/5i.

My questions:
1.) I have seen this asked before, but cannot find an answer. Are there wires for each of the (8) speakers behind the radio or just (4)?

2.) If I use Toslink, will the volume for the stock radio still work or will I have to use something like the DRC-205?

3.) Will I also have to use the bass knob that comes with the AP4-CH41?

4.) In order to tie into the factory speaker wiring without splicing, do I need the APH-CH01?

I have not been involved in mobile audio since the early 2000s, a lot has changed.
Your questions:
1.) I have seen this asked before, but cannot find an answer. Are there wires for each of the (8) speakers behind the radio or just (4)?
there is 8 speaker wires

2.) If I use Toslink, will the volume for the stock radio still work or will I have to use something like the DRC-205?
yes stock radio volume will work

3.) Will I also have to use the bass knob that comes with the AP4-CH41?
yes it come with bass knob , you can adjust from bass knob or stock Head unit

4.) In order to tie into the factory speaker wiring without splicing, do I need the APH-CH01?
APH-CH01 is for Alpine equipped unit
you need to get AP4-CH41R2 version don't get confuse with the older model make sure you get the R2


Good Luck mate :)
 

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Your questions:
1.) I have seen this asked before, but cannot find an answer. Are there wires for each of the (8) speakers behind the radio or just (4)?
there is 8 speaker wires
8 wires as in +/- for each of the 8 speakers or 4 pairs that go to FL/FR/RL/RR?


2.) If I use Toslink, will the volume for the stock radio still work or will I have to use something like the DRC-205?
yes stock radio volume will work

3.) Will I also have to use the bass knob that comes with the AP4-CH41?
yes it come with bass knob , you can adjust from bass knob or stock Head unit
But do I have to use it?


4.) In order to tie into the factory speaker wiring without splicing, do I need the APH-CH01?
APH-CH01 is for Alpine equipped unit
you need to get AP4-CH41R2 version don't get confuse with the older model make sure you get the R2
So the AP4-CH41R2 comes with everything needed to tie into the stock speaker wires?


Good Luck mate :)
Thanks, but I still have a couple of follow up questions. I put them in red.
 

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Thanks, but I still have a couple of follow up questions. I put them in red.
Your questions:
1.) I have seen this asked before, but cannot find an answer. Are there wires for each of the (8) speakers behind the radio or just (4)?
there is 8 speaker wires
8 wires as in +/- for each of the 8 speakers or 4 pairs that go to FL/FR/RL/RR?
yes there is detailed diagram at First page on this thread


2.) If I use Toslink, will the volume for the stock radio still work or will I have to use something like the DRC-205?
yes stock radio volume will work

3.) Will I also have to use the bass knob that comes with the AP4-CH41?
yes it come with bass knob , you can adjust from bass knob or stock Head unit
But do I have to use it?
it have to be connected to PAC unit m adjust to desire level and forget it :)


4.) In order to tie into the factory speaker wiring without splicing, do I need the APH-CH01?
APH-CH01 is for Alpine equipped unit
you need to get AP4-CH41R2 version don't get confuse with the older model make sure you get the R2
So the AP4-CH41R2 comes with everything needed to tie into the stock speaker wires?

yes come with everything to hookup speaker wires you dont have to split from stock harness

i just finished my audio system with PAC unit its easy to install but i am having issues with the PAC prob its me only i seen other members has great result with PAC....

i might going with JL Fix-86 unit after couple test more with PAC
 

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Anyone recommend amp instal kit and rca brands?
 
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Great info here: https://soundcertified.com/good-amp-wiring-kit-guide/

Best recommendation is to figure out where you want to install your amp so can estimate how much wire and RCA cable, ensuring you don't overdo the length of the RCA cables (simply because they're bulky and harder to hide.
Would 4 AWG be enough to power both a JL 1000/1 and a 400/1 JL amp?

Both are class D and I would use a splitter for the power wire and then ground each an individually.

Was thinking of getting the NVX XKIT42 since it’s 100% copper
 
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Should be fine with 4, though you may want to run 2, just in case you want to add other accessories later.
 

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Should be fine with 4, though you may want to run 2, just in case you want to add other accessories later.
Last question and then I’m all set (hopefully).

with the PAC 141 R2, do you need the APH-CH01 harnesses? I have the 7” head unit and don’t want to cut anything.

also the Toslink APA-TOS1 I’ll be using to run the 4 channel, want to make sure the sound is digital to the JL amp. Will the rca pre-outs still be getting signal for the sub?
 
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Last question and then I’m all set (hopefully).

with the PAC 141 R2, do you need the APH-CH01 harnesses? I have the 7” head unit and don’t want to cut anything.

also the Toslink APA-TOS1 I’ll be using to run the 4 channel, want to make sure the sound is digital to the JL amp. Will the rca pre-outs still be getting signal for the sub?
To be sure, it's the AP4-CH41 (R.2) that you'll want. It comes with everything you need, and no tapping of wires is necessary.

As for the Toslink, I'm just not sure I see the benefits of adding that here. Your getting about as clean of a signal as you'll get from a mediocre head unit by using the PAC.

I do think the Fix86 does a better job with the conversion, and it can be used with the PAC.

The Toslink kIt probably would be better than using just the PAC, but I can't imagine it would be noticeable. I could definitely be wrong.

Because of the above opinion, I've never installed the Toslink module. The recommendation would be to download their manual to see if it disables the RCA's.

Sorry I couldn't offer more there.
 

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I got the Toslink for my PAC, that I'm installing tomorrow. However, I saw a video on the YouTube, maybe it was CarStereoChick, where she was saying they ran both the Toslink as well as the RCA's. Something about the Toslink being cleaner, but the RCA's being a strong signal, and they had the option to use one or the other somehow. I don't really know the details, I just recall seeing it in one of the videos.
 

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To be sure, it's the AP4-CH41 (R.2) that you'll want. It comes with everything you need, and no tapping of wires is necessary.

As for the Toslink, I'm just not sure I see the benefits of adding that here. Your getting about as clean of a signal as you'll get from a mediocre head unit by using the PAC.

I do think the Fix86 does a better job with the conversion, and it can be used with the PAC.

The Toslink kIt probably would be better than using just the PAC, but I can't imagine it would be noticeable. I could definitely be wrong.

Because of the above opinion, I've never installed the Toslink module. The recommendation would be to download their manual to see if it disables the RCA's.

Sorry I couldn't offer more there.
So after researching Amps that would utilize the Toslink and optical, I don’t see the value either. $930 plus the $60 harness when JL makes some good 4 Channel amps for $100’s less.

So bypassing this option and will run RCA’s.

JL Audio 10w7 with JL’s HO box
JL Audio 1000/1 Mono amp
JL Audio 4 channel amp
JL Audio C2-650 Components front and sound bar

ordered everything today - no problems foreseen except how to “tap into” the cigarette outlet for the remote wire. Just splice into it or is there something else to do here?

Then run a remote from one amp to the other or split that at the 12 v cig outlet?
 

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please keep us updated how your PAC unit ends with you

thanks
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