Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

JeepKindaGuy

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1 - From your original post my take away of what I assume to be your best recommendations -upgrading the dash tweeters to 3.5", upgrading(with the new box) the speakers in the knee/kick area to 6.5", upgrading the tweeters in the bar to 3.5" and upgrading the larger speakers in the bar to their same size(4" or 4.5"??) would be the smartest move since the bar is mainly filler?

2 - Would having coaxial speakers for the knee/kicker speakers be overkill in the high's with the upgraded tweeters in the dash? If so, I am assuming component speakers for the knee/kick area?

3 - Would having coaxial speakers for the bar's larger speakers be overkill in the high's with the upgraded tweeters in the bar? If so, I am assuming component speakers for the larger bar speakers?

4 - I understand that one would have to add 300 or 600hz(which is better??) bass blockers to the upgraded dash tweeters, does one have to do the same to the upgraded bar tweeters?

This setup would be for those who don't want to add an amp or sub.



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Goosed

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1 - From your original post my take away of what I assume to be your best recommendations -upgrading the dash tweeters to 3.5", upgrading(with the new box) the speakers in the knee/kick area to 6.5", upgrading the tweeters in the bar to 3.5" and upgrading the larger speakers in the bar to their same size(4" or 4.5"??) would be the smartest move since the bar is mainly filler?

2 - Would having coaxial speakers for the knee/kicker speakers be overkill in the high's with the upgraded tweeters in the dash? If so, I am assuming component speakers for the knee/kick area?

3 - Would having coaxial speakers for the bar's larger speakers be overkill in the high's with the upgraded tweeters in the bar? If so, I am assuming component speakers for the larger bar speakers?

4 - I understand that one would have to add 300 or 600hz(which is better??) bass blockers to the upgraded dash tweeters, does one have to do the same to the upgraded bar tweeters?

This setup would be for those who don't want to add an amp or sub.
Depending on your budget I think the best route would be to do a 3 way front component system like the Focal setup. Will come with a crossover to handle the frequencies to the correct channel.

Or grab the speakers (3.5” for dash and 6.5 for kick panel) and get a JL amp with built in DSP. The amp and integration software will help you tune the frequencies to each speaker and time alignment.

If you aren’t adding an amp, maybe the way to go would be to source the speakers and add the resistors to filter out low end frequencies to the dash speakers and smaller speakers in the sound bar.
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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1 - From your original post my take away of what I assume to be your best recommendations -upgrading the dash tweeters to 3.5", upgrading(with the new box) the speakers in the knee/kick area to 6.5", upgrading the tweeters in the bar to 3.5" and upgrading the larger speakers in the bar to their same size(4" or 4.5"??) would be the smartest move since the bar is mainly filler?

2 - Would having coaxial speakers for the knee/kicker speakers be overkill in the high's with the upgraded tweeters in the dash? If so, I am assuming component speakers for the knee/kick area?

3 - Would having coaxial speakers for the bar's larger speakers be overkill in the high's with the upgraded tweeters in the bar? If so, I am assuming component speakers for the larger bar speakers?

4 - I understand that one would have to add 300 or 600hz(which is better??) bass blockers to the upgraded dash tweeters, does one have to do the same to the upgraded bar tweeters?

This setup would be for those who don't want to add an amp or sub.
While this thread is primarily focused on adding amplifiers, here are a few things to ponder:

Thoughts on Question #1: With no amplification, I can only recommend adding very efficient 3.5's in the dash and sound bar (Kicker, Infinity, etc).

Adding 3.5's in the upper dash, and also adding 6.5's in the kick panel pods, will absolutely require more power than the base model head unit can provide. This approach would also stress the upgraded Alpine setup as well. Each of these options would sound OK at low volume, though I believe you were looking for a bit more loudness (If memory serves).

Thoughts on Question #2: Coaxial speakers in the kick panels wouldn't be overkill since you wouldn't hear much of what the tweeters are putting out. Higher frequencies are highly directional, and since the kick panels point downward, even angled tweeters would struggle to provide adequate sound from down there. Further, a small portion of the stock stereo's signal would be taken by the tweeter, and with no amp in play, you'd want to reserve all the power you possibly could for your mid-range drivers.

As a general rule, you want to power speakers with a power source that provides anywhere from 75% of the speaker's RMS capability up to 150% (provides some extra overhead, so you're not stressing your amp). The stock radio's power output, at best, is in the teens for each channel, I believe. If that's not enough in the way of persuasion, there's an interesting concept tied the effects of under-powering speakers. An under-powered speaker can cause the speaker's output to be broadcast in a narrower (i.e. directional) projection. This can make the system sound hollow. These are the primary reasons most will recommend amplifying your signal if you want to extend beyond adding just the 3.5's.

Thoughts on Question #3: Adding coaxial speakers in the soundbar wouldn't be overkill, especially un-amplified.

Thoughts on Question #4: If you're buying component speakers, they will come with a cross-over. If you're sticking with coaxials, there's not enough power coming from the stock head unit to be concerned with, so I'd recommend running them full range. If you really want to add filters, you'll want to check the specs of your speakers first, since they all have different cross-over points.

I think I've shared this before, and I just can't sugarcoat it: outside of adding only the 3.5's, the work you're describing will yield marginal improvements at best. This is by no means a "slam," because taking the 3.5 only route will yield better sound than the stock setup, it just won't be much louder. I also don't want to assume anyone's preferences of what they want should be the same as mine, either. So, here's a few parting thoughts...

Closing this out:
  • Phase 1: Just try adding the 3.5's in the dash and soundbar to see how it sounds to you.
  • Phase 2 (Recommended): If you want more, add an entry-level amp (30-50 watts per channel) and 6.5 separates (sell the 3.5's on Craigslist/Facebook)
  • Phase 3: If, after Phase 2 you want more bass, either add a powered sub, or go all out and add a second amp and passive sub.
Regardless of how deep into this you wish to dive, post your results so others can learn from your experience.
 

robd1438

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Been following alot of these threads related to sound/speakers/amps as I want to try and get some additional clarity and "loudness" when driving naked. I have the 8.4 Alpine system and am starting with your phase 1 exactly. I have 2 sets of 3.5's arriving tomorrow and going to do the dash and sound bar (kicker KS and Kenwood Excelon). I'll see how that goes first. I was contemplating the metra pods with 6.5's for knees but seemed like a ton of work. I'll post back with results.
 

Kidcia

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The easiest remote wire access is the Cigarette Lighter/Power Adapter. I typically use a direct battery connection that's plugged into a basic auto relay, then tap the relay into the Cigarette Lighter to trigger power. Some amps don't actually need a remote wire, as they have a signal auto-sensing feature. You may want to check to see if your amp does that.

As for the engine noise, it's simply a grounding issue. You could try a ground loop isolator, which you can buy an most electronic stores, though that is more of a band-aid. Make sure your ground is connected to bare metal, not painted. Also check to see that your RCA cables are run as far away from your power and ground wires. They will, of course, meet at the amp, but they should not be run together if you are getting engine whine.

Hope that helps...
Where exactly would you recommend the grounding point be? I’m not new to wiring but I kinda just used one of the hooks mounting points and bolt in the cubby area. I never felt it was perfect but it worked for testing. I’ve been looking for a better place to ground.
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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Where exactly would you recommend the grounding point be? I’m not new to wiring but I kinda just used one of the hooks mounting points and bolt in the cubby area. I never felt it was perfect but it worked for testing. I’ve been looking for a better place to ground.
Our Jeeps have dedicated grounding posts at several points. Where's your amp installed?

This .PDF file shows the Jeep's currently used grounding points, but there's several in the lower kick panel area, as well as in the rear on the side of the passenger seats. They're basically little posts with silver fasteners.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/GROUND-LOCATION-LAYOUT.pdf
 

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Aftermarket Amplifier and Audio install

So i just completed the install of my aftermarket audio uprade using the factory 5” uconnect radio in my Wrangler JL and it sounds amazing. The bass even lifts my wipers. I have to say thanks to the orginal thread post for some very helpful info.


Here is a list of things i used to complete the install successfully.

- Axxess ax-dsp-ch5 harness ( this is so I wouldn’t have to cut into the factory harness and i can also go back to the factory setup plug and play)

- four 47ohm 5w ceramic resistors

- speedwire 9 conductor 18awg cable (used from radio side of the harness to the line out converter and used from the speaker side of the harness to the four channel amplifier)

- 0 guage Power and Ground cables ( went thru the passengers grommet under the glove box to the battery)

- 3000 Watts RMS @ 1ohm amp for Sub

- 400 Watts RMS @ 4ohm amp the speakers

- AudioControl LC7i line out coverter and ACR1 remote control


Amp and LOC are placed in the rear floor storage bin.
Also planning to add a audio battery in the rear to support thee system.

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What was needed to get to the passenger side grommet? I ran mine on the drivers side through the grommet near the brake booster.
 

Kidcia

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Our Jeeps have dedicated grounding posts at several points. Where's your amp installed?

This .PDF file shows the Jeep's currently used grounding points, but there's several in the lower kick panel area, as well as in the rear on the side of the passenger seats. They're basically little posts with silver fasteners.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/GROUND-LOCATION-LAYOUT.pdf
In the cargo cubby. Easiest place to conceal my amp and with my l7 on top there’s no getting to it without a key. Tried lifting the speaker with 2 people and couldn’t budge it a bit! I am wondering tho because I am going dual amps and want To run them under the seats when a cheaper bracket comes out.
 

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Thanks for the link btw. I just don’t know how sure I’d feel about using a connection with a vehicle system wired In.
 
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Thanks for the link btw. I just don’t know how sure I’d feel about using a connection with a vehicle system wired In.
I prefer to find an empty ground spot, too. The image simply points you to areas where the posts are. There's usually a few open ones in these areas.
 
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What was needed to get to the passenger side grommet? I ran mine on the drivers side through the grommet near the brake booster.
It's accessible from under the Jeep, just below the fuse box.

You would want to make two small cuts in the grommet, one at the 7:00 mark on the inside passenger foot well, and the other at 4:00 on the outside, being careful to only cut the gromet, and not the internal wiring. From there, push some fish tape through the two slots, attach the wire you're pulling, then carefully pull it back through.

I typically wrap the wire to the fish tape with electrical tape to smooth any edges that could catch.
 

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It's accessible from under the Jeep, just below the fuse box.

You would want to make two small cuts in the grommet, one at the 7:00 mark on the inside passenger foot well, and the other at 4:00 on the outside, being careful to only cut the gromet, and not the internal wiring. From there, push some fish tape through the two slots, attach the wire you're pulling, then carefully pull it back through.

I typically wrap the wire to the fish tape with electrical tape to smooth any edges that could catch.
What did you do to seal up the cuts you made? Or was it a perfect fit?
 
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What did you do to seal up the cuts you made? Or was it a perfect fit?
Small cuts, so the 4ga battery wire and my AUX Switch wiring is pretty well sealed. But, a bead of good quality silicone definitely wouldn't hurt.
 

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What was needed to get to the passenger side grommet? I ran mine on the drivers side through the grommet near the brake booster.
I punch a hole thru the gromet. The gromet is like double thick so it was not easy. I also sealed around the area where the cable goes thru on the inside and out.
 











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