Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

scuba264

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Hey Steve, welcome to the forum and the Jeep community!

That floor vent is pretty flexible. There's really not much holding it in place but a few body posts/pins. Depending on how you mount it, you can run the air above or below your amp. It's a bit of a pain to get to an underseat-mounted amp, so make sure to position it so you can access your controls from the back side of the passenger seat area, if possible.

Good luck with your install, and reach out if you need any support. This is a great group!
Appreciate the welcome! Thats a good point, maybe I can try to mount it in a way that its at least not blowing directly on the thing.

shouldn’t be an issue especially if class D or better since they run so cool. But a lot of people are installing the JL Audio amp rack to keep it up off the floor.
Thanks, yeah its a Class D. I saw that mount around, I have some scrap aluminum 90s laying around, seeing if I can put something together nice enough that would keep it off the floor. We'll see..



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scuba264

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Did anyone that installed Metra pods have any odd sound from their passenger side? I thought my speaker was maybe defective, it was making the strangest sound in bassy stuff. It was this weird buzzing/whistling/didgereedoo sound haha. Started thinking maybe it wasn't quite seated correctly, maybe I'd half tightened the screws and forgot and it was air buzzing out the sides.

When I pried it open I started poking around, pushing the frame of the speaker, looking for something causing a buzz. Found these two little pinholes in the pod itself, like the size of if you jabbed it with a dart. When I covered each with my finger the sound stopped. Are yours like that too or was this some manufacturing thing? I just grabbed some caulk and stuffed in there and seems all is well. Thats really strange, and it was VERY noticeable. Figure worth mentioning if anyone else ever notices that.

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Sting_NC_USA

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Did anyone that installed Metra pods have any odd sound from their passenger side? I thought my speaker was maybe defective, it was making the strangest sound in bassy stuff. It was this weird buzzing/whistling/didgereedoo sound haha. Started thinking maybe it wasn't quite seated correctly, maybe I'd half tightened the screws and forgot and it was air buzzing out the sides.

When I pried it open I started poking around, pushing the frame of the speaker, looking for something causing a buzz. Found these two little pinholes in the pod itself, like the size of if you jabbed it with a dart. When I covered each with my finger the sound stopped. Are yours like that too or was this some manufacturing thing? I just grabbed some caulk and stuffed in there and seems all is well. Thats really strange, and it was VERY noticeable. Figure worth mentioning if anyone else ever notices that.
Actually no, haven't seen that yet. Silicone or hot glue, preferably from the inside, would work well, just in case the caulk on the outside gives out in the heat. That's really bizarre, and KUDOS for the excellent relay of the sound effect!! ;)
 

scuba264

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Actually no, haven't seen that yet. Silicone or hot glue, preferably from the inside, would work well, just in case the caulk on the outside gives out in the heat. That's really bizarre, and KUDOS for the excellent relay of the sound effect!! ;)
I'm praying that holds, I really don't want to go through that process again to get them back out lol
 

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Did anyone that installed Metra pods have any odd sound from their passenger side?
No, didn’t notice anything like that and no abnormal noises. Hope your fix works.
 
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I'm praying that holds, I really don't want to go through that process again to get them back out lol
Installed a set today, and those holes are simply for different shaped speaker mounts. I just put a little silicone in them and added a small screw for each. You should be fine!
 
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Sting_NC_USA

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UPDATE: The main/original post has been updated with instructions and pictures related to removing/replacing the Kick Panel Speaker Pods, emphasizing the point that the entire dash does not need to be removed when upgrading your system. There is simply no reason, especially with these updated tips, that you ever have to fully dismantle the dash, at least not for stereo installation and speaker upgrades.

Hope this helps those who haven't yet taken the plunge!
 

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UPDATE: The main/original post has been updated with instructions and pictures related to removing/replacing the Kick Panel Speaker Pods, emphasizing the point that the entire dash does not need to be removed when upgrading your system. There is simply no reason, especially with these updated tips, that you ever have to fully dismantle the dash, at least not for stereo installation and speaker upgrades.

Hope this helps those who haven't yet taken the plunge!
Thanks for taking the time to update this - this will help a lot of people save a ton of time and reduce potential mistakes like breaking clips and cracking dash pieces.

Plus the drivers side is the tricky side, passenger side is easy to get out without the dash torn apart. Probably saved people at least 1.5 hours on this.
 

scuba264

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Lol, so funny thing...does everyone's cigarette lighter lose power when the engine cuts out at stop lights? Got all my stuff working, had to order and wire in the resistors to trick the head unit. All working great! But I tapped the cigarette lighter...the damn amp cuts out when I stop haha wtf!? Assuming a blip in the power there and killing my remote signal. I swear I saw other people doing that. Theres two wires right, the socket and the light? Maybe I grabbed the wrong one?
 
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Lol, so funny thing...does everyone's cigarette lighter lose power when the engine cuts out at stop lights? Got all my stuff working, had to order and wire in the resistors to trick the head unit. All working great! But I tapped the cigarette lighter...the damn amp cuts out when I stop haha wtf!? Assuming a blip in the power there and killing my remote signal. I swear I saw other people doing that. Theres two wires right, the socket and the light? Maybe I grabbed the wrong one?
This is the wire I used. No issues with ESS and amps cutting out here. Is this the same wire you tapped?

20180811_172814.jpg
 

scuba264

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This is the wire I used. No issues with ESS and amps cutting out here. Is this the same wire you tapped?

20180811_172814.jpg
Of course I snap pics of most projects I do and this is one part I didn't. But yeah I'm pretty positive thats it. I even had the same style taps laying around and used the same thing. I'd expect either of those leads to behave the same way I'd think. If it keeps up I'll be pulling the radio again so I'll have to check.
 

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I ended up with exactly two extra screws too. And I fixed the pods on the sides as well. No idea, well, I guess I'll just save them :D
I ended up with 2 extra screws as well and was ultra cautious being organized. Oh well! No dash rattle, so put them in the extra Jeep parts box.
 

treyman

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question on the PAC. I have the 8.4 alpine system. I want to add an additional sub only (for now). Parts down below. but have seen mixed comments on if the PAC will work purely as a sub only RCA out.
Reasons I want it over a LOC/LC2i are 1. plug and play/ ease of installation. 2 if I want to upgrade later the rest of my speakers with another amp I have the option. I much prefer installation ease over saving a couple bucks. But with a call to crutchfield and some mixed comments I have read, will the rest of my speakers stop working once I plug in the PAC? or another way to ask, if I go with the PAC do I have to upgrade everything all at once?

Thanks
parts I'm considering;
Stealthbox 2 ohm
R.Fosgate R2-500x1
PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41
R.Fosgate wiring kit
$1350 ish all in...
 

Goosed

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question on the PAC. I have the 8.4 alpine system. I want to add an additional sub only (for now). Parts down below. but have seen mixed comments on if the PAC will work purely as a sub only RCA out.
Reasons I want it over a LOC/LC2i are 1. plug and play/ ease of installation. 2 if I want to upgrade later the rest of my speakers with another amp I have the option. I much prefer installation ease over saving a couple bucks. But with a call to crutchfield and some mixed comments I have read, will the rest of my speakers stop working once I plug in the PAC? or another way to ask, if I go with the PAC do I have to upgrade everything all at once?

Thanks
parts I'm considering;
Stealthbox 2 ohm
R.Fosgate R2-500x1
PAC AmpPro AP4-CH41
R.Fosgate wiring kit
$1350 ish all in...
I Can’t see why this wouldn’t work - are you using the factory wiring for the speakers? There is a wire harness thatI thought bypassed the PAC RCAs for stock speaker usage and adding a sub.

$1350 is a good spend for this. I think I was in at least $3k...
 

treyman

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I Can’t see why this wouldn’t work - are you using the factory wiring for the speakers? There is a wire harness thatI thought bypassed the PAC RCAs for stock speaker usage and adding a sub.

$1350 is a good spend for this. I think I was in at least $3k...
thanks for the Reply And yes factory amp, speakers and wiring. Not planning Or wanting to change any of that right now.
 











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