Adding an Aftermarket Amp(s)

[Sting_NC_USA]

Awesome thanks! I’ll start with the sub and see how that goes. So does tapping into the rear speaker wires eliminate the need to tap into the head unit like I’ve done in the past?

Yes, if you're just running a sub. When you build out your full system, you'll want to pull from behind the radio using a PAC Amp Pro or the resistor approach in the first post.

Sponsored

 

[jamief]

I upgraded all my speakers to kicker ds series except for the knee speakers. I used 300hz bass blockers on all the new speakers and ran the sound bar speakers in series to make up for the ohm drop caused by using 4 ohm speakers instead of the stock 8 ohm speakers. I then put a Kicker compact subwoofer in the rear storage bin. The subwoofer has a bass level control wired up to the space below the power windowswitches in the dash. it sounds alot better than thestock system and gives me good sound all around

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

For reference purposes only, I have updated the initial post with the most up-to-date data pertaining to the upgrade process. Primarily, I've added detail regarding the success of implementing the PAC Amp Pro device, and I've removed the detailed references/challenges involved in up-sizing the kick panel speakers, since the Metra 6.5-inch pods do such a great job.

Hopefully the streamlining of the content makes the post easier to read, though please let me know if I can further expand anything to assist with the enjoyment of your own system.

Rock on!

 

[Lyleb80]

sorry for the blurry photo I will take another and also the picture of how I connected the amp at the pasanger piller

My iphone was the problem with the USB connection, I now have a samsung and I do not have any problems at all with USB works great

 

[MikelMD]

After read the many posts - whew, thanks Michael! I believe I have an understanding on what I need to upgrade my UConnect 4 in my JLU - in a nut shell, a DSP, AMP and speakers. My question, I noticed on the market that there are Amps w/ DSP built in. Any reason not to go down that path?

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

After read the many posts - whew, thanks Michael! I believe I have an understanding on what I need to upgrade my UConnect 4 in my JLU - in a nut shell, a DSP, AMP and speakers. My question, I noticed on the market that there are Amps w/ DSP built in. Any reason not to go down that path?

Thanks for the kind words Mikel!

If you go with the PAC Amp Pro option, you can use any amp (with or without DSP). If you go the resistor route, you'd need a DSP that can flatten out the sound.

All DSP's aren't necessarily created equal, and I think there's some confusion (mostly driven by marketing) surrounding what a DSP is. As a quick example, the JL Audio VXi amps have their TWK feature built in. It handles cross-over, EQ, time-delay among other things, but it doesn't flatten the stock signal coming from an OEM radio. Many seem to think that level of sound control replaces what the PAC Amp Pro and/or the JL Audio Fix86's pre-amp sound flattening capabilities. I hope that makes sense, but feel free to ask clarifying questions.

This motivated me to provide a broad-based update, which I'll post here in a minute. - Take care!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Based on several recent PM's and posted questions, it's probably a good time for an update. After doing several installs, my personal equipment recommendation path has evolved a bit.

These days, I confidently recommend (in order of the power/sound path):

• Fused amp wiring kit
  • Fused 4ga wire, or larger, that's run from your battery, through the passenger side rubber grommet to just before your amp
    • Fuse MUST be installed by the battery
  • Consider an optional power distribution block, 4ga to multiple 4ga or 8ga, in case you want to power other stuff later
  • The remote wire in any amp wiring kit can be fed by tapping your auxiliary 12v port in the dash/cigarette lighter
  • Make sure your kit comes with a fuse, as many oddly don't. Not a fun fact to learn at midnight!
• PAC Amp Pro (Must be Revision 2)
  • The resistor approach still works great, though it isn't necessarily cheaper than the PAC Amp Pro option since the resistor approach requires a true DSP like the JL Audio Fix86 or equivalent
• Medium to High-Grade RCA Cables (runs from PAC to your primary amp)
• Amplifier(s) with Sound Processing Capability (something like the JL Audio VXi series or equivalent)
  • Option 1: 5-channel Amp
    • 1 channel feeds each corner of your Jeep's sound system, and the 5th channel feeds your sub
    • When using a 5-channel amp, a ported/slotted sub box is recommended to keep things "efficient"
  • Option 2: 8-channel Amp, with a separate D-Class Sub-woofer Amp
    • This is kinda' the "new method" but is more expensive to pull off
      • 2 channels feed each corner (1 channel feeds the mid-range and 1 feeds the tweeter)
      • The separate amp for the sub provides much more power, needed for sealed box subs.
      • This was what I've done and it provides SUPER CRISP and CLEAN Sound - at a price
  • Option 3+: Anything your heart desires
• For a single-amp installation - Consider JL Audio's under-seat Amp Rack (man, this thing simplifies installations more than you'd imagine!)
• For a multi-amp installation - It's time for an amp board and a bit more of a professional install.
  • You'll likely want to protect your gear, so a rear deck cover like the JL Backbone, Diabolical or Tuffy option may be beneficial
  • These options provide an opportunity to mount an amp board while also protecting your gear from weather, theft, etc.
• Speaker Separates up front, with the mid-range mounted in the new Metra 6.5" pods, tweeters in the dash.
  • With the Separates and the 5-channel amp, you'll want to use the provided cross-overs.
  • With the Separates and the 8-channel amp, you'll want to ditch the crossovers and use the amp's programming capabilities
• 4" Co-axial speakers in the soundbar (don't waste money here unless you want to go with the 8-channel approach above. Instead, consider allocating most of your money/investment in the amp and front sound stage)
• 10" Passive Sub(s) (no built in amp) or larger
  • Amplified Subs are OK; however, they may not provide the "wow" factor you're hoping for- Invest once/Cry once)
  • As a simple rule of thumb:
    • Passive subs in ported/vented sub boxes generally require less power
    • Sealed subs generally require more power
• Medium to High-grade speaker wire
  • Note: the PAC Amp Pro R2 has an option to run the pre-amp signal to your amp, then feed the amp's speaker level output back to the PAC Amp Pro speaker inputs, which then feed your amplified signal to your speakers using the stock wiring. I do not recommend this. My recommendation is to run new, quality wires from your amp to your new speakers directly.
  • To run fresh wires into the soundbar, you will need to remove it, drill a small hole near the current wiring plug (by the light), then seal it well with silicone.
• Sound deadening material for each speaker, along with a cheap bag of polyfill to stuff in each speaker enclosure.

The key in selecting an amp/speaker combination is to ENSURE your amp(s) and speakers are properly matched. This is where a sound professional can really help you, and it is the primary reason why I ALWAYS recommend buying your equipment local (or through an authorized audio professional who ships).

If anyone reading this needs help with researching and purchasing equipment, I'll share the name of professional contact that I've been using for years. He is more than willing to help and to provide competitive pricing, which also allows for authorized dealer warranty programs to be in effect. That's not always the case when you buy online.

So here's the deal: For any jlwranglerforums.com members wanting to venture into upgrading their sound systems, I've arranged a contact that can assist you with purchasing the proper equipment. He'll be happy to advise on gear that fits your needs and budget, and he's agreed to offer discounts to our members if you mention you saw his name here.

To get started, contact (Call/Text) Travis Grim @ 704-530-2073 - that's his personal cell phone. He's based near me in the Charlotte, NC area, is a fellow Jeep owner and has approved the sharing of his contact information. All I ask: If you use him as a resource and plan to buy, please buy from him. He's a highly knowledgeable, low pressure manager engaged with a large Charlotte audio/video outfit.​

I'll also share that @carstereochick and her husband are also members here and can be contacted directly.

As with the original beast of post, please do not quote this post wen responding. And, if clarification or correction to the above is warranted, I'll update this post as needed.

Enjoy!

 

[AnARcHy]

After read the many posts - whew, thanks Michael! I believe I have an understanding on what I need to upgrade my UConnect 4 in my JLU - in a nut shell, a DSP, AMP and speakers. My question, I noticed on the market that there are Amps w/ DSP built in. Any reason not to go down that path?

You can take what @Sting_NC_USA says as gospel. He know what he is doing, and the local dealer is awesome to work with! The JL Audio software is a little ominous at first, but now I am having a blast playing with it!

 

[MikelMD]

Again, Michael, much appreciated. The last time I was deeply involved in my Jeep's audio was over 20 years ago w/ my second CJ-7. Man, have things changed...and while I agree w/ do it once and do it right, or buy quality and do it once. The equipment that most have suggested is a bit pricy. I have a budget that is <$1k for all components, and my goal is to have better sound that the OEM and better than if I were to buy the Alpine for JL for $1200.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Again, Michael, much appreciated. The last time I was deeply involved in my Jeep's audio was over 20 years ago w/ my second CJ-7. Man, have things changed...and while I agree w/ do it once and do it right, or buy quality and do it once. The equipment that most have suggested is a bit pricy. I have a budget that is <$1k for all components, and my goal is to have better sound that the OEM and better than if I were to buy the Alpine for JL for $1200.

I hear you loud and clear. Here's something to consider...

$250: PAC Amp Pro R2 installed via Plug and Play behind your radio.
$50: Amp wiring kit (Don't go cheap here - many Amazon kits have cheap tin wire)
$500: JL Audio XD700/5v2 5-Channel car Amplifier Capable of:

75 watts RMS x 4 + 180 watts RMS x 1 (at 4 ohms)
100 watts RMS x 4 + 300 watts RMS x 1 (at 2 ohms)
200 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms​

$250: JL Audio C2650 Separates for the fronts, leave the rears as is for now, or add the C2 coaxials at $160
$50: Metra 6.5 inch pods
$200: JL Audio CP110-W0v3 BassWedge
$1,300 ($1,460 with rear C2's)
​

These are "advertised" prices, to which I may be able to find someone to help you find them cheaper. Or, you can look online for a used amp in the same class. The thing is, each component listed can be swapped out for something moderately less/more. The selections above are only what I believe would give you a scale-able option set.

A setup like this would serve as a decent entry-level system that would sound significantly better than stock. As you know, you can go cheaper than this, but you'll likely want more very soon, and you'll end up paying more in the long run.

 

[MikelMD]

I hear you loud and clear. Here's something to consider...

$250: PAC Amp Pro R2 installed via Plug and Play behind your radio.
$50: Amp wiring kit (Don't go cheap here - many Amazon kits have cheap tin wire)
$500: JL Audio XD700/5v2 5-Channel car Amplifier Capable of:

75 watts RMS x 4 + 180 watts RMS x 1 (at 4 ohms)
100 watts RMS x 4 + 300 watts RMS x 1 (at 2 ohms)
200 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms + 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms​

$250: JL Audio C2650 Separates for the fronts, leave the rears as is for now, or add the C2 coaxials at $160
$50: Metra 6.5 inch pods
$200: JL Audio CP110-W0v3 BassWedge
$1,300 ($1,460 with rear C2's)​

These are "advertised" prices, to which I may be able to find someone to help you find them cheaper. Or, you can look online for a used amp in the same class. The thing is, each component listed can be swapped out for something moderately less/more. The selections above are only what I believe would give you a scale-able option set.

A setup like this would serve as a decent entry-level system that would sound significantly better than stock. As you know, you can go cheaper than this, but you'll likely want more very soon, and you'll end up paying more in the long run.

Michael,

What can I write - THANK YOU! I had begun to compile a "watered down" version for me to use before u posted this. I am glad you mentioned the Amp wiring kit. I did not have that on my "to buy" list. I was looking at the Pioneer GM-DX975 for the amp - and in comparison - the spec's are fairly similar. Any concerns? Finally, the JL audio speakers, on the crutchfield website claims that these do not fit. In your original post u did not mention if it was an easy swap out, even though u added the Metra and these speakers are larger.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Michael,

What can I write - THANK YOU! I had begun to compile a "watered down" version for me to use before u posted this. I am glad you mentioned the Amp wiring kit. I did not have that on my "to buy" list. I was looking at the Pioneer GM-DX975 for the amp - and in comparison - the spec's are fairly similar. Any concerns? Finally, the JL audio speakers, on the crutchfield website claims that these do not fit. In your original post u did not mention if it was an easy swap out, even though u added the Metra and these speakers are larger.

You're most certainly welcome! The C2's recommended for the front are 6.5-inch speakers, which is why the Metra Pods are needed. The Metra Pods have 6.5-inch openings and replace the stock speaker pods in the kick panel area, which makes them the easiest option to install. For reference, the stock pods can only handle 4-inch speakers. Have fun with your project!

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

You're most certainly welcome! The C2's recommended for the front are 6.5-inch speakers, which is why the Metra Pods are needed. The Metra Pods have 6.5-inch openings and replace the stock speaker pods in the kick panel area, which makes them the easiest option to install. For reference, the stock pods can only handle 4-inch speakers. Have fun with your project!

Edit:

Oh, I almost forgot... Regarding the amps, they're really in two different classes. Without getting too technical, it breaks down to the quality of components inside. The dead giveaway is the presence of fuses on the outside of the Pioneer's panel. I generally recommend electronics that have internal heat and voltage protection. Also, the true output of the JL amp will be much stronger than the claimed output of the Pioneer. You'll have to Google "How to tell if a car amplifier rating is too good to be true."

Pioneer makes "ok" equipment for cars (excellent equipment for home audio - See their Elite series), they're not known for quality in the car audio world.

Your best bang for the buck will be the JL or something in that range like Audison, Focal, Morel, AudioControl. In my humble opinion, Kenwood, Pioneer, Dual, Infinity, and others' entry level stuff, aren't going to give you the quality you want. Specifically you want Total Harmonic Distortion at/below 1% and a strong signal to noise ratio (good value to use when comparing amps).

 

[Go Outside]

I am using the audiocontrol d4.800 amp. It has an onboard DSP with an incoming signal flattening feature similar to the JL Fix. I dont think it adjusts for factory time delay but thats fine with me. Time delay was probably calculated well enough from the factory. Unless you are going to tweak time delay between the tweats and mids, something, you would have to be a true audio hero to hear in a jeep, the EQ flattening should be enough. And, it does give you time adjustments if you want to play with them after the input. In the end you are going to make your own adjustments based on what sounds good to your ears anyway.
I will add that the Morel Tempo Ultra 6.5” components have a weak midbass response in the metra pods. Dont believe the crotchfield speaker compare feature on their website. My Speakers sound closer to AM radio than the warm, rich sound that played through my headphones when I was choosing speakers. And, yes they are in phase. Im wishing i had saved some money and gone with the JL’s, I loved my last pair.

 

[Du0377]

Hello everyone,
I upgraded all of my speakers to alpines and also put some 6.5 in jl c2 650x’s in the knee kick panels. I upgraded my 5 inch to the 7 inch and wrapped everything with dynamat, polyfill, and used some fast rings. I was just getting ready to install some
Jl stealthboxes but then.... I got accepted to medical school so now I just can’t spend the $2500 on the subs, pac amp pro, and amplifier plus install. My question is would it be worth adding just an amplifier? Would it increase the sound quality to a noticeable amount?

Sponsored