A Different Oil Filter Question

[Wabujitsu]

@Jeepjunkie, I expect you to be all over this thread with some helpful advice, you motor oil addict!

Considering the known issues with the 3.6 liter engine, would an oil bypass filtration system (dual oil filter system) possibly mitigate those issues? If so, what system would you recommend? Thank you!

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[YBABRAT]

I see no issues with 3.6L v6. Though I wish that I never bothered with a Fram Extra Guard filter.

I wish I took a photo but did not... too late to pick the garbage as it went out yesterday.

Of all the filter replacements (5 total). The Fram twisted like a cork screw. Fortunately it did filter. Just twisted. When I removed the cap... the filter stayed in the cooler assembly. Enough said on that.

Gone back to the tried and true Mobil 1 that has never failed in application. And replacing it at every 5k oil change.

Now some will say it was user error in installation. Nope not me! I'm careful in making proper fit during installation and my procedures. Worked on cars as a hobby since high school.

With that being said. With today's manufacturers cutting costs it's a crap shoot on what stays within spec during manufacturing. Does not matter about top tier products, it happens.

Even in the paint industry. I work in industrial powder coating. Just a few days ago, having to meet standards, our paint ended up contaminated. It ran through a batch order that would have taken 1.5 hrs to reprocess. Because the paint was only noticeable from 3 feet away, we let it go.

Considering relative differences between fitment tolerance and paint partical mix, depending on how close your tolerance to being exact will make a difference. Obviously the oil filter had to compress and got twisted before cap had completely sealed.

What can't be seen may effect how thing will come out.

Now I am wondering who is willing to buy 10 major brands and mic each filter in comparison to find out variances. To me it is more critical than just what you read on the box and hear on YouTube.

 

[Wabujitsu]

I see no issues with 3.6L v6. Though I wish that I never bothered with a Fram Extra Guard filter.

I wish I took a photo but did not... too late to pick the garbage as it went out yesterday.

Of all the filter replacements (5 total). The Fram twisted like a cork screw. Fortunately it did filter. Just twisted. When I removed the cap... the filter stayed in the cooler assembly. Enough said on that.

Gone back to the tried and true Mobil 1 that has never failed in application. And replacing it at every 5k oil change.

Now some will say it was user error in installation. Nope not me! I'm careful in making proper fit during installation and my procedures. Worked on cars as a hobby since high school.

With that being said. With today's manufacturers cutting costs it's a crap shoot on what stays within spec during manufacturing. Does not matter about top tier products, it happens.

Even in the paint industry. I work in industrial powder coating. Just a few days ago, having to meet standards, our paint ended up contaminated. It ran through a batch order that would have taken 1.5 hrs to reprocess. Because the paint was only noticeable from 3 feet away, we let it go.

Considering relative differences between fitment tolerance and paint partical mix, depending on how close your tolerance to being exact will make a difference. Obviously the oil filter had to compress and got twisted before cap had completely sealed.

What can't be seen may effect how thing will come out.

Now I am wondering who is willing to buy 10 major brands and mic each filter in comparison to find out variances. To me it is more critical than just what you read on the box and hear on YouTube.

Thanks for your reply, but can you please give me your thoughts on what I specifically asked about? Thank you!

 

[GW’s JL]

The issue is the lack of an Anti Drain Back Valve so the oil drains out of the oil filter and at times gives you a “dry” start. If this issue bothers you I believe the Baxter oil filter adapter is an option. Not sure a dual bypass system will cure this but the filtering ability will be excellent.

 

[Wabujitsu]

The issue is the lack of an Anti Drain Back Valve so the oil drains out of the oil filter and at times gives you a “dry” start. If this issue bothers you I believe the Baxter oil filter adapter is an option. Not sure a dual bypass system will cure this but the filtering ability will be fantastic.

Thank you!!

 

[X35]

As posted above the Baxter adapter with its anti drain back check valve prevents the 3.6 dry start issue and allows a quality canister style (Wix or Mobile One) filter to be used. The only draw back is added weight to the plastic oil cooler housing. I installed mine at just over 1K miles and have been keeping a close eye on it and haven’t noticed any issues. My engine starts and idles very quietly.

 

[Odyssey USA]

The issue is the lack of an Anti Drain Back Valve so the oil drains out of the oil filter and at times gives you a “dry” start. If this issue bothers you I believe the Baxter oil filter adapter is an option. Not sure a dual bypass system will cure this but the filtering ability will be excellent.

I looked into this early this year. There’s a lot of videos of owners saying that even with the Baxter, sitting for a weekend, you still get cold start valvetrain noise. The oil still drains back but it is slower.

As to noise, it seems to cut the time in half. Instead of 2-3 seconds, maybe 1.5. That makes sense because it’s just holding oil better about halfway through the oil pathways that start at the oil pan and ending at the valvetrain.

I’ll add, with Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30, I get ~ about~ the same time with no Baxter.

 

[GW’s JL]

I looked this early this year. There’s a lot of videos of owners saying that even with the Baxter, sitting for a weekend, you still get cold start valvetrain noise. The oil still drains back but it is slower.

As to noise, it seems to cut the time in half. Instead of 2-3 seconds, maybe 1.5. That makes sense because it’s just holding oil better about halfway through the oil pathways that start at the oil pan and ending at the valvetrain.

I’ll add, with Mobil 1 ESP 0w-30, I get ~ about~ the same time with no Baxter.

I agree. I haven’t installed the Baxter. But I do use ESP 0W-30 and a high flow/high efficiency oil filter. I rarely have engine noise at start up.

 

[Odyssey USA]

I agree. I haven’t installed the Baxter. But I do use ESP 0W-30 and a high flow/high efficiency oil filter. I rarely have engine noise at start up.

I get some here and there after sitting a while but yeah, it’s not an issue at all if I drive it every day for sure.

 

[jadmt]

I personally will just continue to use the oem Mopar filter and change oil every 3000-4000 miles or so, at least until the warranty is done...for me that is 85000 so it will be long gone by then. I will be interested to hear what warranty implications a baxter or other system would create if there was an issue..

 

[Ben-Zair Dun-Zatt]

The issue is the lack of an Anti Drain Back Valve so the oil drains out of the oil filter and at times gives you a “dry” start. If this issue bothers you I believe the Baxter oil filter adapter is an option. Not sure a dual bypass system will cure this but the filtering ability will be excellent.

I hear this lack of an anti drain back valve concern a lot.
This is not a real on the 3.6l.
Let me prove it to you.
The next time you change your oil, drain the pan first. Leave the drain plug out. Wait what ever time you wish, and when you want, start to unscrew the oil filter cap for removal. When the vacuum is broken in the filter housing, you will hear the oil from the oil lines going to filter come rushing out and see the oil come rushing out of the “empty“ oil pan drain plug hole.
The OEM filter assemble creates a vacuum effect in the oil
pick up tube that prevents the oil from draining back into the pan.
Additionally, if the is oil in the pan, the vacuum suspended oil in the pick tube will remain there almost indefinitely.This is the exact same grade school science class project as dipping a straw in a tall glass of water. Put your finger over the top of the straw and lift the straw out of the glass. The water will stay suspended in the straw for a very long time. Now if left the bottom tip of the straw in the glass of water, the water would remain in the straw indefinitely.
So I cannot see see any problem or fault with the the OEM existing design.
Try it and see If you doubt me.

 

[YBABRAT]

Thanks for your reply, but can you please give me your thoughts on what I specifically asked about? Thank you!

Simple I have over 114k on odo... 0w-20 all its life or should I say for 30k+ on odo since I got it. I drive it hard and keep up with 5k oil and filter changes. I use only Restore and Protect. The first 3 oil changes were dramatic and actually kicked out and filtered old break in and factory machining particles that sat in pocket areas. Now nothing but operational contamination is filtered. No ticks no knocks no internal engine issues. Two O2 up flow sensors were recently replaced to clear O2 sensor not ready.

With all that said... make your concerns between practicality and over kill giving peace of mind. You'll find I have peace of mind being practical.

 

[YBABRAT]

I hear this lack of an anti drain back valve concern a lot.
This is not a real on the 3.6l.
Let me prove it to you.
The next time you change your oil, drain the pan first. Leave the drain plug out. Wait what ever time you wish, and when you want, start to unscrew the oil filter cap for removal. When the vacuum is broken in the filter housing, you will hear the oil from the oil lines going to filter come rushing out and see the oil come rushing out of the “empty“ oil pan drain plug hole.
The OEM filter assemble creates a vacuum effect in the oil
pick up tube that prevents the oil from draining back into the pan.
Additionally, if the is oil in the pan, the vacuum suspended oil in the pick tube will remain there almost indefinitely.This is the exact same grade school science class project as dipping a straw in a tall glass of water. Put your finger over the top of the straw and lift the straw out of the glass. The water will stay suspended in the straw for a very long time. Now if left the bottom tip of the straw in the glass of water, the water would remain in the straw indefinitely.
So I cannot see see any problem or fault with the the OEM existing design.
Try it and see If you doubt me.

That is why I remove filter before uncorking the pan drain plug with my oil changes.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Now I am wondering who is willing to buy 10 major brands and mic each filter in comparison to find out variances. To me it is more critical than just what you read on the box and hear on YouTube.

Not 10, but here are 4 that I compared quite some time ago:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...s-to-wring-its-filters-out.49733/post-1100977

 

[YBABRAT]

Not 10, but here are 4 that I compared quite some time ago:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...s-to-wring-its-filters-out.49733/post-1100977

Add Fram to the list of twisters.

Thanks!

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