4xe Rubicon lift kit

[TravelerTheJLU]

Hey everyone, I just picked up a 2023 4xe Rubicon 20th anniversary, I'm thinking about lifting it relatively soon. The Jeep is my daily driver, but I do like to take it offroading a decent bit(optimistically maybe 25 times a year), and I have plans to install either 35s or 37s. My goals are to keep a comparable ride quality, pick up 2-3ish inches of lift, keep it around $2,000, and I DO NOT want to change the front drive shaft. Originally, I was going to go with the new Mopar Bilstein lift, However, it seems like people are saying they only pick up about 1-2" of lift. To me this seems like it is making less and less sense as the 20th anniversary already has a 1" lift in it, I understand the shocks are a big upgrade, and I do get longer control arms. My next thought was to get a JKS J venture or J Kontrol lift however, I am "worried"/curious about ride quality. The next kit I am considering is the AEV Dualsport which I have heard good things about when it comes to ride quality, but unsure of the lift height and spring capacity as I have steel bumpers, winch, tools, recovery gear, etc.
Thank you in advance, any other recommendations on potential lifts would be appreciated!

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[GATORB8]

Do 37s. What wheels?

 

[TravelerTheJLU]

I would probably keep the beadlock-capable rims and run a small spacer. In all likelihood, I will probably go with 35s, but trying to explore options.

 

[GATORB8]

I would probably keep the beadlock-capable rims and run a small spacer. In all likelihood, I will probably go with 35s, but trying to explore options.

Those are the 7.5s? I think the offset on those is same as stocks. I don’t think the JKS can run stock offset IiRC.

 

[TravelerTheJLU]

Those are the 7.5s? I think the offset on those is same as stocks. I don’t think the JKS can run stock offset IiRC.

They are 7.5, I did see that on their website and was also kind of curious about that...

 

[Inkhero]

Just curious why you appear to have a firm stance against upgrading the front driveshaft. The 4xe has a unique problem with the stock drive shaft angle becoming aggressively steeper once lifted, due to the shorter distance, compared to the gas versions.

 

[TravelerTheJLU]

Just curious why you appear to have a firm stance against upgrading the front driveshaft. The 4xe has a unique problem with the stock drive shaft angle becoming aggressively steeper once lifted, due to the shorter distance, compared to the gas versions.

To be honest its a can of worms I don't know if I am willing to tackle, it's additional costs, and the wheeling I do doesn't require an absurd lift that I feel I need to go up to, meaning I don't see myself benefiting(other then it looking sweet) from going over that 29" front shock or whatever it is.

 

[Panda Mafia]

Im still on 2 inch spacer lift and 37. do just fine in most of my off-roading. Ofc you can still keep stock drive shaft with this.

 

[TravelerTheJLU]

Im still on 2 inch spacer lift and 37. do just fine in most of my off-roading. Ofc you can still keep stock drive shaft with this.

Out of curiosity, which lift did you choose?

 

[Panda Mafia]

Out of curiosity, which lift did you choose?

Aev 2.0.
I added Mopar lower arms as well (not that they looked any longer)
Last year got fox 2.0 shock
But those optional. I drove without those things and was just as good.

at the time our 4xe were higher than all rubicons out of the gate. So 2 inch lift was enough on top of what we had and no drive shaft needed.

ofc I prefer proper lift and was going that route but now that 392 pricing is better I’m holding off with that. Just in case I pull the trigger.

 

[Slate]

I have been looking at the AEV 2.0 spacer as well, but I have a 3/4 inch spacer in the front to counter the sag I was having due to the AEV bumper, winch and lights, etc. I know you don't want to stack spacers, but was curious about options?

I would hate to do the 2.0 spacer lift and still have that front end sag - it might not be as noticeable with the spacers pushing the fenders up higher than stock, but still.

 

[TravelerTheJLU]

I have been looking at the AEV 2.0 spacer as well, but I have a 3/4 inch spacer in the front to counter the sag I was having due to the AEV bumper, winch and lights, etc. I know you don't want to stack spacers, but was curious about options?

I would hate to do the 2.0 spacer lift and still have that front end sag - it might not be as noticeable with the spacers pushing the fenders up higher than stock, but still.

I think your decision might come down to a few different things. I ran a TF 2.5" spacer lift and JLU Rubicon suspension on my old JLU Sport. After a year maybe, I did notice some sagging from my winch, bumper, skid plates, etc. Before selling it I was looking at installing a set of heavy-duty springs. Then if I notice sagging I would install a 1/2-3/4 spacer in the front. The AEV HD springs are about the same price as the spacer lift, you may want to think about whether you want 3" of lift because then you may run into "issues" with other steering components. If I were you I'd probably look for a 4xe 2" HD spring or a 2.5-3" JL (non-4xe) HD spring.
That's just me, I know others will have varying opinions

 

[BigMaCro]

To be honest its a can of worms I don't know if I am willing to tackle, it's additional costs, and the wheeling I do doesn't require an absurd lift that I feel I need to go up to, meaning I don't see myself benefiting(other then it looking sweet) from going over that 29" front shock or whatever it is.

I'm not sure what can of worms you're referring to, but I can understand not wanting to pay for it right away.

Keep an eye on the Rzeppa CV joint at the transfer case. Even without wheeling, the sharper angle starts to contact the metal seal around the edge, deforming it and letting grease out and dirty water in. If you drive in 2wd and don't get off pavement, it'll probably be fine. But with articulation and with the driveshaft spinning in 4wd, it'll start to fail. You'll start to hear and feel vibration in 4wd.

Before and after doing the lift, look at the angle of the driveshaft and try to move it side to side, up and down. Get a feel for it. Then inspect it regularly after doing the lift, so you can determine if it's starting to fail. Look around that Rzeppa CV joint at the transfer case end, watch for dirty black greese starting to accumulate around the outside as it leeks out (there's no way to add grease to it). Once it starts to accumalate, the CV has failed and is now wearing metal-dirt-metal.

So budget for a driveshaft down the road, from J.E. Reel, Adams, Tom Woods, or ask around locally for a trusted shop to make you one. You can take measurements once it's lifted, or those companies often have a kit for a lifted 4xe that includes the proper flanges. I just ordered my Metalcloak lift including the driveshaft, but it bolted in with no problems.

 

[TravelerTheJLU]

I'm not sure what can of worms you're referring to, but I can understand not wanting to pay for it right away.

Keep an eye on the Rzeppa CV joint at the transfer case. Even without wheeling, the sharper angle starts to contact the metal seal around the edge, deforming it and letting grease out and dirty water in. If you drive in 2wd and don't get off pavement, it'll probably be fine. But with articulation and with the driveshaft spinning in 4wd, it'll start to fail. You'll start to hear and feel vibration in 4wd.

Before and after doing the lift, look at the angle of the driveshaft and try to move it side to side, up and down. Get a feel for it. Then inspect it regularly after doing the lift, so you can determine if it's starting to fail. Look around that Rzeppa CV joint at the transfer case end, watch for dirty black greese starting to accumulate around the outside as it leeks out (there's no way to add grease to it). Once it starts to accumalate, the CV has failed and is now wearing metal-dirt-metal.

So budget for a driveshaft down the road, from J.E. Reel, Adams, Tom Woods, or ask around locally for a trusted shop to make you one. You can take measurements once it's lifted, or those companies often have a kit for a lifted 4xe that includes the proper flanges. I just ordered my Metalcloak lift including the driveshaft, but it bolted in with no problems.

Yeah as I've done some research since posting that I'm not as worried about switching it out, I thought it was more in-depth. I also think others have documented what works well. Thank you for the insight

 

[GATORB8]

Yeah as I've done some research since posting that I'm not as worried about switching it out, I thought it was more in-depth. I also think others have documented what works well. Thank you for the insight

I haven't checked in a while, but Oliver's in Winston Salem was the best pricing when I got my 1310. Note, I was able to damage the slip joint on our OEM with 28.5" extended Bilstein's, it lasted somewhere between 6 months and a year before I swapped it with no "symptoms".

When I originally lifted ours, the spring lifts were not out yet, so you should be able to find some old threads of mine with some info.

I believe the 7.5 wheels are still +44 offset, so if you aren't swapping or spacing, you'll be somewhat limited in manufacturers. IIRC, Metalcloak is the only real lift manufacturer that accommodated stock offset.

It'd be tight, but you could do a MC True Dual and source other shocks so you don't need a driveshaft. That allows you to upgrade piecemeal down the road if you decide to.

I recommend thinking long and hard before settling on 35s, took a bath on ours after swapping to 37s after 4k miles.

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