40'S on your JL

[GRN JLLO]

How do you like the radflo shocks? I have been looking at upgrading the shocks on my JLU but I haven't decided on which ones yet. I keep seeing radflo pop up when I am looking at shocks.

Love the Radflos. The guys that work there are great. They listen to what kind of wheeling you do and will valve them to what you are going to do.

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[Southernconfort]

Wish I knew someone that tried 40s with a stock axles and see how it's holding up. Don't mind spending the money to read gear but don't want to spend a lot more on new axle
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We are and is holding up fine just different wheeling, we went to windrock from FL and they did fine, is a lot less of just f.ck it send it, is more of technical, what line am I going to take and that kind of stuff, I did upgrade the components like axle shafts and change to reid knuckles as well and upgraded the ball joints

 

[Jammer]

Wish I knew someone that tried 40s with a stock axles and see how it's holding up. Don't mind spending the money to read gear but don't want to spend a lot more on new axle

We are and is holding up fine just different wheeling, we went to windrock from FL and they did fine, is a lot less of just f.ck it send it, is more of technical, what line am I going to take and that kind of stuff, I did upgrade the components like axle shafts and change to reid knuckles as well and upgraded the ball joints
[/QUOTE]
Like you said if you just stay on the highway you're probably okay but I have heard of people going off-roading not hard but mild and they still broken axle

 

[longleaf_JL]

Wish I knew someone that tried 40s with a stock axles and see how it's holding up. Don't mind spending the money to read gear but don't want to spend a lot more on new axle

I have been running stock Rubicon axles with 40s for almost 25k miles now. I added Barnes 4wd trusses and Spicer chromoly shafts in the rear. Oh and thats stock gears also. Its all about driving style and what your willing to deal with so to speak. I have no issues that I can’t handle. Yeah it’s probably not the preferred way to go but it’s working for now. Was still using the front stock drive shaft til recently. I have wheeled this at Vernal, Moab and Sand Hollow and I’m from the South in NC and I do not own a trailer.

 

[Jammer]

I have been running stock Rubicon axles with 40s for almost 25k miles now. I added Barnes 4wd trusses and Spicer chromoly shafts in the rear. Oh and thats stock gears also. Its all about driving style and what your willing to deal with so to speak. I have no issues that I can’t handle. Yeah it’s probably not the preferred way to go but it’s working for now. Was still using the front stock drive shaft til recently. I have wheeled this at Vernal, Moab and Sand Hollow and I’m from the South in NC and I do not own a trailer.

Yes you are right on the trusses they do make a difference. What gears did you go to ? and how much did it cost to have a trusses install parts and labor if you did it yourself how much were the parts and what do you think labor would be?

 

[Jammer]

Yes you are right on the trusses they do make a difference. What gears did you go to ? and how much did it cost to have a trusses install parts and labor if you did it yourself how much were the parts and what do you think labor would be?

Also damn that's a long drive to Moab from North Carolina isn't it

 

[longleaf_JL]

Also damn that's a long drive to Moab from North Carolina isn't it

Yes Sir and I have done that drive 4 times this year

 

[Will.Batt]

Just Joined the 40's Club. On "stock" axles. (D44, RCVs front and rear, Reids, Artec Trusses, Dynatrack Ball Joints, ect) Im sure eventually I will upgrade to D60s. And when I do, someone will get some seriously built D44s for their rig.

 

[Jammer]

Just Joined the 40's Club. On "stock" axles. (D44, RCVs front and rear, Reids, Artec Trusses, Dynatrack Ball Joints, ect) Im sure eventually I will upgrade to D60s. And when I do, someone will get some seriously built D44s for their rig.

What size lift do you have to go with to put the 40s and how much does it cost to put trusses

 

[Will.Batt]

What size lift do you have to go with to put the 40s and how much does it cost to put trusses

Ive got a MC 3.5 GC lift, with a 3/4" spacer added in the rear. Trusses can be expensive to install unless you know a good welder and have the tools/knowledge to take everything apart. Most likely around $1k for the front truss, and few hundred for the rear.

 

[Jammer]

Ive got a MC 3.5 GC lift, with a 3/4" spacer added in the rear. Trusses can be expensive to install unless you know a good welder and have the tools/knowledge to take everything apart. Most likely around $1k for the front truss, and few hundred for the rear.

That's not bad. will they really help a lot from breaking a axle if you just do mild off roading ?

 

[Will.Batt]

That's not bad. will they really help a lot from breaking a axle if you just do mild off roading ?

only time will tell......

 

[OBJLU]

That's not bad. will they really help a lot from breaking a axle if you just do mild off roading ?

My buddy had both axles trussed with rcvs and stock ball joints, covers and knuckles, he wheels the living crap out of it runs kings of hammer trails, zero issues

 

[Jammer]

My buddy had both axles trussed with rcvs and stock ball joints, covers and knuckles, he wheels the living crap out of it runs kings of hammer trails, zero issues

That's good to know that you really don't have to spend the 15 to $18,000 for a new axles

 

[J0E]

My buddy had both axles trussed with rcvs and stock ball joints, covers and knuckles, he wheels the living crap out of it runs kings of hammer trails, zero issues

BTW, bending axles risk has very little to do with tire/wheel size, it's the impulse on the axle, which is mass time change in velocity. KoH needs a much stronger axle tube. KoH without lockers doesn't strain the ring gear/pinion as much as crawling with them engaged.

Running 40's on a stock JL dana 44 with lockers engaged and serious rock crawling puts you at high risk of breaking a ring gear or other driveline component. Another common myth is big tires accelerate the wear on the axles so they'll eventually break. Under normal conditions, axles don't break from wear and tear and lots of use. It's not the wear and tear, it's exceeding the torque limits of the components that causes something to break.

That's good to know that you really don't have to spend the 15 to $18,000 for a new axles

I wouldn't take "It's OK to run 40's on dana 44's gusseted/RCV's/etc as gospel. Many on this forum have learned the hard way that's not true.

The consciences seems to be 37x12.5 is the limit with dana 44's and RCV's/chromoly rear shafts, although several have reported breaking axle components with that combo.

Axle tube strength goes up as the fourth power, and it is called Moment of Inertia, or Inertial Stiffness. Jeep spent more money making JL stiffer than the JK:

3.14159265 × (D4 - d4) ÷ 64
(70^4 - 63.65^4) ÷ (62.5^4 - 56.15^4) × 100% = JL+43% stiffer than JK

Given the JL is 43% stiffer than the JK, then the JK folks must be bending axles left and right.

Jeep wouldn't spend more money for the stiffer axle if the JK axles could robustly support 35's.

My guess for a JLR is 35's are safe, that's the maximum from the factory. You can get away with 37x12.5, even without RCV/chrome shafts if your both careful and lucky.

As many others have pointed out, you call sell JLR axles for $4K and save all that money regearing/rcv's/shafts/truss, so it's not nearly that much more.

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