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2020 JLUS 2.0T Overheating

AdventureTime2.0

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HI All,

First time Jeep owner, happy to have one. I've gone from having a company vehicle for the last 15 years, so now that I have a choice (I'm no longer employed there) I decided to get a Wrangler. Being on a budget I decided to go with a Certified Pre-Owned with 26k miles on it. I drove it off the lot this last Saturday to my house which is about 10 miles away, didn't go anywhere yesterday. Got in to run some errands this morning, made it about 8-9 miles from my house and boom...temp display lit up like a Christmas tree, also had a noticeable loss of power. I had it towed to my local CDJR dealer, not the same one I purchased from though. Any ideas what I need to look out for be aware of? Should I turn it back in and run for the hills? I've already ready some of the overheating horror stories and would like to avoid that. Appreciate any input!
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With the engine cool, check the [opaque] coolant reservoir, adjacent to the brake master cylinder, to ensure that the fluid level is between the Min and Max gradations.

There is a TSB regarding the water pump inlet tube bolts requiring a check, and possible tightening. This is because that location is the potential source of coolant leaks, if the fasteners aren't sufficiently snug. Here's a link to one of several threads on the subject.

Finally, have a look at the reservoir itself to ensure there's no leakage occurring there. Evidence of a leak usually occurs in the form of crusty deposits around the seam, and/or elsewhere if that's where the leak is occurring.

N.B.: Use OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant only for your engine. No HOAT, no POAT.
 
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AdventureTime2.0

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I will definitely check that out, it's currently at the dealership. Just hoping it didn't cause any damage to the heads etc. I can always do a coolant flush to make sure it has OAT instead of the others. Thank you!
 

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I will definitely check that out, it's currently at the dealership.
One more thing: the 2.0T has an air-to-water intercooler, which uses a separate reservoir that is adjacent to the windscreen washer fluid reservoir. The same OAT coolant is used for the intercooler, so have a look at that one also to ensure the correct fluid level.
 
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You're a wizard, I really appreciate it. Hopefully I can get this issue behind me and work on some mods!
 

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I know what I have to say doesn't pertain to your situation put is what I have found on the Wrangler JL cooling system
I am running 37in. tires 4.88 gears and about 1200lb of upgrades and gear
3.6 automatic trans

For the last 3 months
Here is what I discovered and what I am working on
This is how the cooling system works or not working
The thermostat opens at 190 degrees
The cooling fans comes on at 1/4 speed at 221 and will only go fulls speed at 231 degrees
I have been trying to get control of the cooling system by adding a pusher fan on the condenser put this is what I found
Most cars including the jeep JK the condenser is mounted 1/4 to 1/2 in. from the radiator
On the Jeep JL the condenser is about 1 1/2 in. away from the radiator
I can get the pusher fan to shoot air though the condenser at 150 MPH put as soon as it hit the radiator the air blows out the large gaps between the condenser and radiator and NO air going through the radiator
Next step was to close the caps between the condenser and radiator to force the air through the radiator
So now with the gaps closed off I have about 15% of the air going through the radiator and the rest of the air is blowing back though the condenser and trans cooler
Two things wrong here. The gap between the condenser is to large and the radiator WILL NOT allow free flowing air to pass through it whether you are pushing air at 150 mph with a fan or diving down the road at 60 /70 mph and that is why you see a 30 to 40 degree swing in the coolant temps. You would thing driving down the road you are getting air passing through the radiator put you are getting very little to none until the fan kicks in and sucking the air through the radiator
I ordered a Mishimoto radiator (back ordered) it looks to have a more open core that will allow more free flowing air to pass through
I will install the Mishimoto and see how it goes
And NO. The radiator is not plugged in any way inside or out side. The jeep did this from day one . New in 2020
The Engineers got this one wrong and they know it from what I have read
READ THIS
https://jalopnik.com/the-engineering-behind-the-jeep-gladiators-tow-rating-1833657453

UPDATE
The Mishimoto radiator made no difference in lowering the temperature
Step 2
Just installed the Rpmextreme JEEP JL PWM FAN CONTROLLER
This is a game changer . Here is how your fan will work with this device


Operation:

When the engine is running the PWM fan will run at a low Idle speed (15%).
When the module reads the engine temp it will command the fan to the desired %.

Fahrenheit

199 degrees = 30%

205 degrees = 50%

212 degrees = 75%

218+ degrees = 100%

Override inputs: These are optional inputs depending on if you ordered them.

These inputs will run the fan as long as the unit is powered up, the engine does not have to be running for these to work. You can use these in various ways.

Example:
When the ( VIOLET ) wire has 12 volts applied the fan will run at MAX speed.

9/15/23

I have only three days of testing put my temps now run 188 to 192 at idle all day long
Normal driving I see 192 to 195 and 199 to 205 under hard acceleration put comes down real fast

Also my oil temps are about 20 degrees lower mainly because the the engine is running cooler and now I have constant air movement over the oil cooler
This weekend I will be testing on a long up hill drive put I suspect of 215

UPDATE 9/23/23


Just got back from a trip to Lake Tahoe from the bay aria

Going up high way 80 from Auburn to Truckee at 65-70 mph the coolant topped out at 212 degrees / Trans 206 / oil 221


As soon as I hit the top of any hill the coolant temp would fall to 188 to 192 within 1 minute along with the oil and trans temps


The last trip to Tahoe about a month ago my coolant temps would hit 221 on any little hill and hit 231 or higher on the larger ones


Rpmextreme JEEP JL PWM FAN CONTROLLER has made a big difference in keeping air moving though the radiator and keeping my jeep running cooler


A PWM FAN CONTROLLER is nothing new. these are out there for other cars /trucks and motorcycles

Jon has programed one just for the jeep JK &JL


info
Jon Schaefer RpmExtreme
205-631-8225 6774 Old Hwy 31N
Rpmextreme.com Gardendale, AL 35071
 
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AdventureTime2.0

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I know what I have to say doesn't pertain to your situation put is what I have found on the Wrangler JL cooling system
I am running 37in. tires 4.88 gears and about 1200lb of upgrades and gear
3.6 automatic trans

For the last 3 months
Here is what I discovered and what I am working on
This is how the cooling system works or not working
The thermostat opens at 190 degrees
The cooling fans comes on at 1/4 speed at 221 and will only go fulls speed at 231 degrees
I have been trying to get control of the cooling system by adding a pusher fan on the condenser put this is what I found
Most cars including the jeep JK the condenser is mounted 1/4 to 1/2 in. from the radiator
On the Jeep JL the condenser is about 1 1/2 in. away from the radiator
I can get the pusher fan to shoot air though the condenser at 150 MPH put as soon as it hit the radiator the air blows out the large gaps between the condenser and radiator and NO air going through the radiator
Next step was to close the caps between the condenser and radiator to force the air through the radiator
So now with the gaps closed off I have about 15% of the air going through the radiator and the rest of the air is blowing back though the condenser and trans cooler
Two things wrong here. The gap between the condenser is to large and the radiator WILL NOT allow free flowing air to pass through it whether you are pushing air at 150 mph with a fan or diving down the road at 60 /70 mph and that is why you see a 30 to 40 degree swing in the coolant temps. You would thing driving down the road you are getting air passing through the radiator put you are getting very little to none until the fan kicks in and sucking the air through the radiator
I ordered a Mishimoto radiator (back ordered) it looks to have a more open core that will allow more free flowing air to pass through
I will install the Mishimoto and see how it goes
And NO. The radiator is not plugged in any way inside or out side. The jeep did this from day one . New in 2020
The Engineers got this one wrong and they know it from what I have read
READ THIS
https://jalopnik.com/the-engineering-behind-the-jeep-gladiators-tow-rating-1833657453

UPDATE
The Mishimoto radiator made no difference in lowering the temperature
Step 2
Just installed the Rpmextreme JEEP JL PWM FAN CONTROLLER
This is a game changer . Here is how your fan will work with this device


Operation:

When the engine is running the PWM fan will run at a low Idle speed (15%).
When the module reads the engine temp it will command the fan to the desired %.

Fahrenheit

199 degrees = 30%

205 degrees = 50%

212 degrees = 75%

218+ degrees = 100%

Override inputs: These are optional inputs depending on if you ordered them.

These inputs will run the fan as long as the unit is powered up, the engine does not have to be running for these to work. You can use these in various ways.

Example:
When the ( VIOLET ) wire has 12 volts applied the fan will run at MAX speed.

9/15/23

I have only three days of testing put my temps now run 188 to 192 at idle all day long
Normal driving I see 192 to 195 and 199 to 205 under hard acceleration put comes down real fast

Also my oil temps are about 20 degrees lower mainly because the the engine is running cooler and now I have constant air movement over the oil cooler
This weekend I will be testing on a long up hill drive put I suspect of 215

UPDATE 9/23/23

Just got back from a trip to Lake Tahoe from the bay aria

Going up high way 80 from Auburn to Truckee at 65-70 mph the coolant topped out at 212 degrees / Trans 206 / oil 221


As soon as I hit the top of any hill the coolant temp would fall to 188 to 192 within 1 minute along with the oil and trans temps


The last trip to Tahoe about a month ago my coolant temps would hit 221 on any little hill and hit 231 or higher on the larger ones


Rpmextreme JEEP JL PWM FAN CONTROLLER has made a big difference in keeping air moving though the radiator and keeping my jeep running cooler


A PWM FAN CONTROLLER is nothing new. these are out there for other cars /trucks and motorcycles

Jon has programed one just for the jeep JK &JL


info
Jon Schaefer RpmExtreme
205-631-8225 6774 Old Hwy 31N
Rpmextreme.com Gardendale, AL 35071

Thanks for this, actually found this thread last night and bookmarked the website. My JL is bone stock as I just pulled it off the lot, it's a certified pre-owned so figured it wouldn't have many issues. My biggest concern is damage to the motor after the overheating. As it's used, I have no way of knowing if this has been an issue in the past. Now the stealership is giving me the run around. So far, not impressed with their level of service.
 

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My biggest concern is damage to the motor after the overheating. As it's used, I have no way of knowing if this has been an issue in the past. Now the stealership is giving me the run around.
Possibly the dealership can search for and print out the vehicle's service history that is linked to its VIN number. This would of course be based on the service being performed by a dealer who correctly added the parts & labor data to the vehicle record. The dealer should be willing to provide this service without charge, doubly so if you purchased the vehicle from them.

Alternately, you could have a look at the Carfax history for your Jeep, as a way of backing into the same data. If the dealer can't or won't provide this particular record (mine does, but I know that not all do), you'd be on the hook for a few $$ if searching directly via the Carfax website.

Just some ideas for your consideration.
 
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AdventureTime2.0

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I looked it up on Bumper and the dealer showed me the carfax, everything checked out as far as I was able to tell. Seems like it could be an outlier, either way the dealership said they are going to fix it.
 
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AdventureTime2.0

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Just wanted to add a quick update, got her back yesterday and drove about a hundred miles, no overheating. On a side note, gas mileage is trash, avg is 14.5. I havent had to fill up the tank yet but plan an running 92oct once I need to fill up. Appreciate all of the input!
 

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Just wanted to add a quick update, got her back yesterday and drove about a hundred miles, no overheating. On a side note, gas mileage is trash, avg is 14.5. I havent had to fill up the tank yet but plan an running 92oct once I need to fill up. Appreciate all of the input!
What was the cause, did the dealer tell you or explain it on the repair order?
 

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The inlet gasket was cooked.
Is there a part number for the gasket on your service invoice, and/or a precise part name? Just want to have this on file for future reference (fellow 2.0T owner here), and "inlet gasket" is a bit vague. TIA.

As for the low MPG, possibly the computer is resetting the baseline, presuming the dealer disconnected the electricals to perform the repair work. Give it a tank or two to reset and go from there.
 
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AdventureTime2.0

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You're spot on about the mpg, it's already increasing, avg is up to 22. As far as the gasket goes, it's the water inlet valve gasket. the part number is 5048403-AB. Hope that helps, now on to spend some money on wheels/tires and headlights!
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