1310 or 1350 driveshaft?

[Sportacus]

Ive been reading multiple threads and am still going in circles here.

2018 JLUS v6 with 8spd.
In the process of putting in 392 axles but plan to keep the FAD.
currently have Dynatrac 2” enduro lift (with 2.5” front spacer) but plan to move to MC (another dilemma, 2.5 vs 3.5).
Im on lightweight 17s and pretty light 37s.
im in the process of installing an Adams 1350 rear driveshaft since my oem was beat to hell.

For the lift i plan to go with, do i go with 1310 or 1350 front driveshaft?

i like to do the local big bear BOH trails and plan to do the Rubicon this summer. Eventually Moab, some day…

im not aggressive or beat on it but would like to do more challenging stuff and eventually, possibly move up to 38s, and maybe even 39s or 40s. Whatever built d44s can handle. 60s unlikely. This is a big maybe though. 37s are the far cheaper/easier option. 38s arent too

i have steel skid plates and just picked up LoD sliders and rear bumper (have LOD front bumper). And LOD front bumper skid. LOD stuff is heavy! I have a front winch as well.
and the 392 axles are heavy! And some new motobilt diff covers which are also heavy lol. So ive got some weight on her, not including my rotund ass

so what say you? 1310 or 1350 for front driveshaft? For my use case? Please give reasons why.

ill post another thread on 2.5 vs 3.5 GC lift to not muddy this one up.

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[Aonarch]

1350.

1310s might get you a little more angle, but not enough to matter. 1350s are significantly stronger.

 

[yokramer]

If youre already 1350 on the rear why add another part you need to carry by going 1310 on the front?

 

[cj7ox]

x2. Keep them the same, that way you can carry a spare that'll fit either end.

 

[grimmjeeper]

1350

Stronger joints are always a good upgrade.

 

[SoK66]

Do you want the ujoint or the pinion/ring gear to break first?

 

[Willys41]

I was told from my local 4x4 shop go with 1310.
The reason you want the drive shaft to be the weakest point and not the ring and pinion or axles.
Until I get a Dana 60 I am running 1310s.

 

[Sportacus]

Do you want the ujoint or the pinion/ring gear to break first?

ive read that a bit on a couple forums. How often does that happen? Is that more likely to happen if you drive aggressively or can just happen no matter what?

is it more likely to happen to the front or the rear?

 

[yokramer]

ive read that a bit on a couple forums. How often does that happen? Is that more likely to happen if you drive aggressively or can just happen no matter what?

is it more likely to happen to the front or the rear?

Its only likely to break in high stress situations in 4wd so could be either. And if you are breaking your ring an pinion you are probably gonna take out an axle first unless youve upgraded those as well.

 

[SoK66]

ive read that a bit on a couple forums. How often does that happen? Is that more likely to happen if you drive aggressively or can just happen no matter what?

is it more likely to happen to the front or the rear?

Depends upon how aggressively you drive on obstacles, weight, torque, etc. Built Jeeps usually have 1,000+ pounds of weight gain (bumpers, winch, suspension, wheels & tires, skids, etc.) which adds stress to the entire drivetrain when loaded. To compensate we change to lower gear rations in the differentials, which are generally weaker. It all factors into the strength and fail points of the differentials and driveshaft components/ujoints. A buddy who builds rock buggies calls the ujoints a “fuse”, you want them to break first.

 

[WillysMeow]

1350 always replace with better/stronger...I highly dislike replacing u-joints on the trail. And when u-joints let loose it can get ugly real quick mangling the end of the shaft, punctured gas tank etc. are all possibilities.

If the ring and pinion breaks instead, you were screwed anyways...upgrade time. If it bounces too many times, I let off the gas and try a different line or a little bump and then more throttle.

 

[Sportacus]

Well, i already have the rear 1350 so no going back now, unless i take a big hit on resale.

which one is more likely to break? Front or rear? If its from bouncing (which i dont do), i would assume the front.

I dont drive aggressively or send it. Lets put it this way, ive been wheeling the big bear trails since i bought my JLUS in 2018, with d30 front axle. First on 33s for a few months, then 35s for about a year, then jumped to 37s with a front lunchbox locker and 4.88s.
the D30 is still issue free, just been wanting to upgrade to D44s forever, just in case.obviously more weight now, especially with the steel knuckles. And down/up to 4.56 gears.

my new front axle is 392 which has cv joints if that makes any difference. I also have transferred the FAD over to it (easy!).

 

[Aonarch]

1350 always replace with better/stronger...I highly dislike replacing u-joints on the trail. And when u-joints let loose it can get ugly real quick mangling the end of the shaft, punctured gas tank etc. are all possibilities.

If the ring and pinion breaks instead, you were screwed anyways...upgrade time. If it bounces too many times, I let off the gas and try a different line or a little bump and then more throttle.

This is what people don't think about. Snapping a driveshaft ujoint can turn into a really bad day. It's why drag racers normal have driveshaft cages or loops. To prevent that.

I'd rather break an axle than smash the driveshaft.

 

[wibornz]

I was told from my local 4x4 shop go with 1310.
The reason you want the drive shaft to be the weakest point and not the ring and pinion or axles.
Until I get a Dana 60 I am running 1310s.

wise words.

 

[wibornz]

Having ripped teeth off the pinion gear twice on Dana 44. I would say it takes $20 and about 20 minutes of work to replace a U-joint. It cost about $1200 to replace a ring and pinion. Then you have the tow bill to get the jeep to the shop or home or the extra hotel rooms if you are traveling So it could easily end up being $2000 to get the ring and pinion fixed. Ask me how I know about the cost. When I lost the ring and pinion on my JLUR when I was wheeling out by Yuma Arizona 2119 miles from my home in Michigan, It took me about 5 days to find a shop that would get me in. When the shop called me back, I had the Jeep Jacked up and was in the process of removing the rear tires so I could remove the rear axles, pull the rear differential a part and remove the ring gear. Then I could drive the Jeep back to Michigan in front wheel drive. I had looked at shipping the Jeep home, about $1000 and then flying home about $700.

When the rear pinion failed, I was out on the trail. I removed the rear drive shaft and limped it back to camp. For those that don't know, The little tool kit that comes with the Jeep will also remove the driveshafts. The rear end did bind and it was a horrible drive on the 20 or so miles back to camp.

I run 1350s, but also on a 60 axles.

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