2.0T P0017 P000A

[mwilk012]

The codes are telling me that oil pressure is dropping, which correlates to a failure in the VVT system because it lacks the oil pressure required to actuate the cam phasers.

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[Glamisfan]

Watching the oil pressure gauge on the dash, it is consistent with what I have seen in the past. High 40’s (49?) at higher rpm and 27 at lower rpm and idle.

what can you guys think of that would happen from a little bit of water being in the oil? It was not milkshake consistency at all when I drained the first oil, just the coolant reservoir was milkshake.

so I’ve worked on motors and transmissions and vehicles all my life. I’m a competent mechanic. But this is my first go around with variable valve technology. Can you School me just a little bit on this four-cylinder‘s parts? The cam phaser actuators are the two pieces on the front of the timing cover three bolts on each one so that’s this solenoid right. Where are the cam angles sensors? I read a couple of things saying they’re towards the rear of the head on top of the valve cover.
I do know exactly where the crank sensor is. It’s on the passenger side towards the rear of the head. I’ve seen one video on YouTube showing the things that take apart on top of the engine so you can get to it easily.

 

[Glamisfan]

One of the codes says my exhaust camshaft is slow to respond. Can I pull this out and spray some carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner in it and see if that fixes my problem?

Should I simply swap the intake and exhaust ones and see if the code moves over to the intake camshaft. That should tell me if it’s the solenoid that’s bad or if it’s something in the oil passages inside correct?

 

[Glamisfan]

I found these parts for my engine on car ID wouldn’t buy them because they’re aftermarket, but I’m not seeing these show up when I search for OEM parts. I do see that that front solenoid and rear solenoid in the pictures have screens that could be cleaned, so if I knew where those were at, maybe it’s worth pulling them and checking them out?

 

[Glamisfan]

And it’s dead! Jeep just died, and has some new codes. Having it towed to the local dealer. I’ll let you know what they find.

 

[croppz]

And it’s dead! Jeep just died, and has some new codes. Having it towed to the local dealer. I’ll let you know what they find.

ah hell, sorry to hear that.

This thread specifically has me a tad worried about long term reliability of the 2.0t. I’m super anal about my oil changes and what filter I use but i guess it’s safe to say I should get an extended warranty on this thing

 

[Glamisfan]

The fact that it’s hard to find very many people having issues with this engine is good, but on the other hand, if you want to fix it yourself, there’s very little information out there on it. It’s not a fun engine to work on. I can tell you that. The guy at the dealership did say that he’s dealt with the GEICO mechanical breakdown insurance before and that it’s a pretty easy process and usually goes very well. Fingers crossed

 

[mwilk012]

Did it sound like it lost compression? Cranks, but won’t start?

 

[Glamisfan]

It sounded and felt like it lost one or two cylinders. I was able to limp into a parking lot 100 feet away and I didn’t try to restart it after that. Temperature was 215° for the coolant. I was watching everything as I was driving and I’m like this thing’s running a little hot should be at 190-195, rolled my window didn’t hear the fan on.

 

[Glamisfan]

Did it sound like it lost compression? Cranks, but won’t start?

I know that you’re very knowledgeable on these jeep engines, what’s your thoughts on what went wrong?

One other thing to note the oil pressure was only going down to 28 psi, from memory it’s always been 19 at idle. Thought that was pretty weird.

 

[croppz]

My 2.0t is usually 17ish psi at idle and then goes up there based on load.
Coolant temp is anywhere from 185-215ish for me depending which is normal. Fans are supposed to kick on at 225.

 

[Glamisfan]

So
GEICO MBI has authorized the repair. They say the torque code from the picture above tells them to put a new PCM in and then go from there. I think that code is there cause I power braked it to keep it from dying so I could get across an intersection and park it. They’ve started it at the dealership and it does continue to run rough.

 

[Glamisfan]

The dealer called tokay and said the jeep was ready to pick up. He said they put the new PCM in, drove it for 10 miles and everything works as designed. He said it was covered under the eight year 100,000 miles smog warranty.

 

[croppz]

How interesting! “Thankfully” it was just the pcm and not something internal with the engine. Wonder what caused that

 

[Glamisfan]

After a little over a week check engine light came on again. Same code about the exhaust camshaft, the other code is a new one. My idle oil pressure is still at usually 29 once in a while 27 psi so I’m thinking the little bit of water that went through the oil maybe loosened up some crap and is making the oil pressure solenoid stick? Or the exhaust camshaft one or both?

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