2.0T timing chain replacement

[PacificNorthWest]

Has anyone had any experience replacing the 2.0T timing chains, primary and secondary? Not sure if there are any speciality tools required?
I know I can purchase an all data subscription and check to see if there is literature available but wanted to check here first if someone has already looked at this.
Hoping maybe someone else has attempted this repair that could weigh in? Im already needing to replace rockers and camshafts as I had a rocker bearing fail and just trying to understand if this is repair is worth doing myself.

Cheers

2018 2.0 Etorque 95k. with 5k mile oil changes entire life,

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[speedymart]

You need a special tool to replace it. In class we had this stop block with a long cord on the back of it that you ran through the engine out of another hole to hold one of the geas in place as you set it all up. It's been like 4 years since I went to the class and I've never had to pull the timing chain off these.

I'd suggest letting your dealer suffer through remembering that procedure.

 

[mwilk012]

Exactly what has failed?

 

[kurt rustle]

Has anyone had any experience replacing the 2.0T timing chains, primary and secondary? Not sure if there are any speciality tools required?

I'm looking to replace my timing chain tensioner and guides and was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure this out (re: special tools)?

 

[Jeep Wick]

I'm looking to replace my timing chain tensioner and guides and was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure this out (re: special tools)?

I'm looking at the procedure, I think there are 3 special tools you need. If you don't have the service manual, there is a 2018 CD on ebay worth getting.

1. Holder, Camshaft 2047500090
2. Pins 8514
3. Holder, chain tensioner 2035300090

 

[PacificNorthWest]

I'm looking to replace my timing chain tensioner and guides and was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure this out (re: special tools)?

No speciality tools were required. There are speciality tools if you want to pull the cams without removing the timing chain covers but if your goal is to replace the timing chain guides and tensioner it is straight forward. I would recommend also replacing the chains and lower chain assembly (guides, tensioner, etc) if you’re already going in there... essentially if you’re putting your hands on it, replace it (within reason). Chains stretch.

 

[kurt rustle]

No speciality tools were required. There are speciality tools if you want to pull the cams without removing the timing chain covers but if your goal is to replace the timing chain guides and tensioner it is straight forward. I would recommend also replacing the chains and lower chain assembly (guides, tensioner, etc) if you’re already going in there... essentially if you’re putting your hands on it, replace it (within reason). Chains stretch.

This is amazing, thank you!

Did you follow the procedure from some manual? I was thinking of getting an AllDataDIY yearly sub.

 

[PacificNorthWest]

This is amazing, thank you!

Did you follow the procedure from some manual? I was thinking of getting an AllDataDIY yearly sub.

Youre welcome. AllData has all the information available for the procedure. I would recommend starting there.

 

[kurt rustle]

AllData has all the information available for the procedure. I would recommend starting there.

Wow, AllData is really comprehensive. I've been going over the documentation and based on your suggestion of replacing those extra parts while in there, I'm looking at:

• Primary timing chain (5048151AA, ~$90)
• Primary timing chain guide (4893695AA, ~$20)
• Upper timing chain guide (5048150AB, ~$20)
• Timing chain tensioner (5281548AB, ~$50)
• Timing chain tensioner arm (5048152AA, ~$35)
• Threebond RTV sealant (68082860AB, ~$10)

Does that sound right or am I missing something?

 

[2019JLUS]

I heard replacing the chain and tensioner components has fixed the 2.0 ticking noise for some.

 

[PacificNorthWest]

Wow, AllData is really comprehensive. I've been going over the documentation and based on your suggestion of replacing those extra parts while in there, I'm looking at:

• Primary timing chain (5048151AA, ~$90)
• Primary timing chain guide (4893695AA, ~$20)
• Upper timing chain guide (5048150AB, ~$20)
• Timing chain tensioner (5281548AB, ~$50)
• Timing chain tensioner arm (5048152AA, ~$35)
• Threebond RTV sealant (68082860AB, ~$10)

Does that sound right or am I missing something?

I would recommend replacing your secondary chain while you’re in there, this drives your oil pump and right next to your primary chain. Also, go through each item removed and determine are there gaskets/seals/bolts that have been removed or touched. For example I don’t see valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, coolant cross pipe gasket, front crankshaft seal, crankshaft pulley bolt etc. Be thorough.

 

[kurt rustle]

@PacificNorthWest You're the best and folks like yourself is why I love this forum

Did another pass on documentation, this time reading every step in detail (making sure to catch details like "install the (...) NEW bolt on the crankshaft" ) and looking up parts; the revised list is:

Cam (primary) timing chain swap:

• Timing chain (5048151AA, ~$90)
• Timing chain guide (4893695AA, ~$20)
• Upper timing chain guide (5048150AB, ~$20)
• Timing chain tensioner (5281548AB, ~$50)
• Timing chain tensioner arm (5048152AA, ~$35)

Oil pump (secondary) drive chain swap:

• Oil pump drive chain (4893699AA, ~$100)
• Drive chain tensioner shoe (5048577AA, ~$50)
• Timing chain guide (4893702AB, ~$30)

New gaskets, bolts, etc:

• Cylinder head cover gasket (5048234AA, ~$90)
• 4x Spark plug well gasket (5048235AA, 4x ~$6)
• Crankshaft pulley bolt (06513080AA, ~$10)
• Front crankshaft oil seal (2142125000, ~$25)
• EGR valve O-ring (68385076AA, ~$5)
• Threebond RTV sealant for timing chain cover (68082860AB, ~$10)
• 2x VVT solenoid gasket (can't find these)

If you'd be so kind, I do have a couple more questions related to your experience:

1. You mentioned you didn't use specialty tools. Was the crankshaft pulley bolt easy get out without the recommended tool?
   
   
2. One of the pre-requisite steps to get the timing chain cover is the removal of the fuel injectors, to pull the cylinder head cover. There are a lot of specialty tools and at some point it states "A NEW high pressure fuel line MUST be installed any time it is disconnected." Did you go through all that?
   
   
3. I couldn't find the VVT solenoids or their gaskets at store.mopar.com Would you happen to remember how you got found/got these gaskets (assuming they must actually be removed)? Referring to these:
   
   
   

Somewhat related, how did your belts looked like at 95k? Worth a swap while I'm at it?

 

[PacificNorthWest]

@PacificNorthWest You're the best and folks like yourself is why I love this forum

Did another pass on documentation, this time reading every step in detail (making sure to catch details like "install the (...) NEW bolt on the crankshaft" ) and looking up parts; the revised list is:

Cam (primary) timing chain swap:

• Timing chain (5048151AA, ~$90)
• Timing chain guide (4893695AA, ~$20)
• Upper timing chain guide (5048150AB, ~$20)
• Timing chain tensioner (5281548AB, ~$50)
• Timing chain tensioner arm (5048152AA, ~$35)

Oil pump (secondary) drive chain swap:

• Oil pump drive chain (4893699AA, ~$100)
• Drive chain tensioner shoe (5048577AA, ~$50)
• Timing chain guide (4893702AB, ~$30)

New gaskets, bolts, etc:

• Cylinder head cover gasket (5048234AA, ~$90)
• 4x Spark plug well gasket (5048235AA, 4x ~$6)
• Crankshaft pulley bolt (06513080AA, ~$10)
• Front crankshaft oil seal (2142125000, ~$25)
• EGR valve O-ring (68385076AA, ~$5)
• Threebond RTV sealant for timing chain cover (68082860AB, ~$10)
• 2x VVT solenoid gasket (can't find these)

If you'd be so kind, I do have a couple more questions related to your experience:

1. You mentioned you didn't use specialty tools. Was the crankshaft pulley bolt easy get out without the recommended tool?
   
   
2. One of the pre-requisite steps to get the timing chain cover is the removal of the fuel injectors, to pull the cylinder head cover. There are a lot of specialty tools and at some point it states "A NEW high pressure fuel line MUST be installed any time it is disconnected." Did you go through all that?
   
   
3. I couldn't find the VVT solenoids or their gaskets at store.mopar.com Would you happen to remember how you got found/got these gaskets (assuming they must actually be removed)? Referring to these:
   
   
   

Somewhat related, how did your belts looked like at 95k? Worth a swap while I'm at it?

Not a problem. To answer your questions.

1. Ok so I should recant my previous statement regarding the requirement of specialty tools, my apologies as this has been some time. The crank pulley does require a specialty tool for installation but removal you can get by without it, and I wouldn’t say this process is easy but possible. I’m a former Porsche technician and before that Audi so much of tools that I have I consider standard which could be considered speciality to others. You’ll need at minimum a 1/2” impact to remove the bolt. To install you will need a crank pulley wrench and it will take two people due to the significant torque required. My recommendation is if you can’t source the crank pulley wrench and torque wrench to handle the tighten torque, perform all work except this aspect and tow it to a shop or dealer and pay to have them perform this last task.

2. Yes the fuel injector seals are something that should be replaced especially with the age when being removed you. Also take this time to bench clean the injectors. You will need a resizing kit. This essentially is a set of dies that allows you to resize down the new seal once you have stretches it over the injector and into place. Without performing this you will damage the new seal during installation. As for the new fuel line, yes replace this, its is a one time use line.

Another option, you could take the injectors to a shop and have them perform this for you.

3. I‘ll have to do some digging. These are easy enough replace down the road if you cant source gaskets now.

Just food for thought and speaking from experience. look at some other items while in there and with the mileage. The AOS gasket is an easy fail point. Mine was unfortunately leaking so I was going to pull it regardless but it also aloud for a reason to pull the intake and clean the intercooler out of all the oil blow bye. Also water pump is right there, good excuse to replace that if you haven’t replaced it yet in its life.

 

[kurt rustle]

Brilliant, really appreciate all the details.

Can’t thank you enough, mate.

 

[JAMMANICA]

I'm reviving this old thread because it seems to be the only one on the internet that shows the actual 2.0T!

I replaced an intake cam phaser and the control valve, I did mark the timing chain at the arrows where it connects to the cam phasers and it looks exactly like the picture above in the OP's (PacificNorthWest) post.

My problem is I cannot find the correct cam locking tool, the exhaust cam wants to "rest" about 2 teeth off from the intake cam.
I can get the 2 gears aligned but I'm always one tooth at the crank off because I only have 2 hands and no help so I need the tool.

I can only find the tool for the 3.6 and all searches for 2.0 or 2.0T land me on a GM or VW. Does anyone have the part number for the locking tool?

I usually can find what I need but this 2.0 is like a ghost engine.

Thanks, I'll start a thread on the journey that brought me here.

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