Spacer lift- What else needed?

[ejewels]

Extensions can be added later if needed. I’d call it safe insurance to install now to retain your current ride quality, but only you will be able to tell how it rides without them. It’s pretty subjective. I added longer shocks, longer sway bar links, and the Mopar LCA’s to maintain (improve?) the OE geometry/ride quality. Yes, a complete spring lift was an option, but I (I.e, my garage door opening) needed no more than 2” and the spacer lift made the most sense for my application.

I could be wrong, but I think my rubi shocks are longer than your stock saharas, so makes sense you had to do that stuff? Sorry if I'm all over the place and asking questions... I'm new to jeeps and their suspension!

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[GATORB8]

Need to do both what? I'm getting confused here now lol. I thought I'm good since I'm on a willys and not a rubi (springs/height) shock-length wise? But now it seems people are saying I could still add the extensions? Also QD endlinks? Not even sure what those do lol. I'm also paying for installs, so not trying to kill the bank. The jeep shop isn't cheap since they are well known and do good work around here. So I don't want to skimp out on anything, but also don't want to keep adding stuff for them to do and for me to buy if not really necessary lol

If you do shock extensions on the stock shocks, you need to do bump stop extensions at the same time.

For the best ride and flex off road, you'll want to disconnect the stock swaybar on your Willy's (the Rubi's have an electronic button for this). Without Quick Disconnects (QD) you'll need to unbolt the lower sway bar endlink bolts and zip tie them out of the way. QDs have a pull pin and bracket to make that easier. Endlinks are two bolts/nuts each times two endlinks, can be done on the ground.

 

[ejewels]

If you do shock extensions on the stock shocks, you need to do bump stop extensions at the same time.

For the best ride and flex off road, you'll want to disconnect the stock swaybar on your Willy's (the Rubi's have an electronic button for this). Without Quick Disconnects (QD) you'll need to unbolt the lower sway bar endlink bolts and zip tie them out of the way. QDs have a pull pin and bracket to make that easier. Endlinks are two bolts/nuts each times two endlinks, can be done on the ground.

Oh ok, I see the convenience QD thing now, thanks. I prob will just wait on that since it seems installable on the ground.

At this point I just want to know if I need to order those extensions and then bump stops. I don't want to lose much travel on my suspension and it seems having the rubi shocks might help with that. BUT if my ride will be really limited in travel and not good for my shocks, obviously I'd pay more to get the extensions and bump stops.

 

[whoisphilli]

what would I look for to feel this "topping out"? Definitely doesn't sound good lol.

When you go over any pronounced ridge or crest in the road (like a speed bump or a level to steep downwards parking garage joint) you will feel the shocks hitting their fully extended position as the suspension extends.

 

[GATORB8]

For an exagerated visual example of what topped out and bottomed out mean.

In this picture my driver front shock is "topped out" and my passenger front shock is "bottomed out" (on the bump stops in my case).

If the jeep was hanging on a two post lift, both sides would be topped. If I took the springs out and put it on the ground, they'd be bottomed.

 

[GATORB8]

For an exagerated visual example of what topped out and bottomed out mean.

In this picture my driver front shock is "topped out" and my passenger front shock is "bottomed out" (on the bump stops in my case).

If the jeep was hanging on a two post lift, both sides would be topped. If I took the springs out and put it on the ground, they'd be bottomed.

Where you normally sit in between these two extremes is your ride height, that is basically all you are adjusting with your spacers (or if you replace the springs). Your ride height determines if the available travel is on the up side or down side.

With just spacers, your Jeep will flex exactly the same as you do now, you could pull on this trailer and it would look the exact same before and after. If you add 2" shock extensions and 2" bump extensions, you will move both top and bottom of the travel down 2". So you will not flex more, you will flex the same but with the whole assembly lower (further from the frame) 2".

Hope that makes sense.

EDIT: and for disconnecting the sway bar, the sway bar would prevent you from flexing as much, so with one tire up it would keep you from getting all the way to top and bottom.

 

[ejewels]

Where you normally sit in between these two extremes is your ride height, that is basically all you are adjusting with your spacers (or if you replace the springs). Your ride height determines if the available travel is on the up side or down side.

With just spacers, your Jeep will flex exactly the same as you do now, you could pull on this trailer and it would look the exact same before and after. If you add 2" shock extensions and 2" bump extensions, you will move both top and bottom of the travel down 2". So you will not flex more, you will flex the same but with the whole assembly lower (further from the frame) 2".

Hope that makes sense.

EDIT: and for disconnecting the sway bar, the sway bar would prevent you from flexing as much, so with one tire up it would keep you from getting all the way to top and bottom.

I get it now, thanks for the visual representation... that helps a lot. So whats the consensus in my situation then? I thought you had said my rubi shocks should be long enough, but another poster seemed to imply the ride might feel worse and I might top out easy over speed bumps. I would think the longer rubi shocks would negate most of that? I'm only going 1.5" all around so hoping I'm OK.

 

[Jtphoto]

I did a spacer lift on my daughters JL
As she really doesn’t go off-road much. I strongly suggest spacer lifts to anyone that does wheel much more then service roads. You can always upgrade down the road if you get more interested and want to do more aggressive trails. Spacers is a very simple way to get an extra inch or 2 without messy up your ride quality.
The most complete spacer lift kits like TeraFlex come with coil spacers, bumpstop extensions, shock extensions (or new shocks), and brake line relocation brackets.
If you go with 2-2.5” spacers, Geometry correction brackets will allow you to dial the caster back in rather then the Mopar lower control arms but either or will work.

 

[Jtphoto]

The XR comes factory with 1.5” lift but still. Has the same factory control arms as the other Wranglers. So just going up 1.5” for you really doesn’t matter to much. Your Rubi shocks will be just fine.

 

[GATORB8]

I get it now, thanks for the visual representation... that helps a lot. So whats the consensus in my situation then? I thought you had said my rubi shocks should be long enough, but another poster seemed to imply the ride might feel worse and I might top out easy over speed bumps. I would think the longer rubi shocks would negate most of that? I'm only going 1.5" all around so hoping I'm OK.

If you do not have clearance issues currently, I would not do extensions. If you do top out consistently, I would replace the shocks with a set that can use the stock bumps and add downtravel, likely improving ride quality and increasing flex at the same time, with a relatively easy at home on the ground install for not that much more cost than having bump stops and shock extensions purchased and installed.

 

[Jtphoto]

As long as he isn’t going with taller tires I agree.
The only point of bumpstops is fender clearance for bigger tires so they don’t rip off the fenders. But then the only point of a lift is so you can run bigger tires otherwise it’s not required. He can achieve increased droop by simply adding MC RockSport long travel shocks that have the same collapsed length as stock Rubi shocks yet extend a fair bit longer..

 

[ejewels]

thanks guys, yeah I'm sticking with my rubi tires (33 ko2). If I wanted 35s and all, I'd just do a proper lift and save up.

 

[ejewels]

If you do not have clearance issues currently, I would not do extensions. If you do top out consistently, I would replace the shocks with a set that can use the stock bumps and add downtravel, likely improving ride quality and increasing flex at the same time, with a relatively easy at home on the ground install for not that much more cost than having bump stops and shock extensions purchased and installed.

sorry if this is dumb but how would i know if I have clearance issues now? I don't do any serious off roading or stuffing tires so I've never really tested it. Also, wouldn't the fact that I have the rubi shocks make it less likely to top out easy? I think thats what I'm getting caught up on understanding.

 

[Jtphoto]

thanks guys, yeah I'm sticking with my rubi tires (33 ko2). If I wanted 35s and all, I'd just do a proper lift and save up.

If you are happy with that then just throw in 1.5” spacers. That’s all you need. You can add to it later

 

[Jtphoto]

sorry if this is dumb but how would i know if I have clearance issues now? I don't do any serious off roading or stuffing tires so I've never really tested it. Also, wouldn't the fact that I have the rubi shocks make it less likely to top out easy? I think thats what I'm getting caught up on understanding.

In this case Bumpstops go with shock extensions and factory shocks. It protects the shocks from bottoming out before the Bumpstops hit. Just putting in coil spacers doesn’t affect this. If you don’t put in shock extensions you don’t need bumpstop extensions.

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