Total Wrangler Noob Here (Looking for Advice)

[GearWhore]

I think I see where you're going, and what you're trying to do with this build. Sounds like you're coming from the Taco and offroad world anyway, so you have a pretty good idea about what you're getting into.

As others have suggested, if you're thinking you want to add lockers and 35s, step up to a Rubicon. I know not everyone can make that $6-9k jump, but if you deduct your planned mods (with labor) you're most of the way there. Stock 33s with the JLR chasis is already much more capable than you realize at first. You can upsize to 35s for just the cost of tires when the stockers wear out. You'll get the in-cab swaybar disconnect (spoiled me! you'll use it all the time). You'll get stronger axles, lower gear ratio (no re-gear costs or complexities), higher fenders, and a warranty on all of it. Likely also retain the desirability/resale if/when you want to move on.

If you do stick with the Willys Sport (still awesome), look elsewhere for more complete and tunable suspension systems than the Mopar lift (for similar $). I've been really happy with my MetalCloak 2.5, but there are a lot of good reviews of the systems by Clayton, AccuTune, and more. Look for a kit with adjustable front lower control arms at least. Front track bar is next, and rear track bar after that. Most kits will come with swaybar extensions or disconnects. Watch front driveshaft angles and contact points when articulating if going over 2-2.5" of lift.

You probably don't need the steering stabilizer, even with 35s (until you bash it on a rock; it is exposed).

Finally, not sure where you ordered from, but if you haven't contacted Steve Boeckmann at Jim Butler in Linn, MO, I highly suggest giving him a call. Recommended through the forum here and also personal experience. He offered best pricing in the country when I was looking to order my JL in 2020, and same when we ordered my dad's JT through him last year.

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[TylerV76]

You should consider exchanging for a rubicon, comes standard with 4.10's and lockers, sway bar disconnect? I think it will fit 35's w/o mods.

Only a few bucks more and since you're going to wheel it, you will actually use those features.
Spending a little more up front will actually save you coin in the long run.

Disclaimer: I am really good at spending money.

I saved 10k doing the upgrades to a sport rather than buying a Rubicon. The only thing I wont have is the electronic swaybar disconnect so I went with quick connects. Take 1500 off if I swap the transfer case.

Ive broken it down somewhere before but after all the mods I would have done to a Rubi that I did to my sport and adding the rubi axles and lockers, its like $10,200 cheaper than the rubi I almost bought and way more fun.

 

[tshaw2009]

I think I see where you're going, and what you're trying to do with this build. Sounds like you're coming from the Taco and offroad world anyway, so you have a pretty good idea about what you're getting into.

As others have suggested, if you're thinking you want to add lockers and 35s, step up to a Rubicon. I know not everyone can make that $6-9k jump, but if you deduct your planned mods (with labor) you're most of the way there. Stock 33s with the JLR chasis is already much more capable than you realize at first. You can upsize to 35s for just the cost of tires when the stockers wear out. You'll get the in-cab swaybar disconnect (spoiled me! you'll use it all the time). You'll get stronger axles, lower gear ratio (no re-gear costs or complexities), higher fenders, and a warranty on all of it. Likely also retain the desirability/resale if/when you want to move on.

If you do stick with the Willys Sport (still awesome), look elsewhere for more complete and tunable suspension systems than the Mopar lift (for similar $). I've been really happy with my MetalCloak 2.5, but there are a lot of good reviews of the systems by Clayton, AccuTune, and more. Look for a kit with adjustable front lower control arms at least. Front track bar is next, and rear track bar after that. Most kits will come with swaybar extensions or disconnects. Watch front driveshaft angles and contact points when articulating if going over 2-2.5" of lift.

You probably don't need the steering stabilizer, even with 35s (until you bash it on a rock; it is exposed).

Finally, not sure where you ordered from, but if you haven't contacted Steve Boeckmann at Jim Butler in Linn, MO, I highly suggest giving him a call. Recommended through the forum here and also personal experience. He offered best pricing in the country when I was looking to order my JL in 2020, and same when we ordered my dad's JT through him last year.

Do you think an order already submitted can be transferred to a different dealer if I decide to switch to Jim Butler?

 

[GearWhore]

Do you think an order already submitted can be transferred to a different dealer if I decide to switch to Jim Butler?

Do you have $ down for the order?

You can always call or email and see what Steve says. He was really responsive to both in my experience, but phone will probably get you answers more quickly.

 

[tshaw2009]

Do you have $ down for the order?

You can always call or email and see what Steve says. He was really responsive to both in my experience, but phone will probably get you answers more quickly.

No deposit was required for my order.

 

[JeepNYak]

Howdy everyone! I have a 2023 Wrangler Willys Sport 2-Door (2.0L Turbo) in Sarge Green on order. I have used the search function on this forum to find as much info as I can and what can I say except that I'm still quite confused. I want to build this Jeep into a weekend warrior rig/daily driver that can withstand moderate to somewhat difficult off-roading. I want to be able to run 35s and still have enough room that scrubbing the fenders under compression won't be an issue. This is the current build that I have put together. Please let me know if you guys have any better suggestions that may be more budget friendly than my current goal. Afterall I'm not made of money (I got a Willys Sport after all). Several years down the road, I would like to run a compressor and add a rear locker. I really would like to not regear if at all possible. I would also like to retain as close to a factory steering feel as possible. Sorry guys, I'm coming from IFS my whole life besides an old Cherokee Sport so I'm trying to learn.

MOPAR 2 inch kit w/Fox Shocks: $1,695
Rock Krawler Adjustable Front Track Bar: $264.75
Fox Steering Stabilizer: $157.16
JKS Quick Disconnects: $194.64
BFG T/A K02 315/70R17 X5: $1969.95
Total: $4,281.50 before labor and taxes

Congrats! I was new Jeep owner in 2020 & got the 4dr Willy's. Loved it. Traded up to Sarge Rubicon this yr. But u should check out Apex Design sway bar disconnect. I got the Teraflex ones first since they don't require any cutting. Worked fine. But when Apex released the Autolynx, I bought em asap. Just turn a knob. So much easier. No having to find level ground to reconnect. They were one of my fav mods. Check them out. Cost more than JKS or others but look amazing & after not having to waste time putting cotter pins back in all the times u will see the value.

https://www.apexdesignsusa.com/collections/all/products/autolynx-sway-bar-disconnect

 

[tshaw2009]

Congrats! I was new Jeep owner in 2020 & got the 4dr Willy's. Loved it. Traded up to Sarge Rubicon this yr. But u should check out Apex Design sway bar disconnect. I got the Teraflex ones first since they don't require any cutting. Worked fine. But when Apex released the Autolynx, I bought em asap. Just turn a knob. So much easier. No having to find level ground to reconnect. They were one of my fav mods. Check them out. Cost more than JKS or others but look amazing & after not having to waste time putting cotter pins back in all the times u will see the value.

https://www.apexdesignsusa.com/collections/all/products/autolynx-sway-bar-disconnect

Thanks! I will definitely look into those. I'm all about working smarter and not harder.

 

[Iggy]

Though the 35s look cool, they weigh a lot and hurt fuel mileage. That turns into a bad decision each time you buy fuel. The D44 with limited slip on the Willys will be your best friend!

Oh, that 2" MOPAR lift raises a JLU (4-door) 2.5-3.0". Your 2-door will go up 3.0-3.5". That means you'll need upgraded driveshafts due to increased shaft angles, an adjustable front trackbar, longer sway bar links, adjustable bumps stops. Research a bunch before you commit.

The very first thing you should get for your beauty is a 3" 30' tow strap with a couple of d-rings. That way, when you get stuck, you can ask someone to give you help out of your jam. No strap = no help.

Airing down is the next most important thing. Get a good tire pressure gauge then get a Smittybilt 2781 air compressor until you can afford an ARB dual pump.

Extra water, a folding GI shovel (a real one, not one copied in China), gloves, an emergency blanket...

Have fun. Be safe. Get home in one piece.

 

[TylerV76]

…Oh, that 2" MOPAR lift raises a JLU (4-door) 2.5-3.0". Your 2-door will go up 3.0-3.5". That means you'll need upgraded driveshafts due to increased shaft angles, an adjustable front trackbar, longer sway bar links, adjustable bumps stops. Research a bunch before you commit.

The Mopar lift comes with new sway bar links and bump stops.

The driveshaft bit is debatable. I didnt replace mine and have had no issues. In fact, I dont think most people running this lift have. This lift would be the max I’d go before doing so.

 

[Chrismeece74]

I would say before you go adding everything for steering improvements, get the lift installed and drive it first. Everyone assumes they need to add a steering stabilizer and everything else, reality is you usually don't. I put the Mopar lift and 35s on my Gladiator and have had no issues with steering or ride at all.

 

[Iggy]

The Mopar lift comes with new sway bar links and bump stops.

The driveshaft bit is debatable. I didnt replace mine and have had no issues. In fact, I dont think most people running this lift have. This lift would be the max I’d go before doing so.

Probably for your JLU the driveshaft angles aren't severe at 2.5-3.0" of lift, but the JL wheelbase is shorter and anything over a 2.0" lift creates potential binding of the rear shaft bearing. The front becomes questionable soon thereafter.

The MOPAR lift is notorious for being a bit understated for lift height. On JLUs most owners report higher than the nominal 2" lift. The JLs will nearly always lift an additional inch over what a JLU lift is so a 3.0" lift with the MOPAR kit on a JL is expected.

I spoke with the owner of Poly Performance who also owns Synergy Mfr. Their springs generally lift a JL a full inch higher than what the same spring will lift a JLU. I've heard the same from Clayton and Rock Krawler. At a 3.0" lift, the JL (due to its shorter wheelbase) is right where a driveshaft upgrade begins to be wise.

I'm not wanting to rain on anyone's parade; just trying to share some of my experience. YMMV.

 

[Iggy]

I would say before you go adding everything for steering improvements, get the lift installed and drive it first. Everyone assumes they need to add a steering stabilizer and everything else, reality is you usually don't. I put the Mopar lift and 35s on my Gladiator and have had no issues with steering or ride at all.

The JL has a much shorter wheelbase than your JT Gladiator does. Your 137.3" wheelbase makes a world of difference in handling and reduced severity of driveshaft angles. The MOPAR 2" lift and 35s on your JT would be a beautiful combo, needing nothing much else except a dirt trail. That same MOPAR kit and 35s on a JL with its 98.6" (28% shorter) wheelbase is a whole other story.

 

[Chrismeece74]

The JL has a much shorter wheelbase than your JT Gladiator does. Your 137.3" wheelbase makes a world of difference in handling and reduced severity of driveshaft angles. The MOPAR 2" lift and 35s on your JT would be a beautiful combo, needing nothing much else except a dirt trail. That same MOPAR kit and 35s on a JL with its 98.6" (28% shorter) wheelbase is a whole other story.

I agree, all I meant was for OP to drive it after the lift to see if anything else is needed. No point in spending money that may or may not need to be spent.

 

[InVinoVeritasty]

You can pick up a used Rubicon front sway bar for a couple hundred bucks and put a manual disconnect knob on it. The Rubicon sway bar is substantially beefier than the Sport sway bar that comes on the Willys. I think this is a worthy, inexpensive upgrade for a Willys. In the video, he has to grind a notch out of the bar b/c he is using a JK bar on a JL. A JL Rubicon sway bar is a simple install on your JL Willys.

 

[sebythellama]

Howdy everyone! I have a 2023 Wrangler Willys Sport 2-Door (2.0L Turbo) in Sarge Green on order. I have used the search function on this forum to find as much info as I can and what can I say except that I'm still quite confused. I want to build this Jeep into a weekend warrior rig/daily driver that can withstand moderate to somewhat difficult off-roading. I want to be able to run 35s and still have enough room that scrubbing the fenders under compression won't be an issue. This is the current build that I have put together. Please let me know if you guys have any better suggestions that may be more budget friendly than my current goal. Afterall I'm not made of money (I got a Willys Sport after all). Several years down the road, I would like to run a compressor and add a rear locker. I really would like to not regear if at all possible. I would also like to retain as close to a factory steering feel as possible. Sorry guys, I'm coming from IFS my whole life besides an old Cherokee Sport so I'm trying to learn.

MOPAR 2 inch kit w/Fox Shocks: $1,440.08
Rock Krawler Adjustable Front Track Bar: $264.75
Fox Steering Stabilizer: $199.95
JKS Quick Disconnects: $194.64
BFG T/A K02 315/70R17 X5: $2,024.95
Total: $4,124.37 before labor and taxes

Congrats on the new Wrangler! Your list looks good, the one thing I'd recommend is the Rock Krawler Flex System 2.5" kit. It may seem pricier at first (I got mine for around $2000 from @River City Offroad), but you get everything you need with the kit, including new LCAs, bump stop extensions, a new track bar and a bracket for the rear, as well as the quick disconnects for the sway bar. I liked just getting the kit rather than having to piece it together separately, and what's awesome is that the LCAs and track bar are adjustable so you can keep them should you ever want to go taller in the future. I got mine with the TT shocks and have no complaints.

Also, to echo what @TylerV76 said, 315s on 3.45s are not bad at all, at least for the two doors, especially with the 2.0 and 8sp auto. Ideal? No, but it is still totally drivable and punchy. I'm even getting better MPGs on my 315 KO2s than I was on my old take-off 285 Wildpeak Mt's!

However, I also see the merit in just waiting for a bit or doing some less expensive upgrades, like Rubi suspension, etc. Before I went to 315's and the RK lift I had take-off Rubi tires and suspension and it was awesome, all for about $1300 all in. And that was on my Sport S, since you already have the Willy's tires you're all set there already. What was also fun and weirdly gratifying about taking my time was being able to see how the upgrades actually made it more capable on a gradual level, i.e going from the 33's to 35's and from the Rubi lift to the RK kit.

That said, can't deny the fun of going straight for a more modded set-up. Enjoy!

Some photos for reference:

Stock:

Rubi Stuff:

Now:

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