Replacing Radiator Myself -- Questions

[mbspark]

I have the radiator leak issue going on. Warranty expired this year, so I'm just going to replace on my own. I've noticed there is no real write-up or video regarding the replacement on these JL's. I figure there will be more of us needing this information as us early adopters hit the 4+ year mark.

Anyone have any advice, hints, tricks on replacing the radiator (before I get started)?

I've come across this helpful statement from another thread:

"The only things that get disconnected for the removal are the intake air system, fan and hoses to radiator. Nothing else gets removed ."

I'm not one for making YouTube videos or doing extensive write-ups, or otherwise I would do that here in the next week or so. I will add to this thread though with things I experience along the way.

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[mdkautzman]

Cool. Your making the first video! LOL
Just take your time. Pull the grill off and start looking at what's in the way and remove the parts. It's all just like a big puzzle. Study, take pics and have fun.

 

[jaymz]

"The only things that get disconnected for the removal are the intake air system, fan and hoses to radiator. Nothing else gets removed ."

Having recently replaced the radiator in my Rubicon, I can say with certainty that the above statement is incorrect. The grill and headlights will need to come out as well.

 

[gsbrockman]

Be sure to source a good quality replacement radiator.

Be sure to use the correct spec’d coolant, preferably of the MoPar variety. Buy the concentrate and mix 50/50 with distilled water.

If your JL is anything similar to the wife’s Grand Cherokee.....the a/c condenser is attached to the radiator on one side, the cooling fan motor on the other. It can be a bit tricky separating the two as well as reassembling the two.

 

[mbspark]

Be sure to source a good quality replacement radiator.

Anyone have brands they recommend beyond OEM? In my GC I just went with the chain store brands, but obviously the wrangler gets driven harder in tougher situations. I'm fine spending the extra $100-200 if needed.

 

[Pinion]

Drain it, take off the hoses, take it out.

Get an all aluminum radiator. Don't get one with the plastic parts.

 

[mwilk012]

There aren’t any aftermarket options. Just replace with an oem. It’s like 120 dollars. Buy pre mixed coolant, no need to dig up distilled water.

If you look up other threads on the problem, there are replacement instructions from the service manual posted. Not much more to add really.

 

[cs2k]

There is this aftermarket option from cold-case

https://www.coldcaseradiators.com/product/18-20-jeep-wrangler-jl-aluminum-performance-radiator

 

[mwilk012]

There is this aftermarket option from cold-case

https://www.coldcaseradiators.com/product/18-20-jeep-wrangler-jl-aluminum-performance-radiator

I’ll trust it when a real human buys and reviews it for fitment.

 

[Big AL 471]

I’ll trust it when a real human buys and reviews it for fitment.

I found my own radiator was leaking on the driver side where the plastic tank meets the core. Found a cold case radiator, it works well. I only have about 200 miles with it. It was a decent fit, the plastic trim on top of the radiator had to be trimmed some due to the thicker core of the new one but everything fit well and works great. I ran it in my garage at idle for 15 mins or so when refilling, watch the temp gage. It went up to 210ish and the fan kicked on and immediately dropped back to 186.
The tanks are stamped aluminum and tig welded to the core. The only problem I had was one of the mounting bungs for the a/c condenser was half full from welding. I drilled it out and got it to work. Mine also came with 0 bolts, it was just the rad and some stickers. No instructions. I believe I used #6 metric bolts and some washers and tread locker for mounting. Save the isolators on the mounts from the old radiator and the two mounting bolts associated those still work but all the screws the go into the plastic tanks on the oem do not work with the new aluminum mounting points.

 

[mwilk012]

I found my own radiator was leaking on the driver side where the plastic tank meets the core. Found a cold case radiator, it works well. I only have about 200 miles with it. It was a decent fit, the plastic trim on top of the radiator had to be trimmed some due to the thicker core of the new one but everything fit well and works great. I ran it in my garage at idle for 15 mins or so when refilling, watch the temp gage. It went up to 210ish and the fan kicked on and immediately dropped back to 186.
The tanks are stamped aluminum and tig welded to the core. The only problem I had was one of the mounting bungs for the a/c condenser was half full from welding. I drilled it out and got it to work. Mine also came with 0 bolts, it was just the rad and some stickers. No instructions. I believe I used #6 metric bolts and some washers and tread locker for mounting. Save the isolators on the mounts from the old radiator and the two mounting bolts associated those still work but all the screws the go into the plastic tanks on the oem do not work with the new aluminum mounting points.

sorry that’s not good enough for me then. At that price point I can put 3-4 radiators in.

 

[cs2k]

I found my own radiator was leaking on the driver side where the plastic tank meets the core. Found a cold case radiator, it works well. I only have about 200 miles with it. It was a decent fit, the plastic trim on top of the radiator had to be trimmed some due to the thicker core of the new one but everything fit well and works great. I ran it in my garage at idle for 15 mins or so when refilling, watch the temp gage. It went up to 210ish and the fan kicked on and immediately dropped back to 186.
The tanks are stamped aluminum and tig welded to the core. The only problem I had was one of the mounting bungs for the a/c condenser was half full from welding. I drilled it out and got it to work. Mine also came with 0 bolts, it was just the rad and some stickers. No instructions. I believe I used #6 metric bolts and some washers and tread locker for mounting. Save the isolators on the mounts from the old radiator and the two mounting bolts associated those still work but all the screws the go into the plastic tanks on the oem do not work with the new aluminum mounting points.

Thank you for sharing your experiences. Performance wise, do you notice that it cools better than the stock unit as they claim on their website?

 

[EbyCreek]

Has anyone needed to use a radiator vacuum refill kit or have you been able to just bleed the air out of the system?

 

[areuriding]

Mishimoto is a solid choice. Expensive but top quality.

 

[gsbrockman]

Has anyone needed to use a radiator vacuum refill kit or have you been able to just bleed the air out of the system?

I recently replaced the radiator in my wife’s 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited w/3.6L. Like so many others I read about....the left side tanks began to seep coolant, a little more noticeable after a short run for some grub one week.

In any event.....there is a nice bleeder screw on the GC near the thermostat housing; I’d imagine there’s a decent chance most other 3.6L engines in other applications have it as well.

It probably all boils down to where the highest point of the cooling system is located if it has the bleeder. If no bleeder...the reservoir should allow it to burp ok. There is also a bleeder on the 5.7L V8, good chance the 6.4L has one near the water pump, too.

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