Upstream O2 sensor replacement

[plastrd]

Got a couple instances of code P1128 this winter when it was really cold and the one thread in this part of the forum about it had some mixed luck replacing the upstream O2 sensor (Mopar 68217019AA). For reference I have a 2021 with 72k miles.
Received the replacement sensor and an O2 sensor socket set that was also recommended and planning to tackle it tomorrow morning. There's a distinct lack of repair guides on the 2.0 so I wanted to make sure this is as easy as it looks before I break something before our road trip Sunday.

So as far as I can see the sensor (circled in red) is screwed into the exhaust just after the turbo. It's surrounded by a heat shield with at least two screws circled in blue. Will the heat shield need to be removed to get the socket on the sensor and remove/replace it? If so, anything else that needs to come out to get access to any more screws?
Is this going to be easier to remove with a cold exhaust or hot and what level of pucker factor am I looking at with regard to risk of snapping the sensor off? I know typical exhaust manifold studs are good for that due to the heat exposure so want to make this as painless as possible.
If I make it this far, any particular torque spec for the new one or just make it guten tight?

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[58Willys]

Any other codes or just the P1128? Usually if an O2 sensor is the issue you will get others codes as well. You have one so swap it.

I haven’t done a 2.0, but usually the socket will fit through the heat shield. Definitely warm engine up a bit, not full operating temp, maybe a 1-2 min lap around the block; then pull sensor. Don’t attempt it on a cold manifold.

 

[cosunrise]

Might be too late for you, but there are another two nuts on the firewall/firewall block corner of that heat shield. The ones on the wheel well side and the back corner(block/firewall) were too corroded to come off on my '18 and the heat shield eventually just broke holes around those two fastening points as I worked to get them loose.

If you're comfortable snipping the wire harness on the O2 sensor and just using a 22mm deep well socket (or if you own one of those fancy O2 sensor sockets) you do not need to remove the heat shield. A 6 point is probably preferable... My deep well set is 12 point so I opted to remove the heat shield and get a regular wrench on it. I've rounded out one too many O2 sensors over the years to take a chance.

 

[plastrd]

It was snowing the morning after I posted so haven't tackled it yet.
I did buy the O2 socket set that was referenced in another thread and after watching a handful of YouTube videos of other sensors being removed with various beatings and heat I think that will have been a good investment.
I'll post an update once I finally get to it in an upcoming weekend hopefully without snow or rain to bring some closure.

 

[XxsullyxX123]

Late to this thread, but my random P1128 at 20k miles (33k miles ago) was the only code and ended up being just the upstream O2 sensor. You probably read that thread though. good luck, it should be an easy swap.

 

[plastrd]

Finally brought this saga to an uneventful close.
Decided to try on a cold engine and used my new 18" 3/8 cheater bar with the offset O2 sensor socket.
Removed the engine cover to get some room, climbed up on the bumper to get close, and then just leaned hard on the bar. It made a *tink* as it broke loose and then it was loose enough to spin off with my fingers so no thread galling or damage.
Old sensor was black with soot which google-fu tells me is a rich running condition.

Be careful with the connector at the end. Use a small screwdriver to gently lift the red tab on the sensor end while you use your thumb to pull the red tab out a click from the engine side. When you go to press the now-unlocked release tab and pull the connector apart you're still going to need a screwdriver underneath the tab that your thumb pressure is supposed to be releasing because it's old and brittle. If you do it right it'll come right apart.

The new one was precoated with anti-seize so threaded it in by hand and finished up with 30ft-lbs per the average Google result for O2 sensor torque specs. Plugged in to the engine connector and put the plastic cover back on.
Started up like normal and went for a ride around the block with no new issues. It hasn't thrown that original code since January so will probably have to see if that was actually the fix next winter.

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