Teraflex adjustable tire carrier installation tailgate bolt torque

[Chrisazm]

Hi all,
Am I missing something? The mopar tire carrier instructions say 13 ft lbs for the eight 13 mm bolts. The Teraflex directions say 25 ft lbs for the same bolts. The first go around I did the 25 and broke one bolt and stretched another. I replaced all of the bolts at a cost of $50 and broke another one at 25 ft lbs. This is when I checked the torque on the Mopar directions. Anyone else breaking bolts on this one?

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[THAW]

Yes, there have been multiple forum reports of the same issue.

I broke one bolt trying to get it to 25 ft-lbs. Then used 13 ft-lbs for all the bolts and they've stayed in spec for a year.

 

[Gangplank]

I installed mine to 25 ft-lb without issue. It did seem like overkill at the time. My bigger issue was with the strange bike heads they used for some of the hardware that holds the carrier to the base. I recommend a 12 pt socket as my 6 point slipped when trying to torque it to their spec. I’m not planning to go bigger on tires so it should be a non-issue.

 

[Chrisazm]

I installed mine to 25 ft-lb without issue. It did seem like overkill at the time. My bigger issue was with the strange bike heads they used for some of the hardware that holds the carrier to the base. I recommend a 12 pt socket as my 6 point slipped when trying to torque it to their spec. I’m not planning to go bigger on tires so it should be a non-issue.

The 12 point bolts allow for greater torque on the bolt than other head types. I used a hammer and a torx socket the first time. I stripped the bolts pretty good then I ordered new bolts from Teraflex and a 13mm 12 point socket off Amazon for $1.50. The directions could mention that socket specifically since it doesn’t seem like a standard car or truck tool. Anyway I replaced the bolts without issue and I appreciate the fast service from Teraflex on the new bolts.

 

[Grey24Rubi]

I torqued them or I should say tried to torque them like the instructions said using my torque wrench. I snugged them all up by hand then switched over to using my torque wrench and as I was tightening I kept waiting for the click but it never happened then all of a sudden pop and it broke the bolt. My first reaction was what the hell so I checked the setting on it and it was set correctly so I moved on to the next bolt. Same deal it just never seemed to get tight and instead of stopping my dumbass kept going then I get another pop. This time my reaction was much angrier with a WTF followed by SOB!!!

My guess is that thin rubber piece between the mount and the metal of the door is slowly compressing and even though the bolts are getting tight that rubber piece or maybe it's the thin ass metal of the rear door/tailgate whatever you choose to call it is compressing just enough as you tighten the bolts it doesn't give the torque wrench that firm tightness to make it click or maybe it's because they use such junky cheap shit bolts and instead of tightening up they just keep stretching till they break.

I even got my other torque wrench out to confirm the one I was using wasn't the problem and they both clicked on a test bolt I used at the exact same setting.

After breaking two and being pissed off I stopped using a torque wrench and just tightened them up by feel with a ratchet.

 

[bcupton]

I agree with previous posts. More than once I've "screwed" up by attempting to torq to specs. I now tighten to "feel". And OBTW my torque wrenches are calibrated and pretty expensive.

 

[Chrisazm]

I torqued them or I should say tried to torque them like the instructions said using my torque wrench. I snugged them all up by hand then switched over to using my torque wrench and as I was tightening I kept waiting for the click but it never happened then all of a sudden pop and it broke the bolt. My first reaction was what the hell so I checked the setting on it and it was set correctly so I moved on to the next bolt. Same deal it just never seemed to get tight and instead of stopping my dumbass kept going then I get another pop. This time my reaction was much angrier with a WTF followed by SOB!!!

My guess is that thin rubber piece between the mount and the metal of the door is slowly compressing and even though the bolts are getting tight that rubber piece or maybe it's the thin ass metal of the rear door/tailgate whatever you choose to call it is compressing just enough as you tighten the bolts it doesn't give the torque wrench that firm tightness to make it click or maybe it's because they use such junky cheap shit bolts and instead of tightening up they just keep stretching till they break.

I even got my other torque wrench out to confirm the one I was using wasn't the problem and they both clicked on a test bolt I used at the exact same setting.

After breaking two and being pissed off I stopped using a torque wrench and just tightened them up by feel with a ratchet.

So the issue here is the amount of friction that the threads in the tailgate provide to the bolt because the tailgate is thin and hollow. The friction torque that the tailgate can apply is about 20-25 ft lbs. I measured this by slowly adjusting the torque on my torque wrench until the bolts spin but don’t tighten anymore. so what happens is the bolts keep turning until they stretch and break if you go for 25. If there were more threads in the tailgate itself the bolt would probably not break. All of that being said I can say if you go for 20 ft lbs you can go more than factory but you probably won’t break the bolts at least that is what I found on mine. I don’t know if this is needed maybe 13 ft lbs is what is needed.

 

[renegadecaderyn]

I broke one bolt. Tightened the rest by feel. The 12 point bolts I replaced with upgraded hardware.

 

[Gangplank]

The 12 point bolts allow for greater torque on the bolt than other head types. I used a hammer and a torx socket the first time. I stripped the bolts pretty good then I ordered new bolts from Teraflex and a 13mm 12 point socket off Amazon for $1.50. The directions could mention that socket specifically since it doesn’t seem like a standard car or truck tool. Anyway I replaced the bolts without issue and I appreciate the fast service from Teraflex on the new bolts.

I may have to replace those bolts with new ones from TF.

Other than that issue it’s a fantastic piece ok kit. Well thought out and engineered. Combined with the Warn Elite rear bumper my 35” tire is held low and tight to the tailgate. Much better view out the rear window.

 

[Chrisazm]

I may have to replace those bolts with new ones from TF.

Other than that issue it’s a fantastic piece ok kit. Well thought out and engineered. Combined with the Warn Elite rear bumper my 35” tire is held low and tight to the tailgate. Much better view out the rear window.

I agree it is well made. I may have to adjust the latch a little to reduce the wiggle when it closes. Much stronger than factory and a better design. Happy to remove the factory hinges that will corrode quickly. No regrets just little details that shouldn’t be an issue considering the price.

 

[Chrisazm]

I agree it is well made. I may have to adjust the latch a little to reduce the wiggle when it closes. Much stronger than factory and a better design. Happy to remove the factory hinges that will corrode quickly. No regrets just little details that shouldn’t be an issue considering the price.

One more thing. I’m running 37’s so I had to play with the angle of the door a little to compensate for the weight. When all was aligned I found the gap was uneven by about 3/16 of an inch from left to right. I think it will be ok though. I think the tailgate is forgiving.

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