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Speaker replacement upgrade

carstereochick

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I worked in mobile electronics in the early 2000s, things have changed a lot. I did not know this was possible. So you are saying with the Maestro I will be able to control all the functions for the stock headunit on the new one? Do you have a video of this?
Man - you have been missing out! iDatalink has been a game changer for our industry, they have it for all sorts of vehicles, it's awesome. Also T-harnesses for all our remote start installs, minimal cutting, splicing and soldering these days. We are spoiled.

Sort of yes, I have a dummy hooked up to my display Kenwood DMX7706s which you can see on a YouTube review video here where I compare the Kenwood DMX7706s (good option for a radio upgrade in these vehicles because it's shallow and iDatalink Maestro compatible) and Alpine iLX-W650 (not a good option for our vehicles because it's not iDatalink Maestro compatible).

Also you can play around and do a test flash to see how it would work on their website. Go to maestro.idatalink.com. Then for project, select radio replacement. Put in your vehicle information and the Kenwood DMX7706s for an example and go through the options and you will see what features it retains.
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jamief

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I upgraded all my speakers to kicker ds series except for the knee speakers. I used 300hz bass blockers on all the new speakers and ran the sound bar speakers in series to make up for the ohm drop caused by using 4 ohm speakers instead of the stock 8 ohm speakers. I then put a Kicker compact subwoofer in the rear storage bin. The subwoofer has a bass level control wired up to the space below the power window switches in the dash. it sounds alot better than the stock system and gives me good sound all around
 
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jdhunt0

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Also you can play around and do a test flash to see how it would work on their website. Go to maestro.idatalink.com. Then for project, select radio replacement. Put in your vehicle information and the Kenwood DMX7706s for an example and go through the options and you will see what features it retains.
I tried this. It says flash complete, but not real sure what it did. The website did show what steering wheel controls it would retain.
 

cm88_bruins

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Hey everyone. So we've been doing a lot of stereo upgrades in these vehicles and made some more tweaks to our own and I just wanted to share what we've learned so far. [...]
Do you have recommendations for 6.5” speakers when using the metra pods up front and SSV Works in back?
 

carstereochick

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I tried this. It says flash complete, but not real sure what it did. The website did show what steering wheel controls it would retain.
So if you were actually doing the install, you'd have a Maestro module connected to the computer and it would program the module to retain all those features when you installed the radio. That's all. Other than that it still has a wire harness so you are still doing some old school color to color wiring from their harness to the aftermarket radio and then there is their serial link data cable connector. It's like a 4 pin harness that goes from the Maestro module to the aftermarket radio.
 

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carstereochick

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Do you have recommendations for 6.5” speakers when using the metra pods up front and SSV Works in back?
We have had good luck at our shop with the Morel Maximo Ultra series and the Morel Hybrid series. I am not a huge fan of the series in between (Morel Tempo Ultra or Virtus - both are good, but there are other nice options in between from other brands like Focal Flax series or Alpine Type R series. Both are the popular step up in our showroom from the Morel Maximo Ultra series and a step down from the Morel Hybrid series). These adapters have standard aftermarket speaker mounting points so I don't think you'd really be restricted to any particular brand or model.
 

Go Outside

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In your experience do the 6.5’s sound better in the metra pods than a good set of 4’s sound in the stock ported pods?
Im running a Kenwood 7706s and an audio control D4.800. I put a pair of 6.5 tempo ultras in metra pods and am underwhelmed by their response. Their boomy in the 250hz range and fall flat pretty quickly below 125hz. I see why your not a fan.
 

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iDatalink Maestro RR and HRN-RR-CH3. Retains steering wheel controls, climate display, access to vehicle settings, vehicle info, etc. Has to be a head unit that is shallow without a CD player (like Kenwood DMX7706s for example) and has to be iDatalink Maestro compatible.
The headunit explained is about 350. How does this integration work with factory features like usb, uconnect, aux switches, keeping the Jeep on with doors off/doors on? I have the 5 inch and I’m tired of it. Considered this headunit a while ago. How does it work out for you and all I’ve asked?
 

algoo31

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Soo picked up some of the 6.5 adapters and Alpine R's. I also grabbed the Alpine R combo box with the Tweeter's..any one have tips in how to install the tweeters?
 

algoo31

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Anyone try to install an actual tweeter and dash mount it??
 

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Kidcia

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Anyone try to install an actual tweeter and dash mount it??
I put pioneer ts-b350 pro 3 1/4 tweeter in the top part of the dash. they don’t fit 100% to where you can drill them down but it’s a really snug fit to where if you didn’t put the speaker in you’ll struggle removing them.
 

algoo31

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https://www.ssvworks.com/product/Jeep-Wrangler-JL-and+JT-overhead-soundbar-6.5in-speaker-adapter

Looks like ya put in your preferred 6.5, slap em in...however how does one wire up a coaxial from the "components" that are in there? Splice in before the stock wiring splits to the 2 stock speakers?
Wondering if you ever got the answer to this question? I'm looking to switch the sound bar speakers from component to coaxial as well. How are you guys hooking up to the main harness??
 

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jamief

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Is this correct? The stock stereo is 4 ohms wired in parallel to 2x 8 ohm speakers - resulting in a 4 ohm load for the amplifier.

If you wire 2x 4 ohm in series it results in a 8 ohm load for the amplifier.

https://www.stereofactor.com/speaker-impedance-calculator/

imped.png
1 is 4 ohm the other is a 8 ohm. this would create a 6 ohm load.. if you try to hook up too many 4 ohm speakers without compensating for it, it wont work
 

mikegcny

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1 is 4 ohm the other is a 8 ohm. this would create a 6 ohm load.. if you try to hook up too many 4 ohm speakers without compensating for it, it wont work
Ok, but the parallel calculation for your front speakers is (4*8)/(4+8) = 3 (rounded)

Thought you said you wired the speakers on the sound bar in series (which just adds the impedence of the speakers together).
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