Sorry, first thread... 2.5" lift kit (newbie)

[hcoopo]

Preface - I know very little about mechanics of lift kits...
So I'm planning on purchasing a JL sahara and having a lift kit installed right away. Looking at RK based off previous threads. No serious rock crawling but trail riding. Plan on running 35's with 18in wheels. Will this rock krawler kit along with these fox shocks be everything I will need for the lift (also are these the correct shocks)?

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/2-5in-lifts/jl25as-4-rock-krawler-2-5in-adventure-lift-kit

https://www.shocksurplus.com/produc...ep-wrangler-4wd-rwd-jl?variant=32323143827505

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[GATORB8]

Preface - I know very little about mechanics of lift kits...

In case your interested, from a post from a couple years ago:
Springs/Spacers - Establish Ride Height (lift) and ride quality (spring rate). Spacers don't impact spring rate, so a spacer on a stock spring will not impact the ride. You want enough spring extension to not have it fall out at full droop. Spacers will get you the exact advertised change, springs can be hit or miss, and give you more or less.

Bumpstops - Establish tire clearance at full stuff, and the max amount of uptravel. You want the bump stop to hit before your chosen shock "tops" out. Stock, the rubicon has 3.75" of uptravel, I would recommend not going under this, and getting closer to 5" if possible for balanced trail riding (Accutune's Recommendation).

Teraflex Bump Recommendations for Tire Fitment:
• Sport/Sahara Fenders: 35" (w/ 3" front & 2.5" rear bump stops)
• Rubicon Fenders: 35" (w/ 2" front & 2" rear bump stops)
• Rubicon Fenders: 37" (w/ 2.5" front & 3" rear bump stops)

Shocks - The extended length of your shocks establish your max downtravel/droop. Shocks over 29" full extension require aftermarket replacement front driveshaft per Rock Krawler.

Swaybar End Links - With the electronic disconnect in the Rubicon, you don't need aftermarket disconnects. You want the sway bar to be relatively level at ride height, so it's good to extend them by the amount you lift.

Caster Correction - The lift will place the front axle further down in the travel arch, decreasing caster. You'll want to correct the caster one of two ways, extended/adjustable LCAs, a full set of adjustable CAs, or Geometry correction brackets (or some combination)

Axle Location (left/right) - The lift will place the axles further down in the travel arch, moving the axle in one direction. Adjustable track bars or track bar brackets allow you to recenter your axle. Track bar brackets should only be used in the rear because they can cause bump steer if the drag link is a different length than the track bar.

So I'm planning on purchasing a JL sahara and having a lift kit installed right away. Looking at RK based off previous threads. No serious rock crawling but trail riding. Plan on running 35's with 18in wheels. Will this rock krawler kit along with these fox shocks be everything I will need for the lift (also are these the correct shocks)?

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/2-5in-lifts/jl25as-4-rock-krawler-2-5in-adventure-lift-kit

https://www.shocksurplus.com/produc...ep-wrangler-4wd-rwd-jl?variant=32323143827505

I'm not an RK expert.

1. Are you planning on keeping your stock 18s? To my knowledge, RK kits do not work with stock backspacing and would require a spacer.

2. Are you planning on replacing your stock 18s? In that case, get 17s.

3. Hard to tell, but using the picture, it's missing bump stops and one set of sway bar links. You'll want front quick disconnects anyways.

4. Foxes have a good reputation, and the 2.0 is pretty much the basic standard. Those should work, but depending on amount of bump, you may be able to use longer shocks which would give you more flex off road.

5. Support the site vendors when they have the best deal. Check the shock price on Northridge with the forum discount.

 

[Northridge4x4]

Yes, that Rock Krawler kit will work with your Jeep Sahara.

Echoing what @GATORB8 said:
1. Yep, you'll need spacers if you are trying to run the OE 18" wheels.

2. Yep, if you are buying new wheels, don't go 18s, get 17" wheels.
2a. Price out the difference, it is usually more $$$ to go 18". 17" is more common.

3. You will want to add in SB Discos and Bumpstops:
Front sway bar discos: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...r-front-extended-sway-bar-disconnects-2in-6in

Bumpstop kit - Front & Rear:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...ck-krawler-front-and-rear-2-4in-bump-stop-kit

4. Here are the Fox shocks you want:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...formance-series-ifp-rear-shock-2-5-3-5in-lift

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...ormance-series-ifp-front-shock-2-5-3-5in-lift

5. Use discount code: jlwranglerforums

 

[Santana74]

I have a JLU Sahara Altitude Ecodiesel and run 35s with OEM wheels. No spacers were needed. There is no rubbing. I don't know if there is a difference with in the Ecodiesel that gives enough space. Using a 2.5in Rough Country Level kit.

 

[GATORB8]

I have a JLU Sahara Altitude Ecodiesel and run 35s with OEM wheels. No spacers were needed. There is no rubbing. I don't know if there is a difference with in the Ecodiesel that gives enough space. Using a 2.5in Rough Country Level kit.

It’s not the ED, it’s the RK LCAs.

 

[hcoopo]

Yes, that Rock Krawler kit will work with your Jeep Sahara.

Echoing what @GATORB8 said:
1. Yep, you'll need spacers if you are trying to run the OE 18" wheels.

2. Yep, if you are buying new wheels, don't go 18s, get 17" wheels.
2a. Price out the difference, it is usually more $$$ to go 18". 17" is more common.

3. You will want to add in SB Discos and Bumpstops:
Front sway bar discos: https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...r-front-extended-sway-bar-disconnects-2in-6in

Bumpstop kit - Front & Rear:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...ck-krawler-front-and-rear-2-4in-bump-stop-kit

4. Here are the Fox shocks you want:
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...formance-series-ifp-rear-shock-2-5-3-5in-lift

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...ormance-series-ifp-front-shock-2-5-3-5in-lift

5. Use discount code: jlwranglerforums

Thank you all for the advice.
On the wheels, I like the looks of the 18in wheels with the 35in tires over 17s. Planning on aftermarket wheels. Aside from price and not as common, any other down sides?
Is the sway bar disconnect necessary if not planning on doing major articulation? Trying to save the $ I can, as you know, this stuff adds up quickly.
Also, what would happen without the bump stop? Tire rubbing the fender?
And is there any other reputable lift kit that does come with everything around the $2000 price point? I didn’t see any hence why I decided to go with RK and heard good things about ride quality.

 

[GATORB8]

Thank you all for the advice.
On the wheels, I like the looks of the 18in wheels with the 35in tires over 17s. Planning on aftermarket wheels. Aside from price and not as common, any other down sides?

So let me preface this with: do whatever you want. It's your Jeep build it how ever floats your boat.

Given the same tire diameter, there are several off road benefits to running the smallest wheel possible. More cushion/sidewall, more footprint when aired down, more protection for the rim and ability to use sidewall to locate your tire on a wall off the ground. As 17" is the smallest diameter wheel that fits a stock axle JL, you'll see the vast majority of off-roaders run 17s. You can see this repeat itself in models other than Jeep as well, look at a Platinum F-150 compared to a Raptor, or a Limited Ram compared to a TRX.

Obviously this forum is more likely to be populated by enthusiasts, in general you'll see the assumption here that the bigger the wheel, the less likely it's seen more than the curb at the mall.

Is the sway bar disconnect necessary if not planning on doing major articulation? Trying to save the $ I can, as you know, this stuff adds up quickly.

So the disconnect is a convenience item. You can spend a few more minutes with two 18 mm wrenches and a zip tie and accomplish the same thing. Note, you are going to get 3.5"+ from most 2.5" spring lift on a Sahara. You will want extended links to keep the sway bar working as designed.

Also, what would happen without the bump stop? Tire rubbing the fender?

Your shock would become your bump stop. If that bump isn't enough to keep your tire out of your fender, it would rub.

And is there any other reputable lift kit that does come with everything around the $2000 price point? I didn’t see any hence why I decided to go with RK and heard good things about ride quality.

Yes, a ton. Just running through @Northridge4x4 's options:
AEV - These guys have a nationwide dealership upgrade network
ICON
JKS - Probably have the most popular QDs and are a part of Fox
Clayton
Teraflex

You don't have to run Fox "shox", lots of choices, and a great entry monotube is the Bilstein 5100. If the 2k limit is your issue, a different shock may give you the room to get the kit you want.

Also, if you have zero plans to off-road, it's not the end of the world to go to a spacer kit, which would save you a few hundred bucks. Note, spacer kits will give you pretty much exaclty the advertised lift, where spring lifts are normally based on a loaded Rubicon and will likely give you AT LEAST an extra inch.

Also, don't hesitate to call somebody. Most of the people in the Jeep specific aftermarket industry are Jeeper's themselves and love to help out. This isn't like calling a massive part retailer customer service on a leveling kit on a half ton truck.

 

[hcoopo]

So let me preface this with: do whatever you want. It's your Jeep build it how ever floats your boat.

Given the same tire diameter, there are several off road benefits to running the smallest wheel possible. More cushion/sidewall, more footprint when aired down, more protection for the rim and ability to use sidewall to locate your tire on a wall off the ground. As 17" is the smallest diameter wheel that fits a stock axle JL, you'll see the vast majority of off-roaders run 17s. You can see this repeat itself in models other than Jeep as well, look at a Platinum F-150 compared to a Raptor, or a Limited Ram compared to a TRX.

Obviously this forum is more likely to be populated by enthusiasts, in general you'll see the assumption here that the bigger the wheel, the less likely it's seen more than the curb at the mall.



So the disconnect is a convenience item. You can spend a few more minutes with two 18 mm wrenches and a zip tie and accomplish the same thing. Note, you are going to get 3.5"+ from most 2.5" spring lift on a Sahara. You will want extended links to keep the sway bar working as designed.



Your shock would become your bump stop. If that bump isn't enough to keep your tire out of your fender, it would rub.


Yes, a ton. Just running through @Northridge4x4 's options:
AEV - These guys have a nationwide dealership upgrade network
ICON
JKS - Probably have the most popular QDs and are a part of Fox
Clayton
Teraflex

You don't have to run Fox "shox", lots of choices, and a great entry monotube is the Bilstein 5100. If the 2k limit is your issue, a different shock may give you the room to get the kit you want.

Also, if you have zero plans to off-road, it's not the end of the world to go to a spacer kit, which would save you a few hundred bucks. Note, spacer kits will give you pretty much exaclty the advertised lift, where spring lifts are normally based on a loaded Rubicon and will likely give you AT LEAST an extra inch.

Also, don't hesitate to call somebody. Most of the people in the Jeep specific aftermarket industry are Jeeper's themselves and love to help out. This isn't like calling a massive part retailer customer service on a leveling kit on a half ton truck.

Again, thanks for the great feedback. Regarding the bilstein shocks, is the primary difference in benefit between them and the fox shocks more on-road or off-road? I'm trying to preserve the daily driving experience/comfort as much as possible. I'd be fine to take a hit on extreme off-road performance to maintain daily driving comfort. So looking for a lift and components that drive as close to stock as possible but still have the option to do some light wheeling and trail riding.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

On the wheels, I like the looks of the 18in wheels with the 35in tires over 17s. Planning on aftermarket wheels. Aside from price and not as common, any other down sides?

If you plan to off-road you will want to air-down the tires. If you air-down the tires you will want as much sidewall as possible. The bigger the wheel the less the sidewall. That plus 17" wheels give you a lot more options when it comes to tire options.

 

[GATORB8]

Again, thanks for the great feedback. Regarding the bilstein shocks, is the primary difference in benefit between them and the fox shocks more on-road or off-road? I'm trying to preserve the daily driving experience/comfort as much as possible. I'd be fine to take a hit on extreme off-road performance to maintain daily driving comfort. So looking for a lift and components that drive as close to stock as possible but still have the option to do some light wheeling and trail riding.

Ride comfort is extremely subjective, so it's tough to make a call on what someone else will like. The Bilstein 5100 and Fox 2.0 IFP are very similiar shocks, with the main difference being materials (for example the 5100 has a steel body and the fox has aluminum) and the valving (most say the Fox is a softer ride). Both are well know, big manufacturers and are standard monotubes around 2" in body diameter. In general a softer ride is more comforatable on the straight but results in more body roll, so the right balance is a personal thing.

Brad at Trail Recon has a youtube channel and has an awesome 2 part lift kit comparison series that I'd recommend you watch:

 

[hcoopo]

Ride comfort is extremely subjective, so it's tough to make a call on what someone else will like. The Bilstein 5100 and Fox 2.0 IFP are very similiar shocks, with the main difference being materials (for example the 5100 has a steel body and the fox has aluminum) and the valving (most say the Fox is a softer ride). Both are well know, big manufacturers and are standard monotubes around 2" in body diameter. In general a softer ride is more comforatable on the straight but results in more body roll, so the right balance is a personal thing.

Brad at Trail Recon has a youtube channel and has an awesome 2 part lift kit comparison series that I'd recommend you watch:

Well now after watching the video, I'm impressed with the Eurosport dynatrac lol. Comes with fox shocks. Per one of their reviews, "Although Dynatrac said it is not needed, I did add front and rear adjustable track bars and adjustable front lower control arms". Do you feel this would be needed in my case and, if so, what benefit? Also, any other parts you feel would be necessary to buy with this kit?
Also, I initially leaned toward the RK kit because they said virtually no maintenance needed. Do you know how much maintenance the dynatrac would need?

 

[GATORB8]

Well now after watching the video, I'm impressed with the Eurosport dynatrac lol. Comes with fox shocks. Per one of their reviews, "Although Dynatrac said it is not needed, I did add front and rear adjustable track bars and adjustable front lower control arms". Do you feel this would be needed in my case and, if so, what benefit? Also, any other parts you feel would be necessary to buy with this kit?
Also, I initially leaned toward the RK kit because they said virtually no maintenance needed. Do you know how much maintenance the dynatrac would need?

The Dynatrac kit is pretty bare bones, not necessarily a bad thing.

Maintenance is going to come from either rebuildable or greaseable bushings on the control arms or track bars. The Dynatrac doesn't contain either, so no real maintenance there.

If you check my post above, Control Arms = Caster Correction and Track Bar = Axle Location.

Both items are extremely modular, the brunt of any lift kit install is the springs and front bump stop . Track bars and control arms are basically two bolts each and can be done on the ground. Note, you'll need to straighten the wheel by adjusting the drag link when you do the front track bar if you change the length from stock (and you will because that's why you want it in the first place).

You can certainly go with the Dynatrac setup, then decide if you'd like to address either item. Caster in particular does have an impact on how the steering acts.

 

[Recce]

The Mopar 2" is also a good option. I'll be taking that route this season.

When they say 2" they mean on a Rubicon, like most kits out there also.
You'll end up closer to 2.5-3"+ lift.

If you go 2.5-3" (advertised) of lift (Say AEV) then you'll net probably much more than 3" on your Unlimited; at which point you'll be spending much more $$$ on drive shafts and relocation brackets, longer control arms and what-not's. At that much lift, as I understand it, you'll be required to get a wider wheel with proper backspacing and tires to go with them. $$$$

 

[GATORB8]

The Mopar 2" is also a good option. I'll be taking that route this season.

When they say 2" they mean on a Rubicon, like most kits out there also.
You'll end up closer to 2.5-3"+ lift.

If you go 2.5-3" (advertised) of lift (Say AEV) then you'll net probably much more than 3" on your Unlimited; at which point you'll be spending much more $$$ on drive shafts and relocation brackets, longer control arms and what-not's. At that much lift, as I understand it, you'll be required to get a wider wheel with proper backspacing and tires to go with them. $$$$

Aftermarket driveshaft requirement is triggered by extended shock length (amount of droop) not the lift heights.

The Mopar kit includes a set of lower control arms that are extended 1/4" compared to stock, those are available separately for under $100 a pair. While there are some flex and durability limitations, there's not a large amount of modification done beyond the correction of front caster, which only requires one pair (either upper or lower) of front control arms.

Regardless of kit, when you get over 28-29" of front extended shock length is when the couple additional requirements kick in (driveshaft, shock relocation).

Lift height itself doesn't implement a specific wheel requirement, but running larger tires means the tires get closer to other parts. Especially on the standard (non-Rubi) track width. Normally the first rub point is front tire to front lower control arm. Most manufacturer's (including RK as mentioned above) do not specifically clearance their LCAs and have to require minimum backspacing (really it should be offset) either by wheel or spacer. You'll see that those that don't state those requirements have a inward bend in the LCA similar to the stock one, you'll see that on the Mopar, Metalcloak and some others.

While there are many that run 12.50s on stock rims, most tires over 285 have specified wheel width ranges starting at 8" or so, that's the trigger for wider wheels.

 

[Stuckinthesand]

I run an AEV 2.5" lift on my 19 sport s which is my profile pic. I got 4" lift from this kit. I did not use the correction brackets as I did not want to lose clearance because I do play on rocks. If you are not going to be on the rocks you can definitely have the brackets installed. The only other things I did was add a teraflex front and rear trac bar brackets instead of an adjustable to center my axles and put the roll center back to stock and JKS quick disconnects

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...MIpJ3b5fLt_gIVexSzAB3LqAzNEAQYBSABEgIQLvD_BwE

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...ex-axle-end-rear-track-bar-bracket-2-5-4-lift

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/...lex-axle-end-front-track-bar-bracket-4in-lift

https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/disconnects/2033-jks-quicker-disconnects-2-5-6in-lift

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