Slow coolant consumption - which coolant dye to use?

[ym0bc1]

I remember JL uses OAT coolant for both engine. Trying to find a coolant dye to pour in.
Any recommendation?

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[alphawolff]

You don't need dye for coolant. If it's leaking it'll be blatantly obvious where it's leaking from. If you can't find a leak it's a head gasket, relatively common on our vehicles.

 

[ym0bc1]

You don't need dye for coolant. If it's leaking it'll be blatantly obvious where it's leaking from. If you can't find a leak it's a head gasket, relatively common on our vehicles.

I was mostly concerned with this TSB:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10228059-9999.pdf

Fairly easy to do it myself but not sure if other places leak.. I need to top of the coolant every couple of thousand miles (it goes from max to min).

 

[ScotM]

I was mostly concerned with this TSB:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2022/MC-10228059-9999.pdf

Fairly easy to do it myself but not sure if other places leak.. I need to top of the coolant every couple of thousand miles (it goes from max to min).

You’ll see the bright pink spots of coolant near the inlet. Or you can take the Jeep in for the TSB to be performed. It is a challenge to do it yourself- remove-loctite-replace, but it can be done.

 

[alphawolff]

You’ll see the bright pink spots of coolant near the inlet. Or you can take the Jeep in for the TSB to be performed. It is a challenge to do it yourself- remove-loctite-replace, but it can be done.

You don't need to do any of that, just tighten them. Quarter inch ratchet with a short extension from below is all you need, but it's a bit tricky on the angle. The TSB exists because the dogshit engineer who determined the torque specs fucked up, or whomever was assembling the engines fucked up. Instead of admitting their mistakes they claimed the bolt's must've just backed out and need Loctite to prevent it.

We had a long string of LCC engineers covering their own asses and blaming a third party for the failures. The steering damper nonsense is a great example. First they blamed improper installation orientation, then blamed it on not being bled properly, then doubled down on it not being bled properly. Spoiler: the part is just undersized for the vehicle and fails quickly.

 

[R3TRO]

You don't need to do any of that, just tighten them. Quarter inch ratchet with a short extension from below is all you need, but it's a bit tricky on the angle. The TSB exists because the dogshit engineer who determined the torque specs fucked up, or whomever was assembling the engines fucked up. Instead of admitting their mistakes they claimed the bolt's must've just backed out and need Loctite to prevent it.

We had a long string of LCC engineers covering their own asses and blaming a third party for the failures. The steering damper nonsense is a great example. First they blamed improper installation orientation, then blamed it on not being bled properly, then doubled down on it not being bled properly. Spoiler: the part is just undersized for the vehicle and fails quickly.

I like hearing from people in 'the know'! Thanks for the insight.

 

[ScotM]

You don't need to do any of that, just tighten them. Quarter inch ratchet with a short extension from below is all you need, but it's a bit tricky on the angle. The TSB exists because the dogshit engineer who determined the torque specs fucked up, or whomever was assembling the engines fucked up. Instead of admitting their mistakes they claimed the bolt's must've just backed out and need Loctite to prevent it.

We had a long string of LCC engineers covering their own asses and blaming a third party for the failures. The steering damper nonsense is a great example. First they blamed improper installation orientation, then blamed it on not being bled properly, then doubled down on it not being bled properly. Spoiler: the part is just undersized for the vehicle and fails quickly.

Maybe the loctite is overkill, but I don’t have to worry if it was a wrong torque or backing out issue, Or an engineering CYA, They aren’t going anywhere now

 

[Idaho Explorer]

I remember JL uses OAT coolant for both engine. Trying to find a coolant dye to pour in.
Any recommendation?

If you are losing coolant and can not see where it is probably a blown head gasket or worse.
Had the same problem mid December and ended up with an engine replacement ($11,238)
Started with a check engine light for #4 cylinder misfire. Head gasket blown, defective block, three of the four cams had excessive wear and the rockers were seized up.
These are all known problems with the 3.6L motor that I did not find out about until too late.

 

[ym0bc1]

If you are losing coolant and can not see where it is probably a blown head gasket or worse.
Had the same problem mid December and ended up with an engine replacement ($11,238)
Started with a check engine light for #4 cylinder misfire. Head gasket blown, defective block, three of the four cams had excessive wear and the rockers were seized up.
These are all known problems with the 3.6L motor that I did not find out about until too late.

how fast were you losing coolant?

 

[Idaho Explorer]

how fast were you losing coolant?

Don't know when it started, but first indication of lost coolant was when engine overheated.
My first thought was that oil change place had done something under the hood.
popped the hood and checked and found coolant low. Added coolant and it then started losing about a gallon a week with about 500 miles per week of driving.
There was no indication of the problem with the cams or rockers.

 

[alphawolff]

Don't know when it started, but first indication of lost coolant was when engine overheated.
My first thought was that oil change place had done something under the hood.
popped the hood and checked and found coolant low. Added coolant and it then started losing about a gallon a week with about 500 miles per week of driving.
There was no indication of the problem with the cams or rockers.

Sounds like a blown head gasket to me. If you let it sit for a few days you'll probably have a rough start which will indicate which bank/cylinder is experiencing the failure

 

[R3TRO]

If you are losing coolant and can not see where it is probably a blown head gasket or worse.
Had the same problem mid December and ended up with an engine replacement ($11,238)
Started with a check engine light for #4 cylinder misfire. Head gasket blown, defective block, three of the four cams had excessive wear and the rockers were seized up.
These are all known problems with the 3.6L motor that I did not find out about until too late.

Hopefully under warranty? If not, ouch! Didn't realize they cost this much.

 

[Heimkehr]

Maybe the loctite is overkill, but I don’t have to worry if it was a wrong torque or backing out issue...They aren’t going anywhere now

What color did you use? Blue, orange, red? Just curious.

 

[ScotM]

What color did you use? Blue, orange, red? Just curious.

Blue. I used the stick , so it wouldn’t run everywhere while I was fiddling trying to get the bolt back in

 

[Idaho Explorer]

Hopefully under warranty? If not, ouch! Didn't realize they cost this much.

Nope!! I believe that is the reason why Jeep warranty is only for 65k miles. Problems usually don't show up till after that. My advice to anyone buying a Jeep with this engine is to get an extended warranty. The rebuilt engine warranty carries a 100k mile/3 year warranty.

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