That’s true. I talked to a lot of manufacturers and many of them will tell you over the phone. Rusty’s uses mostly Duer, Metal Cloak uses Betts, that’s all I remember off the top of my head though. I have my notes somewhere.
I never measured it, just installed it and it came out as you see it. I can try to measure if that will help. Which kit did you buy? I have never spoke to Rusty, I only spoke to a guy there named Austin. He was exceedingly helpful. I can't say he'll be able to sort the rear spring issue, but I'd call and ask for him.
I just boughthe 3 inch springs, I liked the Rock Krawler arms so I bought those and the rancho adjustable shocks to complete my Frankenstein lift and dang that's quite a bit of effort. I had to use compressors for the front springs but the rear I muscled in using a pry bar, I almost didn't install them but went ahead with it thinking I'd add a leveling spacer to the rear but at the same time it defeats the purpose of buying new coils when o could have done the same with the rancho springs.
No rear bump stops currently. I'm pretty sure the thrust angle is ok, I don't think I'm crabbing down the road. I took a pic of the lower rear control arm on passenger, see below. I have no experience with Johnny joints, I thought this was how they just ended up, depending on alignment. Rustys gives you a starting measurement of each arm, and I installed with those dimensions to the letter. The instructions did say that the distances could change, but that would happen during alignment. Since the alignment went smoothly and the Jeep drives perfectly, I didn't think there was an issue. If you're saying there is an issue, please explain. I'm am very leary about lengthing control arms and destroying my alignment unless there is some significant issue, in which case I'd prefer to bring it back to the alignment shop.
None of them are perfectly straight, but this one is more off than the others. I also realized that the bend is supposed to be angled towards the vehicle, and the bend is clearly not. I'll try loosening up the jam nut and rotating it tomorrow, perhaps that will straighten it.
Not to switch them, as they're both the same on either side. The left seems ok, is angled in. I'm go try rotate it so the angle is on the inside.
Looked good straightened up. Didn’t know what joints rusty used. I would however flip it around so the bend allows more clearance. When you air down you’ll want as much room as possible. Rusty didn’t send anything for the bump stops? Get something there before flexing it out or else your tires will end up in the fenders.Once I get something in my head, it rattles around in there like a poison. So I had to look at this tonight. Took off rear wheel, so I could loosen that jam nut. Once I even slightly touched it, easily rotated back and forth. Its not binding, see picture below. I think I'll leave it alone.
I have no ego regarding this stuff, please continue to offer suggestions, advice or things I've done wrong. I have a lot of experience with race cars, but zero with 4x4. Eagerly trying to learn thru doing and posting on this forum.
Kinda hard to explain but you’ll see what I’m talking about. Remove the bracket and discard (13mm) unclip hook from the rear of the hub. I run them on the front of the support that they go over. It’ll drop down between the cross member and the fuel filler line. They will rest on the rear axle but the amount of room you can gain will ensure it’ll never get in a bind
