Rubicon-Hard to find

[Crusifix]

Isn't there a break in period like most vehicles? You were racing on the same gas that was put in by the dealer? Trying to seat the seals ?

I used to build racing engines. Modern engines are broken in pretty much as soon as you drive them. The rings seat within 200 miles easily. Drive it like you are going to drive it, I say!. An issue we noticed with taking it easy is that at higher RPM's the piston will actually travel a little further up and down due to velocity causing things to stretch a bit. If you take it easy, the rings will never see the highest of highs or the lowest of lows. Then when they finally do, and the rings are seated, you can actually cause additional ring wear once it hits the virgin cross-hatch of the cylinder wall. This leads to more than normal blow-by. Especially on FI applications.

I'm not saying to rag the engine out. However, a few runs to redline will not hurt it. If it does...then you most likely had a problem anyway and at least it was found out while you have a warranty.

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[jarvis]

I used to build racing engines. Modern engines are broken in pretty much as soon as you drive them. The rings seat within 200 miles easily. Drive it like you are going to drive it, I say!. An issue we noticed with taking it easy is that at higher RPM's the piston will actually travel a little further up and down due to velocity causing things to stretch a bit. If you take it easy, and the rings never see the highest of highs or the lowest of lows. Then when they finally do, and the rings are seated, you can actually cause additional ring wear once it hits the virgin cross-hatch of the cylinder wall. This leads to more than normal blow-by. Especially on FI applications.

Good to know from real first hand experience. I had read similar when I had my Subaru WRX and was concerned about break in period.

 

[LUV2JEEP]

Ordering is not near as bad/hard as some people might think. I don't even consider looking around different lots anymore, just find the dealer you like and order. There are too many options anymore on vehicles. If I am spending $50k, I'm getting exactly what I want. 8 weeks isn't a big deal. Anymore it seems like a year goes by way way too fast. I keep looking at the clock and screaming slow down!!.....but it won't. It never does........Age continues........ohhh sorry getting off on a tangent.

 

[VolCntry73]

I used to build racing engines. Modern engines are broken in pretty much as soon as you drive them. The rings seat within 200 miles easily. Drive it like you are going to drive it, I say!. An issue we noticed with taking it easy is that at higher RPM's the piston will actually travel a little further up and down due to velocity causing things to stretch a bit. If you take it easy, and the rings never see the highest of highs or the lowest of lows. Then when they finally do, and the rings are seated, you can actually cause additional ring wear once it hits the virgin cross-hatch of the cylinder wall. This leads to more than normal blow-by. Especially on FI applications.

I'm not saying to rag the engine out. However, a few runs to redline will not hurt it. If it does...then you most likely had a problem anyway and at least it was found out while you have a warranty.

I don't know...I would probably recommend what the manual says, if it was me. Keep it below 55 for the first 60 miles, and vary the speeds for the first 300 (with occasional wot periods). I think it's mostly for drivetrain break in too.

 

[VolCntry73]

So the one they found me is in fact sting gray...I was looking for white or punk’n but now I’m not sure what to do...I like sting gray, but is it too flat of a color? Do I get a 3.6 or 2.0, white, gray or orange, keep my 18 or get a 19 rubicon, order or not order...if they only offered the anvil color my life would be easy...

Like others have said, I would order what I want. When you are forking out this kind of money, you will be happier in the long run. Right now you seem a bit impulsive. I think I would slow down a bit...and just get the exact vehicle you are looking for. Not sure what the build timeline is right now...usually 8-10 weeks I think...but it goes by quick.

As for 3.6 vs 2.0. I went with a 3.6 because it's been tried and tested. Haven't regretted it a day. The 2.0 seems to be fine, but the JL has alot of new features over the JK that are unknowns as far as reliability. I just didn't want to put stock in a new engine as well. And I still have a hang up of the 48 volt battery that is placed underneath an offroad vehicle. Still makes no sense to me. Whether that's a misplaced criticism or not...it's still an issue with me personally. But that may not be a problem if you don't plan to offroad. Before you decide, I would just look at the forum in the engine sections and see what owners are saying. I can give you my opinion about the 3.6, but since I don't own a 2.0, I won't be much help in how well they perform. And no one really knows where they stand on longevity.

 

[Crusifix]

I don't know...I would probably recommend what the manual says, if it was me. Keep it below 55 for the first 60 miles, and vary the speeds for the first 300 (with occasional wot periods). I think it's mostly for drivetrain break in too.

I have broken in every vehicle I have had the way I described for the most part, and I have had zero issues and most of them see over 200K miles with no unscheduled maintenance. It is the same with the drive train. Stuff breaks in really quick. But do what you are comfortable with. This is just my method, and I'm not wanting to come off as dictating to everyone in an asshole sort of way. ;-)

 

[srt20]

My 3.6 in my Durango was at WOT til it shifted more then once on its test drive.

IMO engine "break in" in greatly overrated. I'd be much more concerned with lapping of the differential gears. Which I am not very concerned with that either.

68k miles, oil on dipstick is always full at 10K when I change the oil, and its never been back to the dealer. I have Maxcare lifetime warranty.

OP, Sorry to get off topic. IMO, the 3.6 is a greatly underrated engine. I'm looking for Moab's for my wife. So only the 3.6 for those. But we did drive the 2.0 and I thought it was a very good driving engine. I really like the lower end power. I like turbo engines. Im not a big fan of TGDI engines yet though. And I already own a 3.5 Ecoboost, so Im not going to buy another TGDI. Other than that, I dont know about the 2.0 for mpg or reliability.

 

[Patsloft]

That is super quick. I am in Socal as well and ordered JLUR manual feb 28. My dealer says it could take 2 weeks to get the VIN/VON number...

Congratulations hope it’s fast for you too I can’t wait

 

[Patsloft]

So the one they found me is in fact sting gray...I was looking for white or punk’n but now I’m not sure what to do...I like sting gray, but is it too flat of a color? Do I get a 3.6 or 2.0, white, gray or orange, keep my 18 or get a 19 rubicon, order or not order...if they only offered the anvil color my life would be easy...

Order it and get the one you want

 

[Crusifix]

I got lucky. I built the one I wanted on the Jeep website, and the exact same build was sitting on a lot 7 miles from my house. 1 in a million!

 

[SecondTJ]

So the one they found me is in fact sting gray...I was looking for white or punk’n but now I’m not sure what to do...I like sting gray, but is it too flat of a color? Do I get a 3.6 or 2.0, white, gray or orange, keep my 18 or get a 19 rubicon, order or not order...if they only offered the anvil color my life would be easy...

Order the 3.6 and get exactly what you want.

Rumblings around here have been that dealer stock orders were restricted to the 2.0 while sold orders for customers were allowed the 3.6 if desired

 

[Slatecaller]

I was told by my local dealer that they can only order the 3.6 for allocated orders. They only had one on the lot which was a Moab. He also said Jeep is holding the 3.6 engines for Gladiators. I ordered my 3.6 JLUR Friday 3/8.

 

[Andrew05LJR]

Yup, I had to order mine as well. Jeep is holding the V6s for the Gladiator release.

 

[Majestic]

So those 2 extra doors are costing me 3mpg? And by the way, premium is recommended, not required on the 2.0

Don't put cheap gas in an engine that recommends premium. They wouldn't have recommended it if it didn't need it.

 

[Sean L]

Don't put cheap gas in an engine that recommends premium. They wouldn't have recommended it if it didn't need it.

There is a minimum requirement of 87 octane, but for optimal performance use 93. Using 87 does no harm to the engine, it automatically adjusts to run properly based on the fuel used.

It was the same in my Ram 1500 with its recommended 89 octane. It ran just fine on 87, but got better mileage and full power out of 89.

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