RPM Steering

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

I just pulled the trigger on the RPM 2.5 Aluminum set. My stock ones were getting bashed.
I requested a discount code via email and saved $100. You'll still have to pay for shipping though.
So $799 for kit, $99 for Steering Stabilizer mount kit and $51 for shipping.


2.5 Ton JL/JT HD 2'' Aluminum Steering Kit (Rubicon/Mohave/ Max Tow Pkg)

• 2.5 Ton JL/JT HD 2'' Aluminum Steering Kit (Rubicon/Mohave/ Max Tow Pkg)
  Your Price: $899.99
  2.5 Ton JL/JT HD 2'' Aluminum Steering Kit (Rubicon & JT Max Tow)
  Part Number: RPM-2001
  Availability: 5-7 Day Lead Time
  2.5 Ton JL/JT HD 2" Aluminum Steering Kit

(Rubicon/Mohave/JT Max Tow)

• Massive 2" solid USA made 7075 T6 cold finish aluminum link with hexed ends for easy adjustments
• 1.25" forged TREs
• Anti-flop ends built-in (excludes pitman arm joint)
• Serrated Belleville washers (included)
• Tie rod and drag link included in the kit
• No drilling required for stock location
• Drag link flip option

PLEASE NOTE:

• Tie rod is a direct bolt-on for stock JL/JT axles.
• Select stock location for up to 4" lift.
• For lifts higher than 4.5", we recommend a flip kit.

Sponsored

 

[mikem20]

I just pulled the trigger on the RPM 2.5 Aluminum set. My stock ones were getting bashed.
I requested a discount code via email and saved $100. You'll still have to pay for shipping though.
So $799 for kit, $99 for Steering Stabilizer mount kit and $51 for shipping.


2.5 Ton JL/JT HD 2'' Aluminum Steering Kit (Rubicon/Mohave/ Max Tow Pkg)

Nice upgrade. ?? I just did the same with apex.

 

[Headbarcode]

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Nice upgrade. ?? I just did the same with apex.

Apex Chassis stated there were no codes available at this time. I was looking at getting their black aluminum set at first. Oh well.

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

I have a few more things wanting to swap out this winter. My go to @Northride4x4 is currently out of the RCV front axles and Adams 1350 driveshafts. I want to keep my FAD. Can’t touch the 10% off they offer, so I’m reaching out to the manufacturers. RCV is stating delivery is 12 weeks out.

 

[mikem20]

Apex Chassis stated there were no codes available at this time. I was looking at getting their black aluminum set at first. Oh well.

Yeah I paid full price. But I wanted the black aluminum one as well. Hindsight, the shiny aluminum would have been just fine for me and saved me a few bucks.

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Damn you @Headbarcode .....I'm looking at Reid knuckles now!. Ponytail guy did a video on the Synergy HD ball joints. Looks like a viable option. Who's ball joints did go with? The 1350 driveshafts will have to wait... I need you to swap your rear driveshaft and give me your OEM takeoffs! LOL

 

[Headbarcode]

Damn you @Headbarcode .....I'm looking at Reid knuckles now!. Ponytail guy did a video on the Synergy HD ball joints. Looks like a viable option. Who's ball joints did go with? The 1350 driveshafts will have to wait... I need you to swap your rear driveshaft and give me your OEM takeoffs! LOL

And RCV axle shafts.... while you're in there...

Personally, I'm not a fan of Synergys ball joint design. And that has nothing to do with my having all 8 of their control arms collecting dust in a box because they don't fair well with any more flex than you get from stock suspension.

I went with the Dynatrac HD ball joints. They cost more up front than others, but are rebuildable in place for small money, which saves the parent bore of the inner knuckle from repeated pressings over the long haul. Every time a press fit gets disturbed, a hair of dimension is lost which lessens the strength of the press fit.

The only other company that I would personally use for ball joints is Apex. They are constructed of some very nice quality materials that should last a long time. They are more cost efficient than Dynatrac, but I don't believe they are rebuildable.

Another thought worth typing: If you do end up ditching the 7lb aluminum knuckles for a set of Reids 27lb high strength ductile iron beauties, I highly recommend a fresh pair of hub bearing assemblies. They only cost about $100 for both sides. Uni-bearing hubs are not nearly as strong and long lasting as tradition hubs with dual opposing bearings that ride on a spindle. They are also not serviceable or allow one to readjust bearing preload over time. And just like everything else in that general vicinity, they will wear quicker with the larger tires.

I see that you're only right over in Jersey. If you're willing to take the drive, the driveshafts are yours for the cost of some gas and your drive time. If that tickles your fancy, I'll let you know when I swap out my rear. I'm just torn between Adam's and JE Reels 1350 rear shaft.

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

And RCV axle shafts.... while you're in there...

Personally, I'm not a fan of Synergys ball joint design. And that has nothing to do with my having all 8 of their control arms collecting dust in a box because they don't fair well with any more flex than you get from stock suspension.

I went with the Dynatrac HD ball joints. They cost more up front than others, but are rebuildable in place for small money, which saves the parent bore of the inner knuckle from repeated pressings over the long haul. Every time a press fit gets disturbed, a hair of dimension is lost which lessens the strength of the press fit.

The only other company that I would personally use for ball joints is Apex. They are constructed of some very nice quality materials that should last a long time. They are more cost efficient than Dynatrac, but I don't believe they are rebuildable.

Another thought worth typing: If you do end up ditching the 7lb aluminum knuckles for a set of Reids 27lb high strength ductile iron beauties, I highly recommend a fresh pair of hub bearing assemblies. They only cost about $100 for both sides. Uni-bearing hubs are not nearly as strong and long lasting as tradition hubs with dual opposing bearings that ride on a spindle. They are also not serviceable or allow one to readjust bearing preload over time. And just like everything else in that general vicinity, they will wear quicker with the larger tires.

I see that you're only right over in Jersey. If you're willing to take the drive, the driveshafts are yours for the cost of some gas and your drive time. If that tickles your fancy, I'll let you know when I swap out my rear. I'm just torn between Adam's and JE Reels 1350 rear shaft.

I've decided to skip the Reid knuckles until I break or bend my current ones. I see you also installed the outer axle seals with the RCV axles. Was it a PITA to install? I ordered a pair because after watching the videos on the RCV install, there was nothing to cover the outer axle tube. Also, I ordered a rear Adams 1350 driveshaft from @Northridge4x4. The forum discount brought it down to about 7 Benjamins. They dont have them in stock currently, but I saved @$80. Thanks in advance.

 

[Headbarcode]

I've decided to skip the Reid knuckles until I break or bend my current ones. I see you also installed the outer axle seals with the RCV axles. Was it a PITA to install? I ordered a pair because after watching the videos on the RCV install, there was nothing to cover the outer axle tube. Also, I ordered a rear Adams 1350 driveshaft from @Northridge4x4. The forum discount brought it down to about 7 Benjamins. They dont have them in stock currently, but I saved me @$80. Thanks in advance.

The RCV outer seals are easy to install. My axle tubes were dirty and rusting over, so I prepped the first few inches on either end with a stiffer wire wheel on a small die grinder to get it down to bare steel. A cordless drill would do the same job. I then prelubed the outer seal housings o-rings with the RCV grease to not damage them during install. I used a scrap piece of 2x4 wood on end to drive them home. Also, don't forget to aim the grease fittings forward for easy access.

 

[KNN]

Another thought worth typing: If you do end up ditching the 7lb aluminum knuckles for a set of Reids 27lb high strength ductile iron beauties, I highly recommend a fresh pair of hub bearing assemblies. They only cost about $100 for both sides. Uni-bearing hubs are not nearly as strong and long lasting as tradition hubs with dual opposing bearings that ride on a spindle. They are also not serviceable or allow one to readjust bearing preload over time. And just like everything else in that general vicinity, they will wear quicker with the larger tires.

Awesome tip. Any recommendations on which brand hub bearing to upgrade to?

Was your upgrade preventive or were you having issues?

 

[Headbarcode]

Awesome tip. Any recommendations on which brand hub bearing to upgrade to?

Was your upgrade preventive or were you having issues?

I happened to go with Moog for the unit bearing hub assemblies, but could've gone with Dana/Spicer just the same. No real reason behind that particular choice. With 55k miles on the Jeep, I just figured why not while I was in there doing a large front end overhaul that included ball joints (which were the main culprit due to wear), knuckles, axle shafts, and steering linkages.

 

[KNN]

I'm thinking about doing it in stages. Chasing down some DW and BJ/Reid knuckles are next on my list. Came across your posts about upgrading hub assemblies as well and got me thinking...

I eventually want to upgrade to RCV so I can probably do the hubs at the same time then.

 

[KNN]

Anyone have a part number for the Dana Spicer Hub Assembly for JL? I’m only seeing the JK version (10021363). Unless it’s compatible….

tnx

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Ordered both the Dynatrac Ball Joints and Reed Knuckles today!
I received the RPM steering components today, but still waiting on the RCVs.
Like you said, its best to do it all together when its apart.

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