RK 2.5 X factor install

[Martindfletcher]

Now that's funny, I actually thought that was what that hole was for.
The instructions don't jive with my kit, but when I saw the hole there I thought, well, that's the spot.

My instructions said to drill a hole I think, but I had one of the first kits.

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[travelboysteve]

For anyone else reading this, the cutting of the lower control arm bracket is totally optional. I have my arms installed with the zerk fittings pointing DOWN and I will replace the zerk with a plug until I need to maintain them. I have RK's long arm on my two door JK that has been absolutely smoked on the trails and have never broken a zerk off with them facing down. That Jeep is on one tons and 40s to give you guys an idea...

The coil rates are perfect for the Jl and I think you'll be very happy with the ride and handling once it is all together.

Before you start disassembling anything, you can use a couple of pairs of Vice Grips to pry open the clamp/bracket that holds the front brake lines to the arm. This will free them up and make that part way easier. It'll be damn near impossible to hold the bracket and get enough force to pry it open once its off the control arm. This is detailed in the instructions, but should really be one of the DO THIS FIRST steps.

Feel free to ask me if you have any questions or concerns about anything. I have a 2.5 X-Factor on my JLUR.

Marcus

Yeah cheese and rice, I tried prying them off and damn near stuck a screwdriver through my hand.
Then I used vise grips, WAY easier.
I also did not use the 8 inch length on the sway bar links, my sway bar was WAY up in the air at 8".
I dropped it about an inch and while it's not at 90* the sway bar angle is acceptable.
It looked like too much side to side and it would smack the frame at 8"

As far as drill out the control arm bracket, I opted to NOT compromise the structural integrity of the bracket and pointed them down as well.
They are pretty well protected up inside, and if I feel like I'm going through some really pointy rocks, well, I do own a drill and tap, so no worries I guess.

 

[travelboysteve]

Here's a couple of before / after lift on the front with the X-Factor, (waiting on shocks)
No particular order.
The OP has a great lead in to this.
I set my front caster to about 5.5*, I thought it was less, but I just went and checked it on the ground.
So, 5.5ish* is front caster.
I drove it after I did the fronts with no shocks on it. Just around the neighborhood to settle it in after I adjusted the steering wheel which was out by just a bit, >1/4 turn.
Damn it was bouncy.

And then a few pics as I meandered around the garage this weekend.
Still a little more to do, but will upload more when done.
So far, really like the kit, really easy to install all things being equal....

Looks like I got about 4.5+" total with lift / 35" KM3 tires.
Measures 44.5" at front wheel hub to lower lip of front fender for those that are wondering.

I still have some dialing in to do, but so far, loving the lift, quality stuff.
Would highly recommend getting the full kit over a half kit if your budget dictates it.


Before Lift

After Lift - (Sorry about side marker flash)

 

[Dank]

Looks great and I think you'll be happy with the higher Caster numbers. The JL have a higher set point on Caster then the JK's and does make a difference (at least on mine).

 

[Boothorp]

I just got my X factor upper and lower front control arms installed by a local Jeep shop. I’m pretty sure they were installed incorrectly. The LCAs have the bend (elbow) toward the ground. Shouldn’t it go up for more clearance?

 

[bongoray]

I just got my X factor upper and lower front control arms installed by a local Jeep shop. I’m pretty sure they were installed incorrectly. The LCAs have the bend (elbow) toward the ground. Shouldn’t it go up for more clearance?

Yes, that's correct! The bends should go up.

 

[Alacon01]

Also, for those who have Rubicons are you going to use the manual disconnects or the e-discos still? RK says extra articulation could damage the e-disco.

I didn't do full scores because I'm lazy, but on a ramp I get about 2.5"-3.5" more travel by being fully disconnected vs electronic disconnect.

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