RK 2.5 X factor install

[ricardo.cantu]

So most of the kit arrived yesterday, so I thought why not get started.

Thought I’d share my experience so far.

1. I was a little nervous to find out that the springs in this kit weren’t made specifically for the JL. They are springs that are used on previous models of JKs. This might turn out to be perfectly fine and is normal practice, time will tell.

2. Turns out if you want to be able to easily maintenance the Johnny joints you have to cut a chunk out of your lower control bracket. This seems like it would weaken the bracket, but RK shows this step in their instructions, so I’m trusting they know what their doing.

3. I’ve read about people having a hard time loosening the lower control arm bolts. I have a impact driver and they came right off.

4. The recommended length of the front lower control arms provided by RK worked out really well, but the upper arm length was way off. I need to call support because I’m not sure why it’s so off.

5. I also removed the fenders. I’m going to see if there’s any way I can delete that inner piece and still retain the side markers.

I will continue installing the rest in the coming days.

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[ricardo.cantu]

Talked to Jeremy over at RK support and he was a great help.

Couple of really great tips.

1. Torque johnny joints off the vehicle with a vice.
2. Disconnect drag link and remove both springs in order to easily install control arms at recommend lengths.
3. Don’t forget to order bump stops separate, they don’t come with X factor kit that doesn’t have shocks.
4. Go with 3-4 inch lift rated shocks even for a 2.5 lift.

 

[Moto_21]

Talked to Jeremy over at RK support and he was a great help.

Couple of really great tips.

1. Torque johnny joints off the vehicle with a vice.
2. Disconnect drag link and remove both springs in order to easily install control arms at recommend lengths.
3. Don’t forget to order bump stops separate, they don’t come with X factor kit that doesn’t have shocks.
4. Go with 3-4 inch lift rated shocks even for a 2.5 lift.

Tech support told you to go with 3.5” springs for the 2.5”?

 

[ricardo.cantu]

No, shocks. Basically, go with shocks with more travel to maximize articulation.

 

[Moto_21]

No, shocks. Basically, go with shocks with more travel to maximize articulation.

Sorry misread my bad

 

[River City Offroad]

For anyone else reading this, the cutting of the lower control arm bracket is totally optional. I have my arms installed with the zerk fittings pointing DOWN and I will replace the zerk with a plug until I need to maintain them. I have RK's long arm on my two door JK that has been absolutely smoked on the trails and have never broken a zerk off with them facing down. That Jeep is on one tons and 40s to give you guys an idea...

The coil rates are perfect for the Jl and I think you'll be very happy with the ride and handling once it is all together.

Before you start disassembling anything, you can use a couple of pairs of Vice Grips to pry open the clamp/bracket that holds the front brake lines to the arm. This will free them up and make that part way easier. It'll be damn near impossible to hold the bracket and get enough force to pry it open once its off the control arm. This is detailed in the instructions, but should really be one of the DO THIS FIRST steps.

Feel free to ask me if you have any questions or concerns about anything. I have a 2.5 X-Factor on my JLUR.

Marcus

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Great job with the install. The springs are 100% correct for the application. The rates, rate changes and travel. It just worked out or they would never be offered ever. We did have to add some new part numbers for the JL to complete the line up for spring and provide the performance, ride, handling etc that we expect.

Please note: The clearancing of the control arm mount is optional. You can always have the zinc face down or use a right angle fitting on your grease gun. There is no concerns of structure to the mount by adding the clearance for a straight fitting grease gun. Yes, it may take 5 minutes to do each side, but if you only have straight fittings on your grease guns it will make life a lot easier down the road.

Also, be sure to use the recommended 000 grease always! Do not ever hesitate to give us a shout and ask questions. We are always here to help.

 

[ricardo.cantu]

Suspension, wheels and tires - done.

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Looks killer! We are liking the fact that we are seeing more and more separated fenders just like the factory designed around! Sick build.

RK

 

[travelboysteve]

For anyone else reading this, the cutting of the lower control arm bracket is totally optional. I have my arms installed with the zerk fittings pointing DOWN and I will replace the zerk with a plug until I need to maintain them. I have RK's long arm on my two door JK that has been absolutely smoked on the trails and have never broken a zerk off with them facing down. That Jeep is on one tons and 40s to give you guys an idea...

The coil rates are perfect for the Jl and I think you'll be very happy with the ride and handling once it is all together.

Before you start disassembling anything, you can use a couple of pairs of Vice Grips to pry open the clamp/bracket that holds the front brake lines to the arm. This will free them up and make that part way easier. It'll be damn near impossible to hold the bracket and get enough force to pry it open once its off the control arm. This is detailed in the instructions, but should really be one of the DO THIS FIRST steps.

Feel free to ask me if you have any questions or concerns about anything. I have a 2.5 X-Factor on my JLUR.

Marcus

You damn well know I'll be calling you once my 3.3's come in,......

 

[travelboysteve]

So most of the kit arrived yesterday, so I thought why not get started.

Thought I’d share my experience so far.

1. I was a little nervous to find out that the springs in this kit weren’t made specifically for the JL. They are springs that are used on previous models of JKs. This might turn out to be perfectly fine and is normal practice, time will tell.

2. Turns out if you want to be able to easily maintenance the Johnny joints you have to cut a chunk out of your lower control bracket. This seems like it would weaken the bracket, but RK shows this step in their instructions, so I’m trusting they know what their doing.

3. I’ve read about people having a hard time loosening the lower control arm bolts. I have a impact driver and they came right off.

4. The recommended length of the front lower control arms provided by RK worked out really well, but the upper arm length was way off. I need to call support because I’m not sure why it’s so off.

5. I also removed the fenders. I’m going to see if there’s any way I can delete that inner piece and still retain the side markers.

I will continue installing the rest in the coming days.

Did you ever work out the side markers?
Been poking around mine to see what is needed.

Will be starting my lift this coming weekend, (work permitting)

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Travelboysteve Nice - clean install

 

[River City Offroad]

You damn well know I'll be calling you once my 3.3's come in,......

I've got a set inbound for mine! Let me know when you're ready brother!

 

[travelboysteve]

I've got a set inbound for mine! Let me know when you're ready brother!

Hey Marcus, put 'em on and let me know about the blinker.
Not sure it's bright enough or if it's DOT approved.

Here in Commiefornia, the LEO's sometimes give a sh*t about what we do to our vehicles.

I mean, running the 395 towards Mammoth with front tinted windows will get you a better than 50/50 chance of getting stopped and cited if you can believe it.
3 times for me so far.

 

[travelboysteve]

Travelboysteve Nice - clean install

Not my install, but thanks?

I'll take some photos, still waiting on shocks.

Ahem, Marcus, any updates?

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