Rhino Rack, how to mount an awning?

[NJRadioGuy]

So I just had my Rhino-Rack Pioneer 6 platform professionally installed on my JL a couple of weeks ago. I was hoping to mount my new awning this week but I've run into an issue.

All the dozens videos I've watched show that there supposed to be openings in the rails to insert T-nuts or other hardware to secure various things to the roof. As you can see in these images, I don't have any openings to get mounting hardware inside the channel, and the end caps seem to be permanently in place with no screws to remove to take them off.

Did I order the wrong rack, or did they ship me the wrong rack? How am I supposed to mount things like my awning, a Roam box, or Maxtrax to the rack with no way to fit the hardware?

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[OminousSkitter]

That looks like a change from previous Pioneer Platforms and the newest ones. The Pioneer Platform 6 states they "[removed] channel apertures [to ebable] 100% of the platform useable for mounting accessories." Also, they claim the corners are removable to expose the channels.

Page 25 of the instructions mentions how to do it:

 

[NJRadioGuy]

I did try that (pushing in on the tabs) but I was probably a bit too gentle; I didn't want to risk breaking the end cap off. I didn't keep the instruction form, though. I gave it to the installers.

Does anybody make those Zwifloc things aftermarket? $60+ shipping for a set of 8 is beyond ridiculous. Can't find anything on Amazon. They also look a bit suspicious to me that they could hold a heavy awning and not vibrate loose over time and come out on the highway.

 

[JLRyder]

Can you just use a bolt? I have the Go Rhino SRM 500 and you slide an 1/4” bolt in the grove and that’s all you need. Don’t know if this would also work for your situation.

 

[NJRadioGuy]

Can you just use a bolt? I have the Go Rhino SRM 500 and you slide an 1/4” bolt in the grove and that’s all you need. Don’t know if this would also work for your situation.

I'd like some meat on the fastener to secure it to the rack, which is what the T-nuts are for. The ideal solution was the opening to slide them in, the way it obviously was in the past, but I guess they wanted to increase their profits by making everybody buy what appear to be their proprietary fasteners instead. Wish I'd known; I would have bought another brand instead.

 

[OminousSkitter]

I'd like some meat on the fastener to secure it to the rack, which is what the T-nuts are for. The ideal solution was the opening to slide them in, the way it obviously was in the past, but I guess they wanted to increase their profits by making everybody buy what appear to be their proprietary fasteners instead. Wish I'd known; I would have bought another brand instead.

Proprietary fasteners are all the rage because they can patent them and charge ridiculous amounts. But, Rhino Rack is still backwards compatible with all the former channel nuts they used. You are just supposed to pop the top of the end caps off. If one doesn't want to budge, try the other one?

Honestly, I prefer the old system. I wouldn't trust those tiny tabs not breaking off after 5 years of sun and weather.

 

[NJRadioGuy]

Yeah, I just watched a few videos with the Zwiflocs and I'm really not impressed. A big step backwards IMHO. Once I have my setup dialed in I doubt I will ever change it. All I want is a waterproof storage box (Roam, Pelican, AAL, etc), and traction boards along with my Gazelle T-4 tent, which is why I bought the rack in the first place.

 

[Jeffy56]

Reading thru this a couple thoughts. T-nuts in the original sense are used in mechanical assembly of aluminum frames to build custom equipment. The nuts easily inserted into a channel along its length, best with a matching bolt. Turning the bolt/nut 90° would engage the wings of the nut into the channel. This works, however over torquing the assembly will distort the aluminum channel and could put out the T-nut. Alternately, some channels will accept a carriage nut, which is square, by sliding it down from an open end. Requires better planning, but the carriage nut has more contact in the slide channel. In other words, you may have some options. Square nuts are a lot cheaper than T-nuts.

 

[Renrap]

Yeah, I just watched a few videos with the Zwiflocs and I'm really not impressed. A big step backwards IMHO. Once I have my setup dialed in I doubt I will ever change it. All I want is a waterproof storage box (Roam, Pelican, AAL, etc), and traction boards along with my Gazelle T-4 tent, which is why I bought the rack in the first place.

Did you figure out how to mount it? I recently put the rhino rack on my jeep and I can definitely help you figure some stuff out and hopefully save you some time and money from my mistakes.

 

[NJRadioGuy]

Did you figure out how to mount it? I recently put the rhino rack on my jeep and I can definitely help you figure some stuff out and hopefully save you some time and money from my mistakes.

I paid a shop to install it, and I bit the bullet and bought the Zwiflocks. It's all good!

 

[Ry_CO]

As a couple of folks on this thread seem to have installed the latest Pioneer 6 platform, I would love to hear from a few about whistling noise from the rack. I ask because I recently installed it on my JLU with the RJLB1 backbone and the low profile legs (RCL), and over 40 mph I have a horrible whistling noise. Over 60 mph, and it's super high pitched and very loud! I can't keep it like this.

I had an earlier Pioneer platform on my WK2 with no whistling. There was noise, which I'm ready to accept, but no high-pitched whistling like I have now on the JL.

I wonder if others here have had the same experience? If not, what's different about your setup then? Perhaps the higher profile legs (RCH) don't have the same issue?

(and while you can see rack accessories in my profile pic, the whistling comes from the bare rack itself--tested with no accessories)

I really don't want to try to use a wind fairing. I saw a trick on YouTube to reduce wind noise by wrapping nylon cord or rope around crossbars, so maybe I can play with this. But first, if anyone else has experienced the same issue and resolved it, please please share how you did it!

 

[NJRadioGuy]

I have had the rack on all summer, high and low speed driving, and zero issues with it. I forget whether these are the low-profile or the higher legs (I had a shop install it), but these are the ones the do not have the quick-release mount for the platform. I mean yes, it's noisier than without a rack, but below about 65 MPH it's not objectionable, and there is no whistling. At the moment I have a Topoak 270° awning on the driver's side, and two Maxtrax boards on the passenger side. I haven't used it for any kind of cargo, and I've contemplated putting a 100W solar panel up there once I figure out the wiring issues.

 

[Ry_CO]

I have had the rack on all summer, high and low speed driving, and zero issues with it. I forget whether these are the low-profile or the higher legs (I had a shop install it), but these are the ones the do not have the quick-release mount for the platform. I mean yes, it's noisier than without a rack, but below about 65 MPH it's not objectionable, and there is no whistling. At the moment I have a Topoak 270° awning on the driver's side, and two Maxtrax boards on the passenger side. I haven't used it for any kind of cargo, and I've contemplated putting a 100W solar panel up there once I figure out the wiring issues.

Thanks for sharing! Every data point helps. I'm also happy for you to not have the whistling! But darn, more of a head scratcher now. Haha.

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