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real electric range numbers.

jameslavis

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want to see what you are getting. i’m running ko2s. matched original stock size. getting 13milrs or 21km on electric only.

def not the 20 miles but the stock tires are shit and thin. seems low but maybe the added grip knocked 7 miles off
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That seems very low. I'm getting between 24 to 26 on my Rubicon 4xE with the stock 33" Ko2's. Weather plays a big roll though and it's around 55 to 60F here where I am in the mornings when I use all of my electric range to get me to work.

I'm sure my range will dip a little now that I just installed a steel bumper. I'll see how much tomorrow during my commute.
 
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jameslavis

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that’s what i thought. not sure how to diagnose. the second they see the ko2s i suspect they will say that’s the culprit. in toronto it’s about 10c right now but i don’t think it should be that low
 

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that’s what i thought. not sure how to diagnose. the second they see the ko2s i suspect they will say that’s the culprit. in toronto it’s about 10c right now but i don’t think it should be that low
They shouldn't since Ko2's are also original equipment for Jeeps. Plus even if you had 35's and a lift I'd still think you'd get better electric range than 13 miles unless you have a lead foot and driving against a head wind.
 
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jameslavis

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so digging i found a few things. temp. it’s just under 10c in canada. second i was doing 95kph. so all the nice tests see people keeping it in the city and doing around 60. not reality.
 

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Mgg253

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Low temps, higher speeds and fast acceleration I find to be the 3 biggest range killers. Easy driving around town I easily get 20. I have to really baby it to stretch to 24.
 

Getmadboy

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I have a Sahara 4xe with rubicon 17” wheels and 33” KO2’s. I get about 25-27 miles on all electric during my commute to work (17 miles on the highway each way). I also consciously watch my battery usage during the drive and try to maximize it as much as possible so I would think I would get somehwere between 20-25 miles if I was just driving and not paying attention to the battery usage
 
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jameslavis

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i’ll be testing it more this week. agree on the triple threat: temp, accel and speed. i was doing highway which is great for IcE but shit for EV. as this is factory fresh i’m doubting any glitch in the build just more real world. i think for certain driving conditions it works
 
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jameslavis

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for those like me here is a video of reality. not my video.


you lower the temp or increase speed you’ll do worse. that’s been my experience. he drives at 35 mph.

lesson? go esave for long drive on higher speed. ICE works best there. when you hit a city flip into hybrid or ev.

if you leave in hybrid you’ll nuke the battery first and be left with an overweight 2.0. the software should be smarter than just using the battery first. they should use the right engine at the right condition. highway(ice) vs EV (city)
 

Skeethree

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I've gotten as few as 17 miles and as many as 30 from my completely stock JLURe. Outside temperature, use of heat or a/c, and speed all have an impact.
 

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the software should be smarter than just using the battery first. they should use the right engine at the right condition. highway(ice) vs EV (city)
How would you propose the computer knows what sort of driving conditions you'll have e later on in your drive? Just does ice over a certain speed? What if your drive one the highway is short or only has a small city section when you get off? Not using the battery first is great in theory, as long as you know you'll have enough time in electric to deplete the battery between charges, but the last thing you want to do is plug back in with power in the battery after doing a trip burning gas.
 

BXFXJeep

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for those like me here is a video of reality. not my video.


you lower the temp or increase speed you’ll do worse. that’s been my experience. he drives at 35 mph.

lesson? go esave for long drive on higher speed. ICE works best there. when you hit a city flip into hybrid or ev.

if you leave in hybrid you’ll nuke the battery first and be left with an overweight 2.0. the software should be smarter than just using the battery first. they should use the right engine at the right condition. highway(ice) vs EV (city)
Yes that would be easy enough to program in, once the 4xe hit highway speeds it should flip to ICE.

I don't use the highway much, so I e-save most of the time when I remember, but the system should be doing that, since we already have an electric button to keep it in electric if we so choose while on the highway.
 

imthatguy

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Easily 35km in the city.
 

mllcb42

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Yes that would be easy enough to program in, once the 4xe hit highway speeds it should flip to ICE.
I had a drive today that was a perfect example of why this is a bad idea.

Went to work, popped it into e-save when I got on the highway, back into hybrid when I got off the highway to go to work.

Did the reverse coming home.

So I was in electric the entire time I was in city, ice the entire time on the highway.

When I got home, I had about 30% soc remaining. That's wasted gas I used that would have otherwise used electric.

Now, had I popped it over into electric part way through my highway drive home and timed it just right so that I reached <1% soc pulling into my driveway, I agree that this would have been the optimal efficiency profile, however, that would require me to know exactly the route I was taking and properly project when to switch modes to go back into electric. By burning the electric first, you at least remove any chance of coming back not on empty.
 
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jameslavis

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ev miles were fine today in controlled use. from all my use the second you try to go above 100km, flip it to gas. at that speed ev is useless.

as for why software should watch this? right now the system is basic. burn ev first no matter what then pepper ICE once depleted. these two engines are vast opposites.

you nuke ev on any speed over 90kmph. you destroy gas when city driving. use them where they do their best. can this be done? yes of course it can.
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