Radiator

[00 Trans Ram]

It looks like the stock one is a 2-row. or a narrow 3-row. In any case, it's pretty thin. There looks to be definite room for a thicker radiator, given you are OK with trimming some fan shroud plastic on top.

Now, mounting a generic radiator isn't that hard. Bend some metal, maybe weld it, or just bolt it, to the frame.

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[Plongson]

Just some additional info...I called Griffin radiator in South Carolina and they got nothing but can build anything I want for >$1000 clams...Ya...how bad do I want to dig.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

I'm honestly skeptical about how much a Gladiator grille would make a difference. Here's my logic (please prove me wrong - I would love to put one on and have it make a difference!).

You can see that the stock radiator is already only about the width of the middle 5 openings. In other words, the grille is already bigger than the radiator. Now, half of the space is taken up by solid grille. So, I'm not saying that open area is the same square inches as the radiator (though, I'll bet it's close). What I am saying is that the additional open space from the Gladiator grill can't be more than a fraction of a square inch.

In other words, I would think that 1-2*F ambient air changes would make more difference. When I put a big winch up there, I didn't notice a single difference in temps. I mean, I got different temps on different days. But, I wasn't able to pinpoint a major uptick in average temps over time compared to before the winch.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

Just went and measured. Stock rad is about 23" wide and 21" tall. But, i dont think anything we've talked about is the main issue.

There is a full AC condenser and at least a full width (unsure about height) oil cooler IN FRONT of the rad. So, you heat up the air from your AC, then heat it more from your oil, and now you've got, what, 180* air trying to cool your engine?

No wonder it runs so hot!

 

[Plongson]

These poor little engines hardly have a chance! I hate to reverse engineer this stuff and I wonder if the guys designing the rig were aware of the problems and did the best they could... I dunno...

I know one thing, I not spending a grand to gamble on improving the cool down.
Guess I'll just back off and watch the temp gauge.

 

[Deleted member 59498]

Didn't know the AC needed all that!

 

[garykk]

I’m thinking of replacing the grille with a Gladiator grille but have to find out if the Gladiator grille with trail cam is the same as the cutout for the bolt lock on the JL.
when towing my UTV, the JL has hit 240…I think these engines go into limp mode around 250.

After reading my post over again, I realized that the temps I’m talking about are the oil temps. My coolant temps has never left the normal range.

 

[grimmjeeper]

People get too uptight about the temperatures the diesel runs at.

These engines have been designed to run at these temperatures. Getting freaked out over 230-240° is a waste of time. Besides, changing out the radiator won't change when the thermostat opens so it won't keep the temperatures down any better.

Sure, if you start trying to tow 7K plus up a steep grade at 80MPH in the middle of summer you're going to overheat. But you're likely to overheat any of the engines in the JL/JT doing that.

Best advice is to just run the Jeep as is. If you're overheating to the point of de-rating frequently, then worry about it. And at that point either you're over working it in which case you need more truck for what you're doing, or you actually have a legitimate problem and need to get it fixed.

If you're not derating the engine, it's fine.

 

[00 Trans Ram]

There's a video somewhere around here where they (Jeep) talk about it. Basically, they couldn't make it wider because of fenders and headlights. They couldn't go down because of clearance. They couldn't go up because of hood lines. And then couldn't make it much thicker because the engine was there.

I think, IIRC, they made the fin density higher??

 

[ALeeL]

I got this Info from Jeep after being VERY persistent...

In my opinion this way too warm. Maybe great for emission standards but not longevity. If I could have it NEVER exceed 215°f (101°c) I'd be tickled.

Just for referance, I'm running in the American Southwest where surface temps can reach 120°f with NO problem...AND at times pulling a travel trailer or ATV tandem trailer with a Honda Pioneer weighing 1700 lbs.

Running light on the highway, getting groceries or on trails is never a problem.

Ironically, those are the same temps my deleted BMW 328D diesel runs. It is a only a 2.0L inline 4 diesel and has a lot of room in the engine bay since these cars also fit an inline 6 diesel as well which makes around the same power as the Ram Gen 3 Ecodiesel. My car has about 150k on the clock running those temps, but there are many in the forums pushing 300k especially in Europe where they are used as police vehicles in some countries.

 

[Plongson]

Sure, if you start trying to tow 7K plus up a steep grade at 80MPH in the middle of summer you're going to overheat. But you're likely to overheat any of the engines in the JL/JT doing that.

Well GrimmJeeper...

Guess I miss the part in (my) thread where I said any of that...funny how things JUST appear on the internet...lol

No, I'm talking about a light tandem axel trailer with a Honda SXS, 75°f ambient, 6000' elevation climbing a modest grade and running 50mph in 5th and sometimes 6th.

The engine is MORE than capable, the cooling ability is woefully inadequate...and honestly it's not too much to ask of this JLURD.

Bottom line, somebody "F'd" up and let this rig out of the gate with this deficiency. Perhaps you don't agree but I'm guessing (on the internet here) that you are also satisfied with the awesome and amazing HPFP the mothership installed to save cash at OUR expense.

The majority of ALL these rigs I'm guessing rarely see dirt, outside of a gutter and Stellantis or MoPar did the math and those folks are just fine. You build to the majority...keep THEM happy and us 1% can pound sand.

You can say...ya, we disagree.

 

[ChuckQue]

Brother, this has been beat on like crazy here and the JT forum. The common consensus is the radiator isn’t so much the issue, it’s the oil cooler. Boost builds, oil heats up, and it’s a domino effect from there. People have reported better results from staying out of boost as much as possible in the circumstances you described.

Yeah, an aftermarket oil cooler would be ideal. Bulletproof Diesel was exploring it but nothing came from it last I heard. I do think a custom radiator would be worth a shot but like you said at $1k+ it’s a costly endeavor for an uncertain outcome.

Also, the hood vents have been tried with no discernible advantage at highway speeds. Off road crawling, that’s different and not applicable to your situation.

 

[ChuckQue]

What I really want to do is buy one of these and see if I can cajole the guys at Bud’s Diesel to figure out a way to make it work with our JL’s. It would need a fan and shroud setup, with a suitable mounting location. That’s the main problem I can see, there’s just no damn place for it…

https://hilldiesel.com/products/h-s-motorsports-14-15-ram-3-0l-ecodiesel-oil-cooler-upgrade-kit

 

[Sydwaiz]

Brother, this has been beat on like crazy here and the JT forum. The common consensus is the radiator isn’t so much the issue, it’s the oil cooler. Boost builds, oil heats up, and it’s a domino effect from there. People have reported better results from staying out of boost as much as possible in the circumstances you described.

Yeah, an aftermarket oil cooler would be ideal. Bulletproof Diesel was exploring it but nothing came from it last I heard. I do think a custom radiator would be worth a shot but like you said at $1k+ it’s a costly endeavor for an uncertain outcome.

Also, the hood vents have been tried with no discernible advantage at highway speeds. Off road crawling, that’s different and not applicable to your situation.

Pretty much this. Stay out of boost! The turbos on these are also water cooled. When you build boost, you create a lot of heat that gets dumped right into the coolant which is why you see rapid coolant temp spikes. Keep your boost low and EGTs down.

I've reached out to Banks as well about this and they have nothing in the works either unfortunately.

Install gauges, watch your boost and EGTs, use lower gears. Yes, we love diesels for their torque down low but sometimes we need to use RPMs to keep temps in check.

 

[JLeco2022]

just infact people are wondering, the turbo can get to 1500f, thus is why i watch my turbo temps, it will have a cascading effect on your cooling system if you keep your boost up.

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