Quick question about load testing

[Pape]

Long story short got a u0111 code and the voltage at 10v. Fully charged the battery over night in a warm garage and today all good, charge at 14.2~14.7 depending on temperature. The usual culprit for u0111 is a bad battery, so got a load tester and now wondering, should I:

1. hook it up directly on the battery pole and go to town
2. hook it up on the IBS side of the battery and go to town
3. remove the battery of the jeep and test it

Yes, I will make sure it is fully charge and does not hold residual charge before testing. I will be applying 350 amp load for 15 sec.
Battery is close to 3 years old, before you ask.
Thanks

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[THAW]

Disconnect the battery from the vehicle for the load test.

 

[Pape]

Did it connected to the IBS, figured out cannot be worse than running a winch at max load.
Battery passed with some margin.
I guess next step would be parasitic drain

 

[THAW]

Did it connected, figured out cannot be worse than running a winch at max load.
Battery passed with some margin.
I guess next step would be parasitic drain

Yup, not necessary, but recommended as a precaution and for accuracy.

 

[ScotM]

I usually disconnect the battery from the negative and positive to test it , basically number 3 without lifting it out of the Jeep.

 

[Pape]

will probably wait for the parasitic draw, I still have the check engine light on, so will probably send it to the dealer as it is under warranty before I clear out the code doing the drain test.

 

[58Willys]

Did it connected to the IBS, figured out cannot be worse than running a winch at max load.
Battery passed with some margin.
I guess next step would be parasitic drain

Do you still have your aux battery connected? If so, you load tested both batteries, not an accurate test. Pull both leads of the main and load test the main, then load test aux if you have one. I wouldn’t test for than 10 sec, that will get a good reading and not smoke your battery.

 

[AndySpill]

Do you still have your aux battery connected? If so, you load tested both batteries, not an accurate test. Pull both leads of the main and load test the main, then load test aux if you have one. I wouldn’t test for than 10 sec, that will get a good reading and not smoke your battery.

If you have an Auxiliary battery, you can test it without the hassle of gaining direct access to its terminals by temporarily removing the thinner of the two factory cables that attach on the negative post of the main battery. (If your model of Wrangler is not equipped with this secondary battery you will not see these two cables where I describe...unless the Auxiliary battery has already been disconnected.)

Attaching your load tester's negative lead to the aforementioned disconnected cable and the load tester's positive one to the positive terminal of the main battery (that's correct, I did say main battery) will solely test the Auxiliary battery's power.

Make sure to reconnect that cable after testing and keep it away from vehicle body metal.

This advice works because the main battery's positive post's cables ultimately connect to those of the Auxiliary battery, and the only circuit you will complete effecting this is to Auxiliary battery.

 

[Pape]

Do you still have your aux battery connected? If so, you load tested both batteries, not an accurate test. Pull both leads of the main and load test the main, then load test aux if you have one. I wouldn’t test for than 10 sec, that will get a good reading and not smoke your battery.

Thanks for poining that out, appreciated. Forgot to mention e-torque 3.6

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