With the enormous torque of the diesel you don't need to go as low as with a 3.6, but I don't think you can get tons in 4.10.Ok, I have been reading a lot about this upgrade. Been kicking this around for more then a year now. What is the best tons that are simply bolt on installation that do not require any mods. Keep in mind, I do all my work myself. I have really been thinking of this upgrade for a year now. My plan is tons with 38’s on my diesel with 4.10’s. Let me know the pros and cons. Thanks.
Interesting the R&P didn't suffer. My buddy's JKUR on 38's with chromoly axles followed a buggy on 37's. The buggy used his twin stick to climb the undercut rock. The JKUK dug in and scored the hat trick: twisted axle shaft, sheard R&P.No wheel hop. He was trying to climb a rock ledge. It wasn’t undercut, but bound up enough to go - snap.
And you have to live with their suspect air locker, you can't get it with an ARB. Was seriously looking at DSTRAC but so happy with my ProRock60/80's on my LRJ.Exactly what I'm looking at. Shaved 14. they said they have their own case coming soon with clearance built in like shaved option.
Dstrac has some good prices, but once you add the options in they are only $1k or so less than fusion and their customer support feedback sucks somewhat.. Hence me looking at fusion instead..
38 & 39 you're at or past the ragged edge of a built D44. Many lines require you to bump it and you can't do that with a built D44. Having said that, I tend to agree with you. Get the tons and go 40's. I limit my JLR on 38's to crawling only, when I need to bump it, I take my LJR.If your end goal is to run 38s, I wouldn't say you need one tons. If you've gotta have em for the sake of having em, more power to you. Tons of members run 37s/38s/39s on their factory D44s and for the most part, have been issue free. As with anything, you'll find those with problems, but the majority haven't had many issues. My Jeep was wheeled hard on 37s for 2 years and 30k miles, and then we put on 39 BFG KM3s for the last 2 years/20k miles.
As to the question of who is "best", you won't find an objective answer. There is at least one member with a set of tons from each different manufacturer, and their threads/reviews are buried somewhere on the forum. Most any set of crate axles that you buy will be bolt in with little to no extra effort. That said, as others have mentioned, you'll need 8 lug wheels if you go full float (you should), new driveshafts, hydro assist if you go 40+ tires (which is why most go with one tons), and of course the new tires of your choice.
FWIW, I went with the KP60/Shaved 13 bolt Fusion4x4 to support the 42" tires I'll be running. They just showed up on Tuesday, and I ordered them on January 15th. Dan from Fusion was great to work with and answered all my questions and made suggestions based on intentions and I am really excited to get the install done.
No ARB is exactly why I crossed DSTRAC off the short list.With the enormous torque of the diesel you don't need to go as low as with a 3.6, but I don't think you can get tons in 4.10.
40 is about the limit for a 2 door. While you're getting tons, why not mount 40's?
38's on tons would be very robust.
Interesting the R&P didn't suffer. My buddy's JKUR on 38's with chromoly axles followed a buggy on 37's. The buggy used his twin stick to climb the undercut rock. The JKUK dug in and scored the hat trick: twisted axle shaft, sheard R&P.
And you have to live with their suspect air locker, you can't get it with an ARB. Was seriously looking at DSTRAC but so happy with my ProRock60/80's on my LRJ.
38 & 39 you're at or past the ragged edge of a built D44. Many lines require you to bump it and you can't do that with a built D44. Having said that, I tend to agree with you. Get the tons and go 40's. I limit my JLR on 38's to crawling only, when I need to bump it, I take my LJR.