New Wheels 0mm offset or 17mm offset?

[KeysJeeper]

I finally saw the light and bought a JL for my daily driver. I have a '23 JL Sahara with stock 18" wheels and 265 R65-18 All terrain tires. The vehicle rides great and will see mostly pavement. I would like to keep the tires and change the wheels without suspension mods. The wheels I like are 18 x 8.5 and come in 0mm offset or +19mm offset. My understanding is the 0mm offset wheels will stick out 1.7" more than current and the +19 about half of that. Questions are: 1.) Will the 0mm offset wheels rub with stock suspension? 2.) What are the pros/cons of the wheel sticking out that far? 3.) What and where is the market to resell stock Jeep wheels? Must be a ton of them out there.
Thanks.

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[verapx]

If you're leaving the suspension alone and are keeping the same tires, I would get the rims closest to stock. The more your rims stick out the worse your scrub radius. Meaning the tires will want to drag around when turning and it will be harder on your steering. You may not like the way it steers with the 0 offset rims. Look up scrub radius for an explanation. good luck.

 

[Reinen]

If you're leaving the suspension alone and are keeping the same tires, I would get the rims closest to stock. The more your rims stick out the worse your scrub radius. Meaning the tires will want to drag around when turning and it will be harder on your steering. You may not like the way it steers with the 0 offset rims. Look up scrub radius for an explanation. good luck.

Except the Jeep doesn't have IFS. So this isn't a thing.

 

[verapx]

Except the Jeep doesn't have IFS. So this isn't a thing.

Yes it is. Solid axle definitely , IFS I don't know about.

 

[azwjowner]

Yes it is. Solid axle definitely , IFS I don't know about.

Scrub radius is a function of the ball joints, knuckles, and wheel offsets and so is a concern on both IFS and solid axles.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

@KeysJeeper Be forewarned, changing your wheels could void warranties. It's surprisingly easy to void warranties!

 

[JINO]

@KeysJeeper Be forewarned, changing your wheels could void warranties. It's surprisingly easy to void warranties!

I've never had issues with warranty regarding wheels....

My JKUR had lifetime warranty.
.I had teraflex suspension, fox shocks, fuel anza wheels, bfg km3s. They always complimented my jeep and that my jeep is one of the few jeeps getting serviced with dents scratches and dings underside of the jeep.

Hell, I brought my jeep in because it was whining (alternator), it was caked in mud, and they replaced it under warranty.
Fuel pump died, replaced and told me not to let gas get too low.
.sadly that JKUR got rear ended and totalled. They don't offer lifetime warranty anymore.

What they did tell me was that whatever I upgraded that part is longer under warranty, or whatever that part can affect.
I had a high tuck exhaust, they were fine with that. They told me NOT to ever get air intake, as they would not warranty the engine if I did. They're very honest to me.
I drive 95 miles to get serviced there.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

I've never had issues with warranty regarding wheels....

My JKUR had lifetime warranty.
.I had teraflex suspension, fox shocks, fuel anza wheels, bfg km3s. They always complimented my jeep and that my jeep is one of the few jeeps getting serviced with dents scratches and dings underside of the jeep.

Hell, I brought my jeep in because it was whining (alternator), it was caked in mud, and they replaced it under warranty.
Fuel pump died, replaced and told me not to let gas get too low.
.sadly that JKUR got rear ended and totalled. They don't offer lifetime warranty anymore.

What they did tell me was that whatever I upgraded that part is longer under warranty, or whatever that part can affect.
I had a high tuck exhaust, they were fine with that. They told me NOT to ever get air intake, as they would not warranty the engine if I did. They're very honest to me.
I drive 95 miles to get serviced there.

Sounds like a one-of-a-kind dealership. Which dealership is that, just curious?

Yeah that's my understanding. When you replace a part, that part and any portions of the vehicle affected by it may harm your warranty.

I'm pretty sure all warranties on my Wrangler are void at this point. I put in a K&N air filter, pretty sure that voided my engine warranty. If not, I'm about to void it soon anyways with my next major modification.

It's definitely one of those things that I never have experienced before. Mainly because all my other vehicles were either used or what little warranties they did have, they weren't the kinds of vehicles you would modify. My Wrangler is the first vehicle I want to put my time and money into and make it EXTREME!!!

 

[jeepoch]

@KeysJeeper

Bob,

The lower the offset number the more 'poke' (the farther away from vehicle centerline) will be the result.

So a 0 mm offset wheel will have the tires further towards the outside of the fender well as compared to a 19 mm by that amount. The 19 mm offset will therefore have the tires closer to the inside of the fender well.

Other factors such as the size and width of the tire must be more carefully considered with positive wheel offsets. The potential risk of tire rubbing increases while turning (or flexing) with tires moved closer to the inside of the fender wells.

Obviously with a lower offset value the chance of rubbing decreases. But there are both pros and cons of having wheels poke (stick out) too far.

Pros:
- Wider stance. This effectively results in a lower center of gravity (cg), which generally yields better handling. This also helps counter-balance raising your rig when installing a lift kit.
- Allows for bigger and wider tires regardless of lift.
- More aesthetically appealing. It certainly makes your rig look a little more bad ass.

Cons:
- Allows more road grime to extend past the fender wells. The sides of your Jeep will be exposed to more splashback.
- Nanny states that don't allow tires to extend past the fender wells for this reason. Fear of throwing stones or road debris outside the perimeter of the wheel well.
- Decrease in mileage due to extra drag from lower aerodynamics. Tires that remain completely inside the fender well offer lower air resistance.

Regardless of all that crap, the overall benefit mostly depends on how you're going to use your vehicle. Off-road, the bigger, wider tires with the highest possible suspension articulation without rubbing is paramount. On-road, pretty much just the opposite. Tire size needs to match the designed gear ratios of your differentials for best performance regardless of stance. Either way, gearing changes are another factor that people will debate until their blue...

Lastly, just for a reference point, here is my setup with -12 mm offset wheels on 35's with the 2" Mopar lift. I live in Colorado (not yet a nanny state) and routinely find myself above treeline at 12000 feet (or higher) on some of the most panoramic vistas the Rocky Mountains can offer.

I imagine this is a little different from the Florida keys where the average altitude is likely just inches above sea-level? But I'll bet the deep sand still may present off-road challenges that demand better than stock rubber.

Regardless of where you live, it's all about where you want to go. JLs are incredibly capable machines no matter how you personalize them.

Jay

 

[Ahre]

Scrub Radius is a function of King Pin Axis of Rotation intersecting Tire Centerline at the point of Tire Patche contact with the Road.

 

[The Last Cowboy]

All of the above statements should be taken into consideration. However, you should also consider that the relatively small tires you have now will look worse on the 8.5" wheels. You are going to put those on a new wheel that is a full 1" wider. If you go with the zero ffset to push the track wider, the resulting look usually isn't good. I suggest a wider tire if you want to go with a wider wheel.

The con of a narrower tire on a wider wheel is that you have a lot less protection for the edge of the wheel, making it vulnerable to rocks and curbs.

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