Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

[Gator Overland]

Car is running, stationary, trans in neutral, clutch depressed, trying to shift into first. I get 1st and reverse lockout ( as in "Locked Out" of) preventing engagement, and have gotten stuck in reverse, but not first.

People as a work around, fully shift to second then into first, I am determing if the full action is needed. Attempt one has informed me that just apon 1st gear lockout, I just shift slightly towards 2nd, then i can shift into first. Not actually shifting into second at all.

Jeep shifts fine while not running, but I've never shut it down at lockout and tried to shift in. Which I will do next time it occurs. Just to gather more data.

Thanks for clarifying… This 100% is something I experienced with the OEM clutch and maybe slightly more exaggerated and/or the occurrences after the ACT… I typically downshift my slow down negotiations according to my speed in the case that I might need to start accelerating so im in The appropriate gear…( I also think I’m Mario Andretti).. like you said I never have to fully engage second, I more or less just bump towards 2nd gear direction and going into first usually isn’t a problem, so that particular maneuver has become a habit. I do periodically start off in second which is where I started to notice not engaging as well as in first… I observed the leaky residue of the slave cylinder and now I have around 300 miles since replacement and no shifting lockouts, but have had instances where engaging 1st wasn’t locked out, but had resistance and then engaged. This is probably due to the single mass of the ACT clutch versus oem dual mass auto adjusting.. I also have not experienced the slow creep forward either..

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[ski-line900]

I've been told by McLeod and South Bend that they don't recommend any grease on the splines.

My Jeep shifted perfectly with the OEM, and I can't accept the issues present with the "upgraded" clutch. We shouldn't be locked out of any gears, have to partially shift into 2nd, have a delay when shifting gears, and putting extra stress on the synchros to shift into gear.

It's unfortunate that we are accepting good enough.

 

[notthenewguy]

I've been told my McLeod and South Bend that they don't recommend any grease on the splines.

My Jeep shifted perfectly with the OEM, and I can't accept the issues present with the "upgraded" clutch. We shouldn't be locked out of any gears, have to partially shift into 2nd, have a delay when shifting gears, and putting extra stress on the synchros to shift into gear.

It's unfortunate that we are accepting good enough.

yeah I just bled my cutch hydraulics and while it feels a bit better, still not as good as stock. I hate to say it but I might have to get my stock clutch reinstalled until I can save up for a unit from SBC. Their units are all OEM dual disc style but with supposedly stronger parts. It’s pretty ridiculous how bad the jeep shifts now after this clutch “upgrade”. When I initially had the clutch installed, I could not get into any gear the jeep would just creep forward until it could finally get into gear. It’s better now but still really rough shifting.

 

[ski-line900]

yeah I just bled my cutch hydraulics and while it feels a bit better, still not as good as stock. I hate to say it but I might have to get my stock clutch reinstalled until I can save up for a unit from SBC. Their units are all OEM dual disc style but with supposedly stronger parts. It’s pretty ridiculous how bad the jeep shifts now after this clutch “upgrade”. When I initially had the clutch installed, I could not get into any gear the jeep would just creep forward until it could finally get into gear. It’s better now but still really rough shifting.

Yeah I'm hopeful that the SBC I have on order will solve it for me. We'll see.

 

[notthenewguy]

Yeah I'm hopeful that the SBC I have on order will solve it for me. We'll see.

which one did you buy? I’m looking into their clutches but they have quite a few options. They have 3-4 that basically just look like OEM replacements and then they have two with red pressure plate covers that say they’re the “fix” for the recall. Unsure which to go with.

 

[ski-line900]

I went with their:
https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/SDD722-ORG-13325/

I stupidly threw out my OEM flywheel so I would have to buy a new one to go with the upgraded OEM kits.

 

[Steve104]

I went with their:
https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/SDD722-ORG-13325/

I stupidly threw out my OEM flywheel so I would have to buy a new one to go with the upgraded OEM kits.

But isn't the OEM dual mass flywheel part of the reason to opt for an aftermarket set-up?

 

[ski-line900]

But isn't the OEM dual mass flywheel part of the reason to opt for an aftermarket set-up?

I guess? I don't really know the pro/cons of it. Regardless the kit I'm going with isn't dual mass.

 

[SadRobot]

I figure between all of us we should come up with something, lol

Or we all go insane together. Lmao

I haven't left my house in 18 days so I think I'm already a bit insane at this point.

 

[SadRobot]

I observed the leaky residue of the slave cylinder and now I have around 300 miles since replacement and no shifting lockouts, but have had instances where engaging 1st wasn’t locked out, but had resistance and then engaged.

Is this a new development since driving the 300 miles?

 

[Gator Overland]

Is this a new development since driving the 300 miles?

No, this is not a new development.. this is something that I experienced prior but a lot more often within 300miles of driving.

 

[WJ43]

An update on my repair. I took the Jeep to a transmission shop in San Jose. I gave them a complete CF master slave kit, and hydraulic line. After troubleshooting they replaced the master and the hydraulic lines, but not the slave.

The clutch pedal engagement is as good as or better than I remember from stock. Instead of grabbing just off the floor, you get a bit of pedal travel (maybe 2 to 3 inches) before the clutch engages and the stroke seems to be consistent pressure all the way to the top of the travel. It is heavy, but I would gladly trade being able to shift for a heavy clutch. The tech said that the pedal would get less heavy as the master breaks in and that the master was bad but I don't know the details on what was wrong with it. I still have the slave from the kit so if the weight doesn't get better then I'll put the slave in as well.

We're taking the Jeep on a nice long drive today, and I'll update if there's any changes.

Edit - I forgot to add that I no longer need to stomp on the clutch pedal to get the thing to start.

 

[BHank0688]

Thanks for clarifying… This 100% is something I experienced with the OEM clutch and maybe slightly more exaggerated and/or the occurrences after the ACT… I typically downshift my slow down negotiations according to my speed in the case that I might need to start accelerating so im in The appropriate gear…( I also think I’m Mario Andretti).. like you said I never have to fully engage second, I more or less just bump towards 2nd gear direction and going into first usually isn’t a problem, so that particular maneuver has become a habit. I do periodically start off in second which is where I started to notice not engaging as well as in first… I observed the leaky residue of the slave cylinder and now I have around 300 miles since replacement and no shifting lockouts, but have had instances where engaging 1st wasn’t locked out, but had resistance and then engaged. This is probably due to the single mass of the ACT clutch versus oem dual mass auto adjusting.. I also have not experienced the slow creep forward either..

Before or even after you replaced your slave and bled the system did you ever have a creaking sound when pressing or releasing the clutch pedal? Mine will do this after it warms up a few miles down the road. Noise present if Jeep is running and when off. Goes away after it cools down (usually over night). Hopefully my video uploads correct.

 

[Steve104]

An update on my repair. I took the Jeep to a transmission shop in San Jose. I gave them a complete CF master slave kit, and hydraulic line. After troubleshooting they replaced the master and the hydraulic lines, but not the slave.

The clutch pedal engagement is as good as or better than I remember from stock. Instead of grabbing just off the floor, you get a bit of pedal travel (maybe 2 to 3 inches) before the clutch engages and the stroke seems to be consistent pressure all the way to the top of the travel. It is heavy, but I would gladly trade being able to shift for a heavy clutch. The tech said that the pedal would get less heavy as the master breaks in and that the master was bad but I don't know the details on what was wrong with it. I still have the slave from the kit so if the weight doesn't get better then I'll put the slave in as well.

We're taking the Jeep on a nice long drive today, and I'll update if there's any changes.

Edit - I forgot to add that I no longer need to stomp on the clutch pedal to get the thing to start.

Was the slave that came with your kit the type that mounts inside the bell housing directly behind the throwout bearing?

 

[Gator Overland]

@BHank0688 the first clip was the sound of my pedal operation after installation of the slave cylinder and bleeding at the slave cylinder in position on the trans with no bubbles visible, but prior to pulling vacuum from the fluid reservoir. The function was firm but there was an audible squeak/whoosh that wasn’t present before.
The second clip is after letting placing 15” of vacuum on the reservoir for 8ish hours. Operation was slightly firmer and sound was minimal.. if anything, while my door is open, all I hear now is the clutch fork moving in the Trans.

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