The residual is 30278Capitalization cost is like purchase price. Residual value is expected value at end of lease. If you’ve got the credit/finances to be nimble, residual value can be “ignored”. Subtract the 2, divide by months to get an idea of how much your payment is principal payment vs “finance charges” (money factor can help compare the number)
If you can stomach the finance charges and purchase price/cap cost its probably alright. If you can’t, it probably isn’t. The residual value is irrelevant if you have the money/credit to buy out at then end. If it is too high, just let it go post-lease. If it is under what the jeep is worth, trade it in at the end and use the equity as downpayment on another lease or a purchase. Or just keep it knowing you’re “right-side-up” on a loan.
TLDR: post your residual on the lease offer to get more feedback.
You are missing a few important numbers here to evaluate your deal. If you can post these, I'd be happy to help.My wife wants to lease a willys unlimted. The sticker is 44270.00 43198 with affiliates reward discount. $2400 down. 395 a month for 48 months. Is this a fair deal. Seems a little high. I havent leased in a few years.
This technique can compare between lease and buy, but doesn’t make sense in accounting. The bank maintains ownership of the asset, so they are not “financing” the car. There is no interest on the residual value because you’re not borrowing money to pay the residual, only the depreciation. This is why they require broadened collision insurance, to protect their asset.One thing many people overlooked (or don't realize) in leases is that you pay interest on the total vehicle. The 30K residual is being charged interest for the entire lease duration. This is in addition to the interest paid on the difference between the capitalized cost and residual. CCAP interest rate for 48 month was right around 4%.
The Money factor for a lease interest rate/2400. Why is it 2400? 100 of it is turning % into a decimal. So that leave 24. There is 12 months in year to turn into monthly rate, the remaining 2 is used for averaging.This technique can compare between lease and buy, but doesn’t make sense in accounting. The bank maintains ownership of the asset, so they are not “financing” the car. There is no interest on the residual value because you’re not borrowing money to pay the residual, only the depreciation.
In this deal, the $900 net trade and 1500 downpayment are almost paying the fees of the lease. It is short about $35. I would guess the reason why the Net cap cost does seem to add up, is that it includes sales tax on the taxable fees for your state.Heres what they gave her
![]()
I did a bad job finishing my thought. For comparison to a purchase, this is right. But if you’re comparing leases, it can be more productive to see how much of your payments are depreciation, and how much are finance charges. This is because the cap cost and residual can get moved around a lot. If you’re paying the same amount of depreciation, the finance fees can still be drastically different between 2 offers, resulting in very different payments. Something with a lower money factor can still cost you more over the course of the lease.The Money factor for a lease interest rate/2400. Why is it 2400? 100 of it is turning % into a decimal. So that leave 24. There is 12 months in year to turn into monthly rate, the remaining 2 is used for averaging.
To get the lease finance fee (Net capitalized cost + residual) x money factor. In this case it is (43233 + 30278) * MF. It may seem to odd to add those number, but is done this way because the averaging is built into the money factor. Effectively they are averaging the purchase price (after downpayment and fee) and the residual to come up average price over the lease. In this case (43233+30278) / 2 = 36,755.50 and this multiplied by the interest rate and divide by 12 figure out the monthly lease finance charge.
It is correct their money is tied up, however, the residual value is set to anticipate making a profit when selling your turn-in. So that is a hidden return for the leasing bank, and as a consumer you should not think of a lease like a loan against the whole vehicle. Focus on the depreciation, since that represents your value that gets used over the life of the lease term. Then, see if the extra costs (finance charges) make that worth it. If it is hard to stomach, consider buying with a plan to trade in a few years using the equity. You’re more likely to come out ahead, but you do take on some new risks (and a larger payment) You can’t just walk away at lease end if it is worth less than you anticipated on purchase day.This website reiterates what I said above about you are paying interest on the entire vehicle's price.
https://www.leaseguide.com/lease08/
"Also be aware that you’re paying finance charges on both the depreciation and residual (the total of which is the negotiated selling price of the car). Remember, you’re tying up the leasing company’s money while you’re driving their car. They used their money to buy the car that you will drive while you lease. Technically, you’re paying finance charges on half of the depreciation (the average value) and all of the residual value for the term of the lease."
I am not normally someone who leases, but I did this time because I am starting a new business this month with my fiance. I am providing the capital and she is going to run the businesses day to day operation, so I suspect I will be supplementing her income for about year as we grow the business. Instead of putting $20k down and having $600 monthly payment. I put $5k down & have a $350 lease and I kept $15k aside. I do plan on buying out the lease. I could have gotten a $330 month lease through Ally, which had a higher MF but a higher residual as well. The overall cost of the lease plus the residual buyout was going to be $5k more than the lease I chose with the lower MF. I am sure most customers don't choose the higher lease payment.But if you’re comparing leases, it can be more productive to see how much of your payments are depreciation, and how much are finance charges. This is because the cap cost and residual can get moved around a lot. If you’re paying the same amount of depreciation, the finance fees can still be drastically different between 2 offers, resulting in very different payments. Something with a lower money factor can still cost you more over the course of the lease.
This makes a lot of sense, and a good choice between the 2 options. I still don’t like the rate, but admittedly I don’t know what a good deal is on a wrangler lease.I am not normally someone who leases, but I did this time because I am starting a new business this month with my fiance. I am providing the capital and she is going to run the businesses day to day operation, so I suspect I will be supplementing her income for about year as we grow the business. Instead of putting $20k down and having $600 monthly payment. I put $5k down & have a $350 lease and I kept $15k aside. I do plan on buying out the lease. I could have gotten a $330 month lease through Ally, which had a higher MF but a higher residual as well. The overall cost of the lease plus the residual buyout was going to be $5k more than the lease I chose with the lower MF. I am sure most customers don't choose the higher lease payment.