Joker XR

[Jarg1]

Why Joker? This name would make more sense with a purple Jeep, but it comes from the “J” for Jeep call sign my daughter picked when we were off-roading with friends and the name stuck. So Joker it is.

Day One

Mods so far

Front Bumper. I ordered with the base bumpers because I knew I was going to replace them anyway. Since I wanted to mount a winch, I was concerned about weight so limited my search to aluminum bumpers. My preferences included being able to mount the winch inside the bumper, and no bull bar/stinger/winch hoop as I didn’t see much utility, plus more front weight. Eventually I chose the MP Concepts clone of the OEM steel bumper. It was a straightforward install and I like that I can still use OEM parts with it. For example, rather than reusing the fog light harness from the plastic pumper I installed the Mopar steel bumper wiring 68336460AD. The main limitation with this that I know of is the use of tow hooks. WARN and Maximus-3 make tow loop kits for the OEM bumper but they mount below the bumper thus reducing approach. If I stick with this bumper long-term I may try something like the HK Offroad front shackle tab kit.

WARN 103253 VR EVO 10-S. It seems to be solid and is relatively light with the synthetic rope. I contemplated a XEON but was concerned about the fit.

Rusty’s winch mount. The MP Concepts bumper includes a winch plate but unfortunately it is too deep to use with the sway disconnect motor. I considered trimming the plate or seeing if rotating the motor would clear the plate, but instead went with Rusty’s. I like that it seems to be engineered to provide the minimal necessary strength and therefore saves a few pounds up front. Plus because of the way it mounts it doesn’t push the bumper forward. I worry that it may not be strong enough though based on a reported failure by another forum member.

WARN 102642 winch cover. Fits well. I like the look of the exposed winch better but figure it best to protect against sun and moisture. Note it should be installed before you put the bumper back on since the drawstrings in the middle would be almost impossible to route afterwards. Thankfully I figured this out beforehand.

WARN 62132 power interrupt kit. Since I have the auxiliary switches included with the tow package, it made sense to me to wire the winch to one of the switches to be able to power off when not in use. Note the kit includes a lot of stuff I didn’t use other than the solenoid and the battery lead. I built my own wiring and bracket.

Badge Glow Simple aux. I like that wiring is better organized. But I don’t yet have any other accessories that need to connect to the auxiliary switches and I worry about the exposed connections.

Factor 55 winch lock. It seems to me it would be very difficult to get to the mounting screws but just in case…

I originally planned to use a hook with the winch so bought the WARN 102222 hook stay and fairlead backing plate. It seemed flimsy plus it included slots for a front license plate which I didn’t plan to use, so I replaced it with a Maximus-3 winch hook anchor. Definitely beefier, but then I decided I didn’t like the looks much, plus it protruded further out and added weight to the front. I replaced it with the Mopar 82215528AB winch fairlead adapter plate.

WARN fairlead. This is included with the winch and is a pretty nice piece so even though there are some other great looking aftermarket options I’m sticking with it for now.

Maximus-3 filler trim plates for ZEON & EVO. Cleans up the top of the bumper. Easy install but required tapping the original plastic cover attachment holes. Would be even better in aluminum. Note Maximus-3 also makes another “standard” kit which they say is also compatible with EVOs but this version worked fine.

Factor 55 Flatlink E. After ditching the hook I first installed a Factor 55 Prolink and while I like the concept better it sticks out a bit more. Thus the Flatlink.

Rear bumper. There is an aluminum clone of the OEM steel rear bumper but I have read that the OEM is prone to damaging the body when hit hard, and I don’t want that. Really the main disadvantage I see with the factory plastic is the lack of a good tow point. Plus losing cred with the hardcore crowd. I’ll stick with it for now.

Rhino USA shackle hitch receiver. See rear bumper above. This is really solid, but it will only be attached if needed.

Hooke hitch skid plate. Having ordered the tow package it occurred to me that the hitch is the low point in the back. I like that this protects the hitch area including the wiring. But it weights ~17lbs and is even lower. I added a rattle silencer kit after realizing the bolt on hitch stabilizer wasn’t going to let me mount the plate all the way in. I would like a hitch receiver skid that sits flush with the bottom of the receiver to avoid a lower contact point but haven’t found anything yet.

Rough Country front and rear differential skids. These weren’t my first choice. Ranchos looked to be higher quality but apparently their front skid isn’t a good fit with the latest Dana 44s on Wranglers. I emailed them to see if they were planning to fix that but never received a reply. Oh well, it saved me having to paint them black.

Rusty’s rear LCA frame side mount skid. As far as I know this is the only bolt-on solution. I prefer bolt-on parts in case I do severe damage or find something I like better. Of course, the fasteners are a potential weak point. Note one of the passenger side fasteners has clearance issues on the inside and I had to move the inside washer to the outside to get a solid fit. Also, these come unpainted, so I sprayed on some black chassis paint. I wish there was an equivalent for the front since I’ve already managed to ding one of them.

Rock Hard 4X4 bolt-on front and rear LCA skids. Solid and only a little bit of a pain for one person to install. I learned how to align the LCAs to the mounts both by using a jack on the frame or by bumping the tire against a chock.

Rock Hard FAD skid plate. Not really super necessary since there is already a plate there but what the heck.

Longer control arms. I have adjusted to Wrangler vague steering and tracking but wouldn’t mind improving it. Towards that end I replaced the factory arms with the slightly longer 68322798AA part. Some users report great improvement after this swap, but for me the difference was subtle. On the other hand, it was inexpensive and easy, even with having to remove the LCA skids to install.

ASFIR aluminum underbody protection kit. Partial failure/success. I realized after installing the mounting brackets for the engine and transmission skid that it would sit against the front differential skid. So that isn’t going to work. I have emailed ASFIR to see if they can put something together that will work for my application. I’d really like to have a plate there and I prefer aluminum, particularly for the large skids. Better results with the transfer case skid which went right on. Note it sits below the existing skid so is kind of redundant. I'm debating whether to paint this black.

Plus a bunch of minor mods

Mopar all weather mats. I order these with the Jeep, but they were dropped at the factory. I like the look but wish the back was a single piece since the seam of the 2 sections doesn’t like to stay connected.

Mopar cargo mats. 82215185AC. I like that they cover the entire cargo area with the seats down and they also match the style of Mopar floor mats.

Mopar trail rail management system. MTRMS. I really got these to replace the carpeted area on each side of the cargo mats. Pretty pricy for that purpose but I didn’t find any alternative unless I used another mat. I think it would be nice if there was a way to replace all the carpeting in the rear but this gets me most of the way there.

Voodonala door buckle covers. Dress up the door latches a bit. Seem well made.

Mopar lug locks. Another XR owner had their spare stolen, so this became a priority. Hopefully can discourage the bad guys.

Ryonair 13” antenna. I don’t want exterior chrome and I don’t listen to FM very often so unconcerned about reception.

Hothead headliner kit. I considered ordering the Jeep with the OEM headliners but went this route based on forum reviews. I chose black since most of the interior is already black. Installation was easy. The passenger side rear panel didn’t want to stay on, so I purchased what I think is the same 3M tape (4941 VHB) that it came with and replaced the original. That didn’t work any better – I guess some small discrepancy in the panel was reducing contact between the top and the tape. There is enough space to place 2 strips of tape per section, and that did the trick.

OEM cargo tub liner. Limited utility but it makes cleaning the tub easier and some owners report it can be used as a covert cooler.

Threedom key lock caps. More chrome hidden. Note I also ordered the tailgate lock cap not realizing there is nowhere to put it on this build.

Threedom Model S+ fob. First fail. I couldn’t get all the buttons to work. Support tried to help but nothing fixed it and I gave up. I suspect there is too much flex in the case. I’ve learned to live with the monster OEM fob.

CDEFG tempered glass touch screen protector. Easy install with no impact on touch screen function. Does have a bit more glare.

¼ inch rubber cord. After the first off road trip there were a bunch of small rocks wedged in between the fenders and body. This will prevent a repeat.

JKCOVER central console organizer. Mainly like having a semi hidden space below to stash my gold bullion.

Bartact roll bar mount and Amerex B417T fire extinguisher. I’ve read the extinguisher is required for some events and of course it is always a good idea to have one in your vehicle. I considered just using an Element E50 – I have it in my other cars – but somehow it didn’t seem right for this.

Which gets me to Day 50.

Next projects.

I have a pair of Rock Hard 4x4 patriot tube sliders on order. Hopefully they can better keep rocks away from the body. I’m not looking forward to removing the factory sliders though.

I definitely want to relocate the stabilizer. It seems like the weakest link left. I’ve ordered the Synergy kit to try. Once there is a better consensus on the Exact Center stabilizer I’ll probably grab one.

Oracle Lighting tail lights. I don’t have either of the safety packages – pretty much the only options I omitted – but will wait for it to be plug and play before purchasing. I don’t love the monster XR tail lights.

Sponsored

 

[Marman]

Great looking Jeep, partial to the color....

Also, I used this on my JK spare tire, haven't used it on the JL yet though.
Bolt Lock

 

[Jarg1]

The Rock Hard 4X4 Patriot Sliders with angled up tubes (RH-90104) arrived unexpectedly this afternoon. I was able to get them installed in a couple of hours. Removing the factory sliders was easier than I anticipated, but the installation of the replacements was not. With a breaker bar and multiple applications of heat I was able to remove the body to frame bolts without stripping or snapping anything, though I did manage to set the rubber insulator on one of the front mounts on fire! I will be ordering replacements for all the frame mount hardware. Anyway, the new sliders should improve protection against rocks, and also provided a small step for entry without compromising clearance. The only thing I would change is the glossy finish. I think it would look better if it matched the fenders. I'll probably repaint them in a semi-gloss when I have time.

 

[Jarg1]

I was able to get a few things done this weekend on the Jeep, starting with....

I removed and repainted the Rock Hard sliders using Rust-oleum truck bed coating. It took a full can per side and I think it turned out okay for a spray can paint job. I definitely prefer the flatter finish over the original gloss. Time will tell how well it holds up to abuse. I see Rust-oleum also sells "Profession grade" version of the paint if I need to do over.

While I had the those off I replaced the parts I melted when I was removing the body to frame mounts.

I received my Exact Center stabilizer earlier this week. I ordered the 140 lb. version, my thinking being that the 35" tires are heavy enough to benefit from the higher pressure. I do wonder if the higher pressure unit will hold up as well as the lower pressure versions. These are new so I feel like I'm basically a tester for the product.

This purchase was not motivated by a need to improve steering - I've already made my peace with how the Jeep drives - but I have been planning on relocating the stabilizer and had already purchases the Synergy relocation kit (8807-03). I chose Synergy because I didn't want to drill into the tie rod mount, and the tie rod clamp looks much more damage resistant than the various U-bolt solutions. Since the kit requires a 1/2" mounting sleeve on the stabilizer, using the Exact Center saved me from having to drill out the factory unit. Installation was fairly simple. Removing the factory brackets was a bit tricky on the inside mount because the 2 top fasteners are in an awkward position. Not enough room to get a socket on and not much space to get torque on a wrench. I used a bit of heat to loosen them up. Also the Exact Center sleeves are small so I am using a stack of washers to fill out the extra space until I can find a spacer that is the right size. I still need to tie wrap the bellow. I plan to replace the button head bolt as others have recommended.

I haven't had much driving time with the new stabilizer but so far I haven't noticed an improvement in straight line tracking. What I have noticed is that the return to center is much more pronounced. If anything it may be too much. I'm still adjusting to the new feel so will reserve final judgement on Exact Center until I have more experience with it.

Finally, I installed a Garmin Dash Cam Mini 2. I chose this model for the minimal size. I don't like anything obscuring my forward field of vision. And I didn't perceive any need for the features larger cameras offer. The one feature I might regret not having is a rear view. I hard wired the dash cam to the Aux wiring in the footwell. Installation was easier than expected. I removed the footwell panel, one panel on the dash side, and I loosened the grab handle panel. This allowed me to run the wiring down to the footwell area. I used a Garmin Parking Mode Cable kit. I also added a 512GB microSD card to maximize the amount of stored data. It works fine so far.

 

[Exact Center]

Scott
When ready, add zip ties to boot 4"-9.5"-4" spacing will allow full compression and extension.
I am johnd, I invented the Exact Center. Many users that do their first test drive use their experience with other stabilizers to evaluate the EC unit. EC does replace their previous or is mounted in place of their old unit, but it is not a stabilizer as you know them. Conventional two-way shock type or gas stabilizers resist movement, they make tie-rod travel harder from any point you are at there action is the same resist movement. They do not hold any pressure, they do not push with any control. EC is different with it properly tuned and centered it will have a power hold at the center an increased push back on any turn away from the center and a power return to the center. It will feel different than what you have used in the past because it is different, very different. It is much smarter it is always there to fight anything that tries to change your direction from straight ahead. Curbs, bumps, ridges, even blowouts EC will keep you on course and when you use the wheel to turn the power steering will make the EC pressure invisible. EC will get rid of a lazy center feel, it gives a center you can feel. After a slow turn, there will be a real return to center, you need just loosen your grip and there will be a spin back. The side winds that commonly push a Jeep around will be there, but you will not feel the need to correct the steering, it will be like the wind went away. Just about anything that moves your Jeep now will get help from EC, which includes, control in mud, silt, sand, snow, ice, rain, and standing water EC will fight all efforts to upset your control. Many users report high-speed interstate traveling with very little input required to stay on track and in your lane. The drives like a Jeep can be a good thing. We tell new users to give themselves days not hours and many miles to find the true difference EC can make. I have more miles with EC than just about anyone and daily I find I am still learning about the EC. It is a good feeling this control gives. Take time to learn EC and every day you will like it more.

 

[Jarg1]

Scott
When ready, add zip ties to boot 4"-9.5"-4" spacing will allow full compression and extension.
I am johnd, I invented the Exact Center. Many users that do their first test drive use their experience with other stabilizers to evaluate the EC unit. EC does replace their previous or is mounted in place of their old unit, but it is not a stabilizer as you know them. Conventional two-way shock type or gas stabilizers resist movement, they make tie-rod travel harder from any point you are at there action is the same resist movement. They do not hold any pressure, they do not push with any control. EC is different with it properly tuned and centered it will have a power hold at the center an increased push back on any turn away from the center and a power return to the center. It will feel different than what you have used in the past because it is different, very different. It is much smarter it is always there to fight anything that tries to change your direction from straight ahead. Curbs, bumps, ridges, even blowouts EC will keep you on course and when you use the wheel to turn the power steering will make the EC pressure invisible. EC will get rid of a lazy center feel, it gives a center you can feel. After a slow turn, there will be a real return to center, you need just loosen your grip and there will be a spin back. The side winds that commonly push a Jeep around will be there, but you will not feel the need to correct the steering, it will be like the wind went away. Just about anything that moves your Jeep now will get help from EC, which includes, control in mud, silt, sand, snow, ice, rain, and standing water EC will fight all efforts to upset your control. Many users report high-speed interstate traveling with very little input required to stay on track and in your lane. The drives like a Jeep can be a good thing. We tell new users to give themselves days not hours and many miles to find the true difference EC can make. I have more miles with EC than just about anyone and daily I find I am still learning about the EC. It is a good feeling this control gives. Take time to learn EC and every day you will like it more.

Hi John, I appreciate your keeping an eye on this, and I promise to post a fair update on my impressions after driving for a while. I'm in no hurry to reach conclusions.

Although I'm guessing my Jeep is no worse than the average Wrangler in high speed directional stability, installing the Exact Center was the latest of a few things I have done to try to improve it. First I lowered the tire pressure significantly from what it was delivered with, and then below spec (44 psi down to 32 psi) and that was a noticeable improvement. Then I increased caster using longer LCAs. That also improved it a bit. And now the Exact Center stabilizer. It may also have improved things but so far it isn't dramatically better. I suspect that the steering may be as good as it's going to get, the remaining issue being the slight dead spot. I think I am having to adjust my driving since it feels a bit trickier to make small adjustments with the stronger centering. That said, it seemed to feel better today than it did yesterday. I do like the stronger centering out of corners, and it works well with the Synergy relocation kit. I'm taking it off-roading in a couple of weeks, so will see how it feels over obstacles and uneven terrain.

 

[Exact Center]

Hi John, I appreciate your keeping an eye on this, and I promise to post a fair update on my impressions after driving for a while. I'm in no hurry to reach conclusions.

Although I'm guessing my Jeep is no worse than the average Wrangler in high speed directional stability, installing the Exact Center was the latest of a few things I have done to try to improve it. First I lowered the tire pressure significantly from what it was delivered with, and then below spec (44 psi down to 32 psi) and that was a noticeable improvement. Then I increased caster using longer LCAs. That also improved it a bit. And now the Exact Center stabilizer. It may also have improved things but so far it isn't dramatically better. I suspect that the steering may be as good as it's going to get, the remaining issue being the slight dead spot. I think I am having to adjust my driving since it feels a bit trickier to make small adjustments with the stronger centering. That said, it seemed to feel better today than it did yesterday. I do like the stronger centering out of corners, and it works well with the Synergy relocation kit. I'm taking it off-roading in a couple of weeks, so will see how it feels over obstacles and uneven terrain.

My tires 2021 JLUR 392 XR 35"4" factory lift are 40 psi. My jeep drives as good as any High-End SUV or maybe even a sports SUV. It has zero bad habits, there is nothing one could find fault with so I guess I am spoiled. Before EC mine was not bad, but it was not great, the center was vague wind and things did cause changes, now it does not. On my 2018 JLR 2 dr it was not bad either, but it did drive on expressway not so good and wind did kick it around, and if you tried it would death wobble. An 82 lb EC made it a very good driver without DW. It could be the biggest difference between mine and your on-road manors is I have no steering mods on the 2018 or 2021. My mods are winches and RV stuff things that do not change factory geometry. Now Roky that has everything changed has the same 130 EC I do and he says he will weld the EC jamb nuts so it can never be changed. He says drives perfect. So I guess Roky is very good and maybe I am very lucky. Question why do you think you need 32 lbs in your tires? Understand I know nothing, I know mine are and have been a 40psi for 5000 miles and I have never had a reason to change, why change? What does a pressure change do on the street? Remember I do know nothing. I had an oil change today and they wanted to add pressure I said tires were perfect leave them alone. Just trying to learn a bit, at my age I will forget in a day or two anyway.

 

[Jarg1]

My tires 2021 JLUR 392 XR 35"4" factory lift are 40 psi. My jeep drives as good as any High-End SUV or maybe even a sports SUV. It has zero bad habits, there is nothing one could find fault with so I guess I am spoiled. Before EC mine was not bad, but it was not great, the center was vague wind and things did cause changes, now it does not. On my 2018 JLR 2 dr it was not bad either, but it did drive on expressway not so good and wind did kick it around, and if you tried it would death wobble. An 82 lb EC made it a very good driver without DW. It could be the biggest difference between mine and your on-road manors is I have no steering mods on the 2018 or 2021. My mods are winches and RV stuff things that do not change factory geometry. Now Roky that has everything changed has the same 130 EC I do and he says he will weld the EC jamb nuts so it can never be changed. He says drives perfect. So I guess Roky is very good and maybe I am very lucky. Question why do you think you need 32 lbs in your tires? Understand I know nothing, I know mine are and have been a 40psi for 5000 miles and I have never had a reason to change, why change? What does a pressure change do on the street? Remember I do know nothing. I had an oil change today and they wanted to add pressure I said tires were perfect leave them alone. Just trying to learn a bit, at my age I will forget in a day or two anyway.

I can only speculate as to why lowering the pressure helped. Perhaps the softer ride is reducing bump steer? Maybe the bigger contact area is changing the driving dynamic? I can tell you that my Jeep is much less twitchy at the lower pressure.

 

[Exact Center]

I can only speculate as to why lowering the pressure helped. Perhaps the softer ride is reducing bump steer? Maybe the bigger contact area is changing the driving dynamic? I can tell you that my Jeep is much less twitchy at the lower pressure.

OK do understand my off-road is done in a CanAm Defender 1000, my jeep was a dingy for RV and this 392 is a hot rod and a dingy for RV. My Grandson Tony and my Son are serious jeep offroaders and my granddaughter was a bit of an off-roader, if I give her another jeep she will be again.

 

[Jarg1]

I've added a couple of things over the last few days. First...

Bestop Sunrider. It gets mentioned frequently as a candidate for best mod by forum members. I would actually prefer to swap to the soft top for the warmer part of the year, but I don't currently have a great place to store the hard top. Nor do I want to remove and stow the freedom panels with any frequency. First I gave it a good coating of 303 Fabric Guard. Installation was simple enough. I debadged them - sorry Bestop but I prefer not to advertise without compensation if I can avoid it. I added a pair of the Beaver Bros bolt caps to finish it off. It is already seeing frequent use. Not surprisingly it is a bit louder inside now, even when shut, and the interior get warmer and takes a lot longer to cool down. Another minor nitpick is that I don't think it looks as good as the freedom panels - it could be improved if the color better matched the rest of the top. Still, I think it is a great addition.

I swapped out the Exact Center for a Fox 2.0 stabilizer (98524173). It was a quick job, though a bit tricky getting the axle side bolt seated while the stabilizer was trying to decompress. I don't like that the Synergy wheel side relocation mount stud is not long enough to extend through the entire sleeve of the stabilizer. I used some Permatex threadlocker so hopefully the end bolt will stay put. The Fox stabilizer feels pretty similar to the OEM part. But I didn't have to drill it out to fit the relocation kit, and it looks much better IMO. Presumably the quality is better also.

I may try to swap the Exact Center stabilizer for a lower psi version to see if it works better for my purposes. But what I have found is that while the strong return to center was great, I struggled more to make the fine adjustments to steering that were still required to drive smoothly. Ultimately, for me, the benefits were outweighed by that distraction.

Finally, I attempted to repair the front passenger side upper LCA mount that I dinged on an obstacle. It wasn't too bad - the back lip was bent outwards a bit. I used a torch to soften it up, then clamped on a very big adjustable wrench to bend it back. Of course, it is impossible to get it back to the original shape, but it is much better now. I'll clean it and use spray paint to protect against rust soon. Personally, I think the LCA mounts are a poor design, particularly for a vehicle that is advertised for the Rubicon!

 

[PMGP1941]

This one is well thoughtout and a good looking Jeep!

 

[Jarg1]

I received and installed a JCR Offroad bumper skid plate, replacing the MP Concepts aluminum OEM style skid that I was using. I have to admit this was primarily about looks, one of the few mods I've made for that purpose. But it does have a better profile for approaches. Also, after off-roading this past weekend and getting hung on the ASFIR transfer case aluminum skid, I've decided to stick with steel skids going forward. Aluminum is just too soft for the rocks.

 

[navyflyer]

Very nice mods! Where‘d you get the aluminum OEM bumper?

 

[Cypher]

I've added a couple of things over the last few days. First...

Bestop Sunrider. It gets mentioned frequently as a candidate for best mod by forum members. I would actually prefer to swap to the soft top for the warmer part of the year, but I don't currently have a great place to store the hard top. Nor do I want to remove and stow the freedom panels with any frequency. First I gave it a good coating of 303 Fabric Guard. Installation was simple enough. I debadged them - sorry Bestop but I prefer not to advertise without compensation if I can avoid it. I added a pair of the Beaver Bros bolt caps to finish it off. It is already seeing frequent use. Not surprising it is a bit louder inside now, even when shut, and the interior get warmer and takes a lot longer to cool down. Another minor nitpick is that I don't think it looks as good as the freedom panels - it could be improved if the color better matched the rest of the top. Still, I think it is a great addition.

I swapped out the Exact Center for a Fox 2.0 stabilizer (98524173). It was a quick job, though a bit tricky getting the axle side bolt seated while the stabilizer was trying to decompress. I don't like that the Synergy wheel side relocation mount stud is not long enough to extend through the entire sleeve of the stabilizer. I used some Permatex threadlocker so hopefully the end bolt will stay put. The Fox stabilizer feels pretty similar to the OEM part. But I didn't have to drill it out to fit the relocation kit, and it looks much better IMO. Presumably the quality is better also.

I may try to swap the Exact Center stabilizer for a lower psi version to see if it works better for my purposes. But what I have found is that while the strong return to center was great, I struggled more to make the fine adjustments to steering that were still required to drive smoothly. Ultimately, for me, the benefits were outweighed by that distraction.

Finally, I attempted to repair the front passenger side upper LCA mount that I dinged on an obstacle. It wasn't too bad - the back lip was bent outwards a bit. I used a torch to soften it up, then clamped on a very big adjustable wrench to bend it back. Of course, it is impossible to get it back to the original shape, but it is much better now. I'll clean it and use spray paint to protect against rust soon. Personally, I think the LCA mounts are a poor design, particularly for a vehicle that is advertised for the Rubicon!

how did you debadge the sunrider?

 

[Jarg1]

how did you debadge the sunrider?

The Bestop badge is attached with double-sided tape. I carefully worked a razor blade around the edges until I could peel off the badges and used some goo gone to clean up the tape residue.

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