JL Cargo Area Lighting Upgrade

[Terrymo]

Anyone have any experience or guidance on tapping into the dome light to add a led strip to the cargo area? Not experienced in wiring this up and looking for some guidance!

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[72Blazer]

Anyone have any experience or guidance on tapping into the dome light to add a led strip to the cargo area? Not experienced in wiring this up and looking for some guidance!

Everything is literally done for you in this thread if you go back and read. I’ve even posted pictures from my most recent install. And I’m not a wiring guru… it this is pretty simple install.

 

[Cycle11111]

Ok I just completed the Oracle cargo light install and hard wiring into the rear cargo area lighter/12V plug. Most/all items I mention are covered in the various posts to this thread but I thought I would add my thoughts and observations. First off the Oracle Cargo light is awesome and I only have two complaints - 1) the mounting screws to mount it are too short and are a true pain to get started and one screw literally took an hour to bite so I could screw it in - all I can say is Oracle please fix this and in the meantime be patient and keep trying and you will get it, 2) I wish the switches were latched so they would remember whether they are on or off and then you wouldn’t have to hit the switch you should install plus the cargo light switch. I used a switch - amazon link here - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1MV462?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. I connected to the backside of the lighter plug using this part (ie no taps needed) - https://www.quadratec.com/p/quadratec/12-volt-power-adapter-jeep-wrangler-tj-jk-jl-jt. I connected the wire feed from the light to the 12voLt adapter with this plug - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A6LTK44?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. One item that was not mentioned much is removing the plastic cover around the lighter plug in the cargo area - it is not super hard but takes some patience and muscle to pull it off as the clips holding it in are pretty strong also the one around the seatbelt is tricky. Also as mentioned in the very first post use a real wire fish to feed the wire from the cargo area up through the roof to the gasket plug where the power and window washer hose exits - other options like a coat hanger wire or just the wire don’t work well or at all. Also for wire splice connections I used solder sticks and my heat gun - better than crimped connectors or hand solder connections. End result is worth it but this is not super hard but takes some time to complete given this is likely the first time any of us tapped into this area. Last item is someone mentioned using 12 gauge wire - that is overkill and the wiring that comes with the Oracle light into the lighter plug is only 18 gauge - any wires I added were 14 gauge as that is what I had available, but no need for 12 gauge given the run length and amperage required.

 

[72Blazer]

@Cycle11111

#2 do you mean you have trouble making sure the switch is on/ off? I used a rocker toggle switch. Open is on. Closed is off. Also adds a little protection to the switch when I’m loaded with gear.

 

[Cycle11111]

@Cycle11111

#2 do you mean you have trouble making sure the switch is on/ off? I used a rocker toggle switch. Open is on. Closed is off. Also adds a little protection to the switch when I’m loaded with gear.

No I added a switch and that turns power on and off to the cargo light. My point was if you turned on the switch I added and then turned on the cargo light and then turned off the switch I added the setting of the cargo light is not remembered (latched). So if you turn your switch back on then you have to turn the cargo light back on. It would be very nice if once you turn the cargo light switch on its state would be remembered as you toggle the added switch- nice to have but not a huge issue

 

[hammten]

Recently installed the ORACLE Lighting cargo light in my 2021 JLUR 4xe. Like others have posted, I opted to hardwire my cargo light to the 12V socket instead of using the bulky 12V plug. To hardwire, I used the Quadratec 12V power adapter. Additionally, I was able to route the wiring harness in the stock windshield channel, but it was a very tight fit. For those that are using a waterproof plug to allow the ability to disconnect the cargo light when removing the hardtop, I recommend that you either postpone crimping on the pins for the waterproof plug until after you've routed the wiring harness through the hardtop wiper power cable & wiper hose channel. I suppose you could also opt to temporarily de-pin the plug and route the cables, but you'd want to cover the pins with masking tape or electric tape to minimize any damage to the pins or binding during harness routing.

Later this week, I'll be looking to also connect the cargo light to the dome light via a SPDT (On-Off-On) switch. As a result, I can predominantly have the cargo light turn on and off with the dome lights. However, in the case where I would like the cargo light on when I have the tailgate open for extended periods of time or all doors are closed, I can toggle the SPDT switch to revert to the always-on 12V power source. Additionally, I can have the switch in the off position if I won't want any possible power drain from the cargo light.

On a slightly different note, I'm not sure if it is an isolated incident, but the screws that came with my light were too short to install the cargo light. I went to my local Ace Hardware store to buy two M4 x 16mm and two M4 x 20mm hex socket head screws to install the cargo light. The M4 x 16 screw was slightly longer than the screws provided by ORACLE, but I opted for the M4 x 20 screws for added length to make sure my light was fully secured.

Additionally, you may want to consider getting the corresponding flat washers for the M4 screws, since the diameter of the screws ORACLE provides or the ones you buy at Ace Hardware are only slightly larger than the hole that accommodates the screws. The washers will help secure the housing better than without the washers, and it'll also reduce the overall pressure placed on the housing by the screw head to prevent possible cracking if you are heavy handed when hand-tightening the screws (I don't recommend using a drill or electric screwdriver to install the screws for fear of cracking/breaking the housing). If I remember correctly, the screws were approximately $1.00 each, while the washers were around $0.30.

Lastly, like others have chimed in, the stock wiper housing for the 2021 JLUR 4xe has a rubber lining that contacts the windshield glass. If ORACLE ever decides to make a V2 for the cargo light, it would be nice to see them implement a similar lining design to act as a pressur weather stripping/seal. Additionally, if there were a way to add a grab handle to the housing like this aftermarket grip handle, it would be a helpful feature for shorter Wrangler drivers or those who have lifted their Wrangler via suspension lift kits and/or larger wheels.

 

[danba]

Recently installed the ORACLE Lighting cargo light in my 2021 JLUR 4xe. Like others have posted, I opted to hardwire my cargo light to the 12V socket instead of using the bulky 12V plug. To hardwire, I used the Quadratec 12V power adapter. Additionally, I was able to route the wiring harness in the stock windshield channel, but it was a very tight fit. For those that are using a waterproof plug to allow the ability to disconnect the cargo light when removing the hardtop, I recommend that you either postpone crimping on the pins for the waterproof plug until after you've routed the wiring harness through the hardtop wiper power cable & wiper hose channel. I suppose you could also opt to temporarily de-pin the plug and route the cables, but you'd want to cover the pins with masking tape or electric tape to minimize any damage to the pins or binding during harness routing.

Later this week, I'll be looking to also connect the cargo light to the dome light via a SPDT (On-Off-On) switch. As a result, I can predominantly have the cargo light turn on and off with the dome lights. However, in the case where I would like the cargo light on when I have the tailgate open for extended periods of time or all doors are closed, I can toggle the SPDT switch to revert to the always-on 12V power source. Additionally, I can have the switch in the off position if I won't want any possible power drain from the cargo light.

On a slightly different note, I'm not sure if it is an isolated incident, but the screws that came with my light were too short to install the cargo light. I went to my local Ace Hardware store to buy two M4 x 16mm and two M4 x 20mm hex socket head screws to install the cargo light. The M4 x 16 screw was slightly longer than the screws provided by ORACLE, but I opted for the M4 x 20 screws for added length to make sure my light was fully secured.

Additionally, you may want to consider getting the corresponding flat washers for the M4 screws, since the diameter of the screws ORACLE provides or the ones you buy at Ace Hardware are only slightly larger than the hole that accommodates the screws. The washers will help secure the housing better than without the washers, and it'll also reduce the overall pressure placed on the housing by the screw head to prevent possible cracking if you are heavy handed when hand-tightening the screws (I don't recommend using a drill or electric screwdriver to install the screws for fear of cracking/breaking the housing). If I remember correctly, the screws were approximately $1.00 each, while the washers were around $0.30.

Lastly, like others have chimed in, the stock wiper housing for the 2021 JLUR 4xe has a rubber lining that contacts the windshield glass. If ORACLE ever decides to make a V2 for the cargo light, it would be nice to see them implement a similar lining design to act as a pressur weather stripping/seal. Additionally, if there were a way to add a grab handle to the housing like this aftermarket grip handle, it would be a helpful feature for shorter Wrangler drivers or those who have lifted their Wrangler via suspension lift kits and/or larger wheels.

Why not just tap the cig lighter in the cargo area, like you did, and then use a NO magnetic reed switch attached to the hatch door. This way it will always be on when you open the door.

The only thing is that the internal (side) switches need to be bypassed.

 

[hammten]

Why not just tap the cig lighter in the cargo area, like you did, and then use a NO magnetic reed switch attached to the hatch door. This way it will always be on when you open the door.

The only thing is that the internal (side) switches need to be bypassed.

That’s definitely another option to replicate what I was looking for. I don’t have much familiarity with reed switches, so that would be a reason why I didn’t go down that route.

After using the ORACLE Lighting cargo light for almost a month, I am happy with the SPDT switch setup. When powered via the dome light, the light still needs you to push the physical power buttons on the housing.

It appears that once the dome lights dim to off (and therefore, the power is cut off from the cargo light), the cargo light’s chipset doesn’t remember that the cargo lights were ever on. As a result, you still have to push the physical power buttons on the housing every time you want light.

I’d imagine that the NO magnetic reed switch would have the same effect once the switch was closed. If you decide to implement the NO magnetic reed switch to your setup, I’d love to see how you did it.

 

[danba]

That’s definitely another option to replicate what I was looking for. I don’t have much familiarity with reed switches, so that would be a reason why I didn’t go down that route.

After using the ORACLE Lighting cargo light for almost a month, I am happy with the SPDT switch setup. When powered via the dome light, the light still needs you to push the physical power buttons on the housing.

It appears that once the dome lights dim to off (and therefore, the power is cut off from the cargo light), the cargo light’s chipset doesn’t remember that the cargo lights were ever on. As a result, you still have to push the physical power buttons on the housing every time you want light.

I’d imagine that the NO magnetic reed switch would have the same effect once the switch was closed. If you decide to implement the NO magnetic reed switch to your setup, I’d love to see how you did it.

Magnetic reed switches are what all home security systems use for door/windows open/close sensors. RSE also uses them to lower down their steps when doors are opened. What's cool is that they have no (visible) mechanical parts so are impervious to dust, dirt, etc.

I'll look at what electronics are inside the cargo light box. I don't have the ORACLE one, but an identical looking one (probably made in the same oversees factory) for $29 of Amazon.

I have no need for any of the buttons, soft dim, etc. Just want it to behave like a "normal" trunk light. I'll update once I get to it.

 

[hammten]

Magnetic reed switches are what all home security systems use for door/windows open/close sensors. RSE also uses them to lower down their steps when doors are opened. What's cool is that they have no (visible) mechanical parts so are impervious to dust, dirt, etc.

I'll look at what electronics are inside the cargo light box. I don't have the ORACLE one, but an identical looking one (probably made in the same oversees factory) for $29 of Amazon.

I have no need for any of the buttons, soft dim, etc. Just want it to behave like a "normal" trunk light. I'll update once I get to it.

I forgot that Rock Slide Engineering uses those switches for activating their slider steps. It's definitely a cool setup if it can be implemented for the cargo lights.

As far as the Amazon knock-off, that model looks very similar to what the ORACLE Lighting model is. I'm guessing you'll run into the same "issue" of needing to push the power button on every time you need light.

If you're wanting a cargo/truck light to illuminate upon opening the doors (whether tapped into the Dome lights or switched via the NO magnetic switch), you'll probably need to opt for LED strips or rock lights retrofitted to wherever you want lighting. I know there is a competitor (Brawlee™ silicone light bar), but I'm unfamiliar if it would act similarly to what I've mentioned any time it loses a constant power supply.

 

[Fuel Fire Desire]

Older thread, but I just installed the Oracle light and the new production units have the same mentioned issues. The factory screws are too short to reach the wiper housing with the Oracle mold design. I just bought longer 4mm screws. The LED rings on the switches still stay on constantly. I’ll look tomorrow to see if the color coding is the same and cut the blue wire to kill the lights. They probably have a tiny draw, but I don’t want any more constant drain on the battery than what’s needed. No need for always on beauty lights on a switch. I have a cargo rack, so they’re hidden, but imagine they would be obnoxious in the rear view mirror at night.

Annoying and unnecessary feature. But the buttons themselves look and feel nice, and are in a good spot.

I tapped into the 12v socket by using one of those terrible wire tap clamps. A mini blade fuse was added to protect the wire up through the hard top. I left the blade fuse housing nested in the pocket under the cover that hides the tail light housing bolt to access the fuse if needed. Ground was run to the existing grounding post the factory harness uses. The quick disconnect I used was a water tight connector I poached from a cube light harness. The remaining run of cable was fished through the hard top channel that houses the factory harness, but it now “permanent” as the cable wedged itself in a tight seam inside the hard top structure. It’s there forever. Once the cable reached the glass there was JUST enough room to stuff the Oracle cable in the factory conduit.

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