Jeep wont start

NBB

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Wiring diagrams here indicate both batteries are charged by the same ckt. Seeing as the 2 batteries are very different in size, this seems like a rather fundamental design flaw - with lots of posts to this forum confirming. Be ready to replace both batteries more often - is the result, IMO - both will wear out faster - basically as they drain and charge each other, cycling both more than a normal battery is cycled.





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WranglerMan

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Wiring diagrams here indicate both batteries are charged by the same ckt. Seeing as the 2 batteries are very different in size, this seems like a rather fundamental design flaw - with lots of posts to this forum confirming. Be ready to replace both batteries more often - is the result, IMO - both will wear out faster - basically as they drain and charge each other, cycling both more than a normal battery is cycled.
This is why I chose this route, both batteries are identical and of excellent quality, they are 64ah rated and from Full River, from my limited research the cells are made by Odyssey.

I also do a weekly voltage top off and then a monthly recondition using a NOCO 10 and Odyssey 20 multi charge conditioner

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mwilk012

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Yes i will be heading back to the city today, voltage is not normal so i will change the ESS battery on monday. Ive never had voltage so low...
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you need to have it looked at, something is still quite wrong. Aux battery is probably toast.
 
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you need to have it looked at, something is still quite wrong. Aux battery is probably toast.
Yes it is, still
Not back at home but will be heading back

soon... its gettin worst , still have a 2 hr drive
 

NBB

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Per video - it appears to me that the charger is smart enough to conserve power on acceleration, increase charge on decel. This reduces emissions and increases gas mileage. Really - anything above 12V is fine. Keep driving. I'd definitely test then likely replace the aux battery when you can, but vehicle dying on side of road before Monday seems unlikely - but depends on what aftermarket stuff you have installed and how you installed it.
 

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Per video - it appears to me that the charger is smart enough to conserve power on acceleration, increase charge on decel. This reduces emissions and increases gas mileage. Really - anything above 12V is fine. Keep driving. I'd definitely test then likely replace the aux battery when you can, but vehicle dying on side of road before Monday seems unlikely - but depends on what aftermarket stuff you have installed and how you installed it.
Man, that’s really bad advice. It needs to be looked at ASAP, or you’re going to end up either on the side of the road or at least in a parking lot.
 

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Man, that’s really bad advice. It needs to be looked at ASAP, or you’re going to end up either on the side of the road or at least in a parking lot.
Computer varying the alternator load has been around a long time for exactly the reason stated. If there are no codes, I wouldn’t worry. The aux battery could be toast, he is indeed at risk but far less so with a new start battery. The volt meter isn’t going to confirm that one way or the other.
 

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Computer varying the alternator load has been around a long time for exactly the reason stated. If there are no codes, I wouldn’t worry. The aux battery could be toast, he is indeed at risk but far less so with a new start battery. The volt meter isn’t going to confirm that one way or the other.
uhhh do you not see the big yellow A? There’s obviously codes in the system.
 

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The A with a circle is an issue with ESS, here’s how a smart charging system works https://www.redarc.com.au/alternator-vs-fixed-alternator

The JL is not supposed to throw 14 volts all the time, the voltage ramps up on deceleration or braking this reduces the load on the alternator and by design is supposed to improve mileage and increase the life of the alternator, smart charging has been around for along time.

When the IBS sees a battery at close to a full charge it directs the alternator not to throw a lot of voltage and amps to the battery as it’s pointless and only serves to shorten battery life.

I used Jscan for several weeks to turn off the IBS system and I honestly saw no increase in fuel efficiency so turned it back on.

I would have the ESS battery looked at but what does the ESS screen advise since you have a dash display that indicates ESS is not operational ?

Heres some info from the manual on ESS and the circled A error indicator

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So today I finally changed the aux battery, no more battery voltage at 12.7! I was going to wait until i received my genesis dual battery set up but im traveling tomorrow so i didnt want to take any chances...oh and my auto start warning light is gone, know i know when that warning light comes again its probably aux battery dead
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WranglerMan

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Is you went as far as to remove the aux battery you could have moved the positive lead to the main and disconnected the ESS negative and it would have worked fine but if you would have done that I would have said don’t use the ESS system as it taxes the main to much, you will like the Genesis system ...

My starting EVIC displayed voltage today was just over 14 but within an hour or so of driving it dropped to 13.1-13.2, don’t be surprised once you get the dual battery system you will see around 13 volts displayed if it’s a daily driver
 

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