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Jeep won't start - complete dash freak out

YarrrMatey

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Mine freaked out as well this past Sunday after driving 20 miles. As I parked it for about 30 minutes, tried to start it and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree, as others have mentioned their steps in trying to start, I did the same. As I waited for the system to 'settle' as I could not go from Run to Off, once it "settled" I was able to set it to Off. Next, I tried to start it, it started for about 30 seconds before shutting down on its own. Waited 30 seconds and used the remote start and it cranked. at this point, the check engine light was on ONLY, the ESS and Parking Assist features were not working. I drove around the parking lot to see if the warnings would come on again, they did not, so I drove home as I debated on dropping it off at the dealership.

Once I got home, I popped the hood and seated every large fuse. Every fuse was not firmly seated, I pressed down on each until there was a click. Cranked it up and the check engine light went away. On Monday, I went into the dealership for an oil change and talked to my sales rep and he didn't believe me that the fuses weren't firmly seated, so we popped open 2 showroom vehicles, 2020 Sahara and a 2020 Gladiator Rubicon, same, all of the fuses were not seated, he pressed down on every fuse until they clicked.

Check your fuses, could the electrical issues be preventable if the fuses were properly seated?
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nypharm

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Did the dealer replace both batteries, or just one?
I believe just one, the dealer is refusing to answer my calls even or call me back. Have a dead vehicle and they are useless. I drove bmws for over decade and never seen such terrible customer service.
 

YarrrMatey

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Well, my luck ended, it’s definitely not the loose fuses. JLUR was dead in the water at a stop light, waited it out like the other day, started up, but it did not shift out of 3rd gear for some odd reason from a dead stop. Pulled into a gas station which was about 100ft away, let it sit for about 10 minutes, cranked it up again, CEL stayed on, drove to the dealership, and now the wait.....
 

Rhadams1986

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I know the thread is old, but hopefully someone else wil see this and it might help them. If it should be somewhere else let me know or post it for me. I have a 2021 Wrangler Rubicon that I bought just over a month ago. This weekend my wife was driving and the dash freaked out, literally every warning came on and once the car shut off it wouldn't start again. I've heard of people losing power steering and stalling, while trying to figure out what my issue was, but that did not happen to me. The jeep was driven home with all the warning lights on and parked. I came across this forum and used the advice and checked my fuses. This was quick and easy, with all the fuses checking out. I then read about this similar issue in regards to the Aux battery dieing causing the jeep to go wonky. So I pulled the main battery and fuse box and checked for the Aux battery......there was nothing there. Being a brand new jeep owner I was shocked to find out there was an Aux battery, I was then even more shocked when the compartment was empty. Further research told me that the N5 terminal was my positive lead for my ESS and N2 was my Aux battery. I also found out you could access the Aux battery from the fender well, FYI much easier. Once again brand new jeep owner I thought huh my 2021 has the battery that you need to access through the fender well. So I did. I popped of the fender well, found and opened the compartment, and there was nothing there. This is when I knew I fuc$*d up.....they were indeed the same compartment but for some reason a small part of me wanted to find an Aux battery. Also thought someone may have stolen the Aux battery because the fender looked like it had been accessed before; the plastic rivets did not go through the tire well rain guard. So after a day of scratching my head, metering voltage, checking grounds for tightness, and research; also finding out there is no Aux battery on a 2021 (FYI Jeep used a metal jumper between N1 and N2), I decided I'd call the dealer and have them fix it. I put everything back together, and when I reconnected the negative battery and tightened it I went ahead and grabbed it to check the connection...it rotated 45 degrees and popped off. I slid it back on rotated it the other way, at which point it felt like it made a better connection, yes the bolt was tight. As soon as I opened my car door I knew something was different my RPM and MPH bezel lit up as to where before it wasn't, just my center message screen would come on. The Car started right up.... so I made my little sleeve out of tinfoil and slapped around the negative battery post seems to be working.....fingers crossed that was the issue. Hopefully my experience helps.
 

Rico1111

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I know the thread is old, but hopefully someone else wil see this and it might help them. If it should be somewhere else let me know or post it for me. I have a 2021 Wrangler Rubicon that I bought just over a month ago. This weekend my wife was driving and the dash freaked out, literally every warning came on and once the car shut off it wouldn't start again. I've heard of people losing power steering and stalling, while trying to figure out what my issue was, but that did not happen to me. The jeep was driven home with all the warning lights on and parked. I came across this forum and used the advice and checked my fuses. This was quick and easy, with all the fuses checking out. I then read about this similar issue in regards to the Aux battery dieing causing the jeep to go wonky. So I pulled the main battery and fuse box and checked for the Aux battery......there was nothing there. Being a brand new jeep owner I was shocked to find out there was an Aux battery, I was then even more shocked when the compartment was empty. Further research told me that the N5 terminal was my positive lead for my ESS and N2 was my Aux battery. I also found out you could access the Aux battery from the fender well, FYI much easier. Once again brand new jeep owner I thought huh my 2021 has the battery that you need to access through the fender well. So I did. I popped of the fender well, found and opened the compartment, and there was nothing there. This is when I knew I fuc$*d up.....they were indeed the same compartment but for some reason a small part of me wanted to find an Aux battery. Also thought someone may have stolen the Aux battery because the fender looked like it had been accessed before; the plastic rivets did not go through the tire well rain guard. So after a day of scratching my head, metering voltage, checking grounds for tightness, and research; also finding out there is no Aux battery on a 2021 (FYI Jeep used a metal jumper between N1 and N2), I decided I'd call the dealer and have them fix it. I put everything back together, and when I reconnected the negative battery and tightened it I went ahead and grabbed it to check the connection...it rotated 45 degrees and popped off. I slid it back on rotated it the other way, at which point it felt like it made a better connection, yes the bolt was tight. As soon as I opened my car door I knew something was different my RPM and MPH bezel lit up as to where before it wasn't, just my center message screen would come on. The Car started right up.... so I made my little sleeve out of tinfoil and slapped around the negative battery post seems to be working.....fingers crossed that was the issue. Hopefully my experience helps.
What engine do you have?? Woooa no auxiliary!!! WTF what was their explanation?
 

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Rico1111

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Can You take a picture of the Jumper? This may be the their new way of dealing with this set up! I have read multiple times of forum members removing the cable from aux and wrapping it and installing the jumper between N1and N2 but have never heard of this being implemented from the Dealer.
 

JayJay

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Can You take a picture of the Jumper? This may be the their new way of dealing with this set up! I have read multiple times of forum members removing the cable from aux and wrapping it and installing the jumper between N1and N2 but have never heard of this being implemented from the Dealer.
Don't you think that it's more likely that his jeep is equipped with the eTorque system instead of ESS?
 

Rhinebeck01

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Don't you think that it's more likely that his jeep is equipped with the eTorque system instead of ESS?

@JayJay
@Ricco1111


eTorque system.... is indeed what @Rhadams1986 's JL has..

With eTorque ........and the JL, you will see the factory has placed a solid metal jumper between N1 and N2 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).

You will also find that there is NO, Aux battery negative cable attached to the Main batteries Neg terminal... you will just see an available stud on the Main battery terminal, with no cable attached to it...

And indeed, the plastic box under the PDC/ hiding behind the passenger fender flare, is there... but does not have an Aux battery in it.. it is just an empty box.

And yes, there are also other differences......

.
 

Rhadams1986

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What engine do you have?? Woooa no auxiliary!!! WTF what was their explanation?
What engine do you have?? Woooa no auxiliary!!! WTF what was their explanation?
I have the 3.6 with ESS. No explanation yet, I just dropped it off at the dealer. I don't think the 2021s came with one. Looking at the leads on the fuse box it looks like N1 and N2 have a metal plate between them for the ESS, as to where previous ones didnt..... Once again brand new to Jeeps.
 

Rhadams1986

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Can You take a picture of the Jumper? This may be the their new way of dealing with this set up! I have read multiple times of forum members removing the cable from aux and wrapping it and installing the jumper between N1and N2 but have never heard of this being implemented from the Dealer.
1637810931710286106518714447561.jpg
 

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Rhadams1986

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@JayJay
@Ricco1111


eTorque system.... is indeed what @Rhadams1986 's JL has..

With eTorque ........and the JL, you will see the factory has placed a solid metal jumper between N1 and N2 in the Power Distribution Center (PDC).

You will also find that there is NO, Aux battery negative cable attached to the Main batteries Neg terminal... you will just see an available stud on the Main battery terminal, with no cable attached to it...

And indeed, the plastic box under the PDC/ hiding behind the passenger fender flare, is there... but does not have an Aux battery in it.. it is just an empty box.

And yes, there are also other differences......

.
Etourqe is the hybrid no?
 

Rhadams1986

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Don't you think that it's more likely that his jeep is equipped with the eTorque system instead of ESS?
It definitely has the Electronic Start Stop, and there is also now way I get 15 mpg with a dang hybrid....
 

JayJay

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It definitely has the Electronic Start Stop, and there is also now way I get 15 mpg with a dang hybrid....
The eTorque system isn't a hybrid in the normal sense and doesn't improve gas mileage. Why are you sure that it's the ESS system. Are you the original owner?
 

Rhadams1986

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The eTorque system isn't a hybrid in the normal sense and doesn't improve gas mileage. Why are you sure that it's the ESS system. Are you the original owner?
I'm not, how would I be able to tell the difference.
 

JayJay

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I'm not, how would I be able to tell the difference.
The eTorque system doesn't have a second battery under the fuse box. It does have a second battery but it's larger and under the vehicle toward the back.
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