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Intake Cam Failures - Materials, Design, or both?

jeepingib

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That would be a design failure to me, should be roller
Flat tappet cams have been used for decades without having constant failures so long as they are properly lubricated and not overloaded. So I wouldn't say that roller bearings are a requirement.
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[/QUOTE]
I think that this also is a condition that leads to excessive wear. High lift operation has a steeper ramp I would assume. So defaulting to the steeper ramp during low/no oil pressure instead of the more gradual curve of low lift can't be helping the situation.
Really is what it looks like
I agree with you guys. Cold starts could be a big contributor. Probably why that one oil filter adapter thing (Baxter) would be a good mod

That would be a design failure to me, should be roller
Agree!! I think Jeep needs to hire us.
 

azjl#3

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I used the wrong term, I had failure stuck in my head when I should have said fatigue.

When the surface of one part repeatedly slides against the surface of another part it produces a cyclic stretching action at the surfaces. If the surface stress that develops as a result of the stretching action exceeds the fatigue strength of the metal, tiny surface cracks will initiate and grow into the part. Surface pits form when the cracks join. Once pitting starts, more pits form until the surface is no longer usable. This action is sliding contact stress fatigue wear.

Contact stress fatigue (CSF) wear occurs when surfaces that roll or slide against each other are overloaded. Overloading may occur also because of misalignment or because that lubricant film has weakened due to lower viscosity or higher temperature. CSF also may occur because parts have been used beyond their expected service life.
And get heat, lots of it. My use of 0w20 always had oil temperatures leading coolant temps when above 3000 rpm. Interestingly, using 5w30, oil temps now lag coolant temps above 3000 rpm.
 

jeepingib

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And get heat, lots of it. My use of 0w20 always had oil temperatures leading coolant temps when above 3000 rpm. Interestingly, using 5w30, oil temps now lag coolant temps above 3000 rpm.
From the picture of failures that I've seen I don't see excessive heat. Typically a high heat failure of lubrication will cause the parts to get a varnish, or the metal to get hot enough to discolor. I don't see that, it just looks like someone slowly ground away at the lobes with abrasive material over time.
 

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I agree with you guys. Cold starts could be a big contributor. Probably why that one oil filter adapter thing (Baxter) would be a good mod
Doing the gas + brake trick to turn the engine over and get the oil pump going for 10s before starting it is WAY cheaper than the Baxter. It's free.
 

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bmpcamry09

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Doing the gas + brake trick to turn the engine over and get the oil pump going for 10s before starting it is WAY cheaper than the Baxter. It's free.
Just when I thought the extended cranking trick days were over for me after I replaced cam phasers on my last 3.5 Ecoboost truck I owned 🤣
 

azjl#3

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Flat tappet cams have been used for decades without having constant failures so long as they are properly lubricated and not overloaded. So I wouldn't say that roller bearings are a requirement.
Meh not entirely.

Old school has the flat tapped arm on a rod or tube maybe maybe not oiled. But minimal contac.

The ends of the arm, touch the lifter rod, in a cup, splash oiled. Rod goes to lifter, lifters solid or hyd splash oiled. Other side of arm on the valve stem, splash oiled.

All that stuff well treated to do the job. But like I said, covid era metallurgy from overseas, has seen a dramatic failure rate increase.

To the picture above, that lifter shoe is treated with some magic anti wear product, rubbing directly on the cam. To me thats a design failure waiting to happen, all in the guise of saving 40 bucks an engine
 

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Doing the gas + brake trick to turn the engine over and get the oil pump going for 10s before starting it is WAY cheaper than the Baxter. It's free.
Ok, never heard this one. Just depress both a few times before starting? I'll do any trick needed to get rid of that tick on startup. It's maddening, makes me think of developing cam problems every time I hear it.
 

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What we all see is the aftermath of the cause of failure. The metal left on the rocker shoe and especially the peak of the cam lobe, is soft under the "eggshell" hard layer. So, yes, it's soft iron. I just don't buy into that every cam made for the PUG has one soft lobe and all the others are fine, over and over for years without detection. In fact, I'd bet a brisket that the base circle of a failed lobe could be superficially hardness tested and it'd show that it has a hard layer, as it should.
 

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Ok, never heard this one. Just depress both a few times before starting? I'll do any trick needed to get rid of that tick on startup. It's maddening, makes me think of developing cam problems every time I hear it.
Hold gas and brake to the floor, press start button like you were starting it like normal. Keep both depressed and starter will run for ~10 seconds and crank the engine without firing. If you want to run multiple times you can, just release pedals between runs.

My 2.0 JLR sits for a while sometimes (one of my kids is too little to sit in a forward facing seat, and given how absolutely fucking massive rear facing car seats are, she only just barely fits in my JT with no hope of fitting in the 2 door next to my toddler) and so I do this trick to be gentler on it when I start it up after a while. Run it 2 or 3 times to get everything a little oiling.
 

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azjl#3

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I won't bog down this tech thread with an explanation of why BBQ is a category of food instead of a specific dish. But you Carolina folks have your head on backwards sometimes.

Back to the topic of Cams. The picture above is similar to others that I've seen from the PUG. And it still makes me question the metallurgy of the cam. Hear me out. Yes, what we see is abrasive wear of the lobe due to lack of lubrication. There is no spalling or pitting which would typically be present when a hardened surface is overloaded. We just see a perfect groove where the slipper wore away at the cam. That to me at least looks like soft metal and lack of lubrication.
I agree, that camshaft looks like a lot of copper is showing, not what I expect a cam to look like, goes back to metallurgy.

Last concept, the somehow bad oiling to the specific bank one location, that would be real hard to do, and probably needs a milling machine to open the oil valleys for a look.

I was lucky in 2013, my first year 3.6 did not have sand cast issue. But did have $12,000 of warranty work on everything bolted to front in first 9 months, hence it went to lemon heaven.
 

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Why is it the same lobe over and over again?.
 

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Hold gas and brake to the floor, press start button like you were starting it like normal. Keep both depressed and starter will run for ~10 seconds and crank the engine without firing. If you want to run multiple times you can, just release pedals between runs.

My 2.0 JLR sits for a while sometimes (one of my kids is too little to sit in a forward facing seat, and given how absolutely fucking massive rear facing car seats are, she only just barely fits in my JT with no hope of fitting in the 2 door next to my toddler) and so I do this trick to be gentler on it when I start it up after a while. Run it 2 or 3 times to get everything a little oiling.
Thank you, sir. I will certainly give this a try. My JLR is not a daily driver, and situation is similar to yours but not kiddo-related. My only concern is dry-cranking the engine for 10 seconds or so. But I guess that's the idea; to get the oil moving to the important bits before the rpms skyrocket.
 

jeepingib

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Why is it the same lobe over and over again?.
I would guess that it is in a low pressure area for the oiling network. So last to get oil on startup. I do definitely think that it is a heat treating issue contributing to it the more I look at it. The slipper shows very little wear, and the cam surface doesn't exhibit any signs of proper treatment and overloading that is typically present in cam failures with proper hardening. As to why we don't see it on every engine and it's just hit or miss... That's a bigger mystery. Could be that the oven that they put them in to create that tempur during the heat treatment process has a cold spot that only affects some of the cams out of a batch or some other similar anomaly.
 

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Why is it the same lobe over and over again?.
Do you know what the conditions are for the VVL system going into high lift? Thought occurred to me that as much wear as was on the pictured cam from earlier would require probably significant time where the roller shoe or whatever you wanna call it is in contact with the cam. Wonder if it's in contact with the cam when it shouldn't be and that's when it's wearing. Stuck partially up or something, due to a peculiarity of the oiling system or even a software fault if the solenoid state is wrong or something.
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