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I REALLY NEED SOME HELP

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Bptchris01

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6-Spd w/4.88's and 35" tires checking in. First, when you start it up and the engine is cold for emissions reasons the ECU revs the engine to 2K RPM for a couple minutes until it gets warm and the normal idle speed of around 700 RPM kicks in. Annoying, but normal. I've always wondered if the automatics do this, I have no experience there...

Second, as others have said, your problem is with gears. If you are going to spend any money at all it should be to solve the high 3.45 gearing problem first. Personally I think the 4.88 gears are perfect with 35" tires, but I live at 6,000 feet elevation. 4.56's might be fine for sea level, but note, there really isn't any difference in price between 4.88 gears and 4.56 gears, so if you're planning on using the Jeep like The Good Lord has intended, 'wheeling in the mountains, go with the lower ratio (4.88) gears.

Third, while you're in there you might as well install a limited slip in the rear axle, even if it means eating Top Ramen for a couple more weeks. I was poor when I built my CJ-7, I've been there. The results were worth it. Good Luck, and tell us how it comes out. Ignore the haters and listen to Zouch, even though he doesn't know how to spell Jeep. :)
Lol Yes sir. Thanks
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Bptchris01

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6-Spd w/4.88's and 35" tires checking in. First, when you start it up and the engine is cold for emissions reasons the ECU revs the engine to 2K RPM for a couple minutes until it gets warm and the normal idle speed of around 700 RPM kicks in. Annoying, but normal. I've always wondered if the automatics do this, I have no experience there...

Second, as others have said, your problem is with gears. If you are going to spend any money at all it should be to solve the high 3.45 gearing problem first. Personally I think the 4.88 gears are perfect with 35" tires, but I live at 6,000 feet elevation. 4.56's might be fine for sea level, but note, there really isn't any difference in price between 4.88 gears and 4.56 gears, so if you're planning on using the Jeep like The Good Lord has intended, 'wheeling in the mountains, go with the lower ratio (4.88) gears.

Third, while you're in there you might as well install a limited slip in the rear axle, even if it means eating Top Ramen for a couple more weeks. I was poor when I built my CJ-7, I've been there. The results were worth it. Good Luck, and tell us how it comes out. Ignore the haters and listen to Zouch, even though he doesn't know how to spell Jeep. :)
Are you in Colorado?
 

Pig-Pen

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if you dont mind tackling the gear install yourself, and it CAN be done, then you get that done asap for fairly cheap. you can get gears for a few hundred bucks. you dont have to buy dana spicer gears. most of the shops install the cheapest gears they can so they can make $$ on the labor. the only issues people have are poor installs. if you install it yourself, you have total control over that. do that and you can keep your jeep as is.

if you had an auto trans you'd be ok with the 35s and stock gears but with a stick (from what ive read over the years) its absolutely necessary to regear or life will suck.

if you can afford it right now, then just drive it as is. it wont be great but it wont damage anything. worst that can happen is your clutch grenades but that would be covered under warranty. is guess the clutch issue is so widely spread they wont hassle people for having bigger tires.

i wouldnt listen to people saying you can afford your jeep. if you can make the payments then you can afford it like any other vehicle. especially if its under warranty still. it may not have optimum performance if you cannot afford to do all the mods that make it perform better but you can tackle those over time at your own pace. you'll get there.

a friend has a manual jeep with $$$ poured into and is still on stock clutch after many many miles, much of which have been offroad on tough terrain. regears were done though. paid a shop $$ to do it. if you are willing to tackle it yourself, go for it! @chevymitchell is an amazing resource on that job and will help you if you run into trouble.
 

melendez69

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Forgive me if this has been covered… and I understand it’s pointless now, but did you even test drive this?
 

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Jesus Christ on cracker…. He just wants help. This dude has been berated since the first reply.

Can we go back to being a helpful and welcoming community. Sure, if someone jumps on being prick, serve em up. But for a guy just seeking help and willing to take advice…. Calm your magic tits already.
 

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Bptchris01

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Jesus Christ on cracker…. He just wants help. This dude has been berated since the first reply.

Can we go back to being a helpful and welcoming community. Sure, if someone jumps on being prick, serve em up. But for a guy just seeking help and willing to take advice…. Calm your magic tits already.
Thank you
 

mwilk012

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Focus. First question, is your clutch OK?
Your video looks fine. When you've clutched in, the engine RPMs are decreasing because you're off the accelerator but still in gear, so the engine is not getting any gas and it's just slowly spinning down. As soon as you shift to neutral, the engine goes into "idle" (like when it sits at a stoplight) and the computer gives the engine gas again (without the accelerator being pressed), thus the spike in RPMs.

If you have no other symptoms, your clutch should be OK. You could check by driving around 1500 RPM in 4th or 5th on the highway and then flooring the gas pedal. If the RPMs shoot up quickly (out of proportion to the Jeep's speed), you have a bad clutch. If your vehicle slowly accelerates (there's not much torque at 1500) and then the RPMs increase as your speed slowly increases, your clutch is probably OK.

If you pass that, and I suspect you will, there's no need to spend money on a clutch or anything else. Full stop. There is no problem that needs fixing. Everything else is optional. A great optional upgrade would be to regear because with 35" tires and 3.45 gears, your Jeep is probably woefully sluggish. Many would regear to 4.56 or 4.88. (I'm about to regear my manual to 4.56 and I'm only on 32" tires.) But you don't have to if you don't mind how it drives.
The clutch is NOT okay on any JL. They are a defective design, and it needs to be replaced. They also need to regear to push the 35’s that are on the sport with 3.45’s.
 

azjl#3

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Not going to like my answer, if poor, go back to stock tires, take the lift off, sorry.

35's with wrong gearing, bad times for sure.
 

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58Willys

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1st to 2nd is ok. 2-3 can be a little weak(in my opinion). 3-4 is really weak and when I'm in 5th it will actually slow down even though I can have it floored. I've been told that it might have to do with the clutch recall. Before I beg and borrow to get a centerforce can anyone tell me if it's the clutch or not?
This is not a clutch issue. Your differential gearing combined with tire size is putting you at very low RPM’s in 5th gear. The fuel computer is sending this and cutting fuel to the motor so as not to the lug the engine and damage it. You can cure this by downshifting, probably two gears; or re-gear your diffs.
 

RubberFrog

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This is not a clutch issue. Your differential gearing combined with tire size is putting you at very low RPM’s in 5th gear. The fuel computer is sending this and cutting fuel to the motor so as not to the lug the engine and damage it. You can cure this by downshifting, probably two gears; or re-gear your diffs.
I think this is a big part of it. I suspect OP is shifting at too low of an RPM.
 

azwjowner

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I think this is a big part of it. I suspect OP is shifting at too low of an RPM.
Yep but if he shifts at 3500 RPM and sticks to the first four gears, he should be fine until he can save up for a regear. As I've mentioned, his 1st gear is still lower than a JK's even with 35s.
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