Heated Steering Wheel - It can be done.

[Brenden80011]

Hello all,

install is done and the seats are working. A couple of quick points for those that want to use the infotainment wiring harness.

1. I back-fed the wiring through the driver side firewall plug. Manual owners would need to find an alternative way.

2. the 12 volt connector is so long bc you are supposed to use the cigar lighter in the cargo area and move the fuse to battery. I connected to the cigar lighter in the dash and the seats don’t turn on with the auto start.

3. the heat is not as hot as my factory gladiator was. That being said, my temp gun measured 104 after I drove around the jeep for 30 min. High is still very warm and I moved to med heat and was very comfortable on a 20 degree day. It does not get blister your skin hot through. Maybe better than factory?

I hope this helps and it was easy once I figured out where to route everything. I would purchase again if I needed to do this for another vehicle

I will update when I do the wheel but it will be much later or next fall.

I am looking to start routing the wiring loom this weekend, any helpful tricks on how you routed the cables throughout the cab?

Hmm,
I think I would do this differently, if you connect it to the cigarette lighter in the cargo area and change the fuse to battery then the module would be powered on all the time. A simpler solution would be to use a fuse tap on fuse 58, 59 or 60 to power on the relays which would enable the remote start heated seats/wheel and save a bunch of wiring. Those fuses are the fuses for the factory heated seats and wheel.
Gregj

Looking at the loom, it has a POS and NEG wires headed to that "12V connection". Assuming I were to go this route as I am also installing the auto start after this, I would just route that neg wire to a ground in the bay as well?

If I went with the intended wiring solution, does the rear 12V outlet provide power during autostart to obtain the autostart heated features?

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[Gregj]

I am looking to start routing the wiring loom this weekend, any helpful tricks on how you routed the cables throughout the cab?



Looking at the loom, it has a POS and NEG wires headed to that "12V connection". Assuming I were to go this route as I am also installing the auto start after this, I would just route that neg wire to a ground in the bay as well?

If I went with the intended wiring solution, does the rear 12V outlet provide power during autostart to obtain the autostart heated features?

Yes, just use a good ground point in the engine bay, there are several.

On the rear outlet it just depends on how you have the fuse installed. Most aftermarket remote starts turn everything on while the factory only turns on a few circuits, just the necessary circuits for it to run.
Gregj

 

[Brenden80011]

Yes, just use a good ground point in the engine bay, there are several.

On the rear outlet it just depends on how you have the fuse installed. Most aftermarket remote starts turn everything on while the factory only turns on a few circuits, just the necessary circuits for it to run.
Gregj

Im doing the oem/mopar autostart system. I ended up wiring it to the front 12V port since I never use it as is, we'll see how that works out. I still have plenty of line to run back to the fuse box or I can extent the wires.

Side note for anyone savy with the canbus system. I already have something in my 8th spot from the right. Any idea what it could be? I've got time while im waiting on my clock spring to come in but I didn't wanna start unplugging things just yet. I got a 21 ecodiesel with the tow package, led package, and 8.4 entertainment package.

 

[Gregj]

It doesn’t matter which port you plug into, they all preform the same function EXCEPT the first one, that one has an extra wire in it. I suppose that extra wire is to power the block .
Gregj

 

[Brenden80011]

Just wanted to post a follow up. I received all the parts a couple of weeks ago from various sources. I will post what I paid below and how I got them all. For context, I have a 21 JLURD with almost all factory options but the oem heated options and remote start (next project).

I wanted to start off by saying that infotainment harness is worth its weight in gold. As someone who builds coax, ethernet, etc custom cables as part of my occupation, the quality is pretty nice and saves so much time.

It took me a total of about 10 hours over 3 days to knock this out. First day was wiring install which was pretty self explanatory minute the 2 clock spring pins. I was lucky enough to have the connectors that were pinned out factory from the various parts I orders so I color matched that way.

Day two was seats. I found this video helpful for figuring out how to take apart the seats and do the hog rings. Took about 3 hours for the first seat (Passenger) and 2 for the driver. Word of warning, the driver is a bit more complicated due to the various adjustment knobs on the door side of the seat, which also has the airbags. Only issue I ran into was I ripped out a small bit of the foam side cable that you hog ring too on the back. Some quick Gorilla glue fixed it back up and held just find.



Day three was the steering column. It took me about two hours going slow to make sure the vehicle was completely discharged, figuring out the steering column, etc.

All in all, not a bad install!

$256.19 68599295AA (NEW) Clock spring (Ebay)
$141.47 Steering Wheel (Heated/Non-ACC)(Ebay)
$70.18 Control module 68510873AA (Messed up and paid for one with shipping)(Ebay)
$67.25 Climate Stack (P7BU53DX9AB)(Ebay)
$197.63 2x 68294073AD (MyMoparPart.com)
$138.39 1X 68294071AD (GA Dealer)
$154.57 1X 68294071AD (NY Dealer)
$323.93 Infotainment Harness
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$1349.61 - Total

Now, that is way more than the factory option and I have yet to sell the parts I replaced which should hopefully net me back some $$$, but I would still recommend this to anyone who wants the oem heated options and has even a small amount of tools/know how.

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