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Head Gasket at 50k

Cheyenne

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I called Endurance for a warranty quote and the guy told me that price was high due to typical head gasket replacement at 50k. I looked this up and it indeed seems like a problem for the 3.6 engines. I have a 2.0 turbo. Should I expect this to happen? I'm at 49k.
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kah.mun.rah

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Use your powertrain warranty from the factory (dealership).
 

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I called Endurance for a warranty quote and the guy told me that price was high due to typical head gasket replacement at 50k. I looked this up and it indeed seems like a problem for the 3.6 engines. I have a 2.0 turbo. Should I expect this to happen? I'm at 49k.
No. While head gasket replacements aren't unknown on any engine, they're not a recurring issue on the 2.0Ts to the extent that, for example, failed seams on that engine's pressurized coolant reservoir tanks occasionally are.
 

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Biggest issue in the 2.0 is when the cooling fan kicks in. Factory has it kick in at 225 and thats WAY too hot. Do yourself a favor and install a different fan controller. In my opinion its the best way to prevent/limit heat issues. This could actually also help with the 2.0 Coolant reservoir splitting due excessive heat to some degree

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx
 

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NWJeepr

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I called Endurance for a warranty quote and the guy told me that price was high due to typical head gasket replacement at 50k. I looked this up and it indeed seems like a problem for the 3.6 engines. I have a 2.0 turbo. Should I expect this to happen? I'm at 49k.
In short, no, you shouldn’t expect it to happen on a 2.0.

You should be vigilant regarding coolant leaks and keep an eye on the coolant reservoir, both of them, and check the black one often. It’s prone to splitting and leaking, which can then lead to an overheating condition.
 

7c102c600853ce38121

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aluminum heads.......multi layered head gaskets......high temp operating conditions........poor fuel........torque to yield bolts........turbo..........what could go wrong :)
not…….much…as……….it seems….from……. 7…..years…..of….production………. 🙂
 
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In short, no, you shouldn’t expect it to happen on a 2.0.

You should be vigilant regarding coolant leaks and keep an eye on the coolant reservoir, both of them, and check the black one often. It’s prone to splitting and leaking, which can then lead to an overheating condition.
I know. I bought a backup and keep it in the Jeep.
 

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Rogersocal

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Do you have an install thread?

I dont think there is a install thread, but i know there are a couple discussions about that fan controller on these forums
 
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Cheyenne

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Biggest issue in the 2.0 is when the cooling fan kicks in. Factory has it kick in at 225 and thats WAY too hot. Do yourself a favor and install a different fan controller. In my opinion its the best way to prevent/limit heat issues. This could actually also help with the 2.0 Coolant reservoir splitting due excessive heat to some degree

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx
Biggest issue in the 2.0 is when the cooling fan kicks in. Factory has it kick in at 225 and thats WAY too hot. Do yourself a favor and install a different fan controller. In my opinion its the best way to prevent/limit heat issues. This could actually also help with the 2.0 Coolant reservoir splitting due excessive heat to some degree

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx
Hi this makes sense. The site says I can order positive negative or can only. Not going to pretend that I understand this. Maybe you can tell me which? Will have my mechanic install it.
 

Rogersocal

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The Can bus only means that it only reads and reacts to temps and does not allow for outside triggering like from a switch. The outside triggering allows you to override the controller and push your fan to full on. The pos/neg just means are you switching ground or are you switching power for that switch.

I got mine as Canbus only. I saw my temps drop from the 215/220 or higher to right about 195 with the new controller. Yes when you step on it the temps climbs but quickly drops back down as the fan controller reacts.

Th install isnt "Hard" but you will be cutting/splicing/ soldering wires at ECU. I would recommend disconnecting the battery for this, although i didn't but im used to working with live power on a normal basis.
 

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Biggest issue in the 2.0 is when the cooling fan kicks in. Factory has it kick in at 225 and thats WAY too hot. Do yourself a favor and install a different fan controller. In my opinion its the best way to prevent/limit heat issues. This could actually also help with the 2.0 Coolant reservoir splitting due excessive heat to some degree

http://www.rpmextreme.com/Product/311/Jeep-JL-PWM-FAN-CONTROLLER.aspx
More curious than anything, but why do you think 225 is "too hot" ?
 

Rogersocal

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More curious than anything, but why do you think 225 is "too hot" ?

My ram 2500 6.7 pulling 10klbs runs at 195 degrees, My wifes pilot runs at 180-200. Most cars will run right around 200. An additional 25 degrees for just putsing around town is pretty high. Now step on it and watch it climb to 230, 235. Heat is one of the main ways to kill an engine.
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