Fuse box question

[Jhoussock]

I need two 15amp circuits for off-road lights. Plan is to use fuse taps as I don’t have the auxiliary switches. Are the fuse spots for the aux switches still hot if I add a fuse tap? Second question. If I use a 20amp fuse can I tap it and put a 15amp fuse in the new slot?

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[Sting_NC_USA]

I need two 15amp circuits for off-road lights. Plan is to use fuse taps as I don’t have the auxiliary switches. Are the fuse spots for the aux switches still hot if I add a fuse tap? Second question. If I use a 20amp fuse can I tap it and put a 15amp fuse in the new slot?

Not sure I'd recommend that route, as it's a pretty significant power draw to your system. Personally, I'd tie the power directly to the battery using an automotive relay that's engaged by your on off switch.

 

[Jhoussock]

Not sure I'd recommend that route, as it's a pretty significant power draw to your system. Personally, I'd tie the power directly to the battery using an automotive relay that's engaged by your on off switch.

So my plan was to use one of the guys below both connect directly to the battery. I was leaning toward the second one because it has 15 amp channels and I would tap the positive side of the light to the fuse box. Since it’s like a wireless switch. Maybe the first one is the better option since you connect positive and ground right to the module? This one is 18.5 amp rated so wasn’t sure if that Was okay since they recommend 15 amp for the lights. Would this method be okay? Or still recommend a relay? I was trying to avoid wiring a switch into the cabin. That’s why I was looking into the wireless switch route.

https://m.autozone.com/exterior-lig...hKmopiZb8WL7NmL87ugaAkmsEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Performance-Lighting-PL-SW29-Wireless/dp/B000BRJF62

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

Asking for permission to speak freely... Those options seem a bit "cheap." They also limit your capacity for larger power needs in the future. As a quick example, the Mopar AUX switch has 4 ports, two are 15amp and two are 40amp.

I'm a bit uncomfortable recommending either of the two options listed, and would recommend a higher quality product. The remote thing kind of scares me, too. Seems a bit gimmicky!?

Take a look at the sPod and S-Tech options, in addition to the Mopar Aux Switches. You'd likely be better off in the long run with the quality and reliability of your electronics by investing just a bit more.

Shy of upgrading to one of the above options, the direct relay approach would be your most cost-effective and reliable option.

Hope that helps!

 

[Jhoussock]

Asking for permission to speak freely... Those options seem a bit "cheap." They also limit your capacity for larger power needs in the future. As a quick example, the Mopar AUX switch has 4 ports, two are 15amp and two are 40amp.

I'm a bit uncomfortable recommending either of the two options listed, and would recommend a higher quality product. The remote thing kind of scares me, too. Seems a bit gimmicky!?

Take a look at the sPod and S-Tech options, in addition to the Mopar Aux Switches. You'd likely be better off in the long run with the quality and reliability of your electronics by investing just a bit more.

Shy of upgrading to one of the above options, the direct relay approach would be your most cost-effective and reliable option.

Hope that helps!

The s tech looks good...one last question it says that the switches are rated for 30a max is this an issue since the mopar lights I want to install say they need a 15a auxilary switch.

 

[Sting_NC_USA]

The s tech looks good...one last question it says that the switches are rated for 30a max is this an issue since the mopar lights I want to install say they need a 15a auxilary switch.

No, you're good. That just means the switches can handle up to a 30amp draw.

 

[Jimmy_jak]

Find an empty fuse slot that's only hot while ignition is on. Get a fuse and pull the filament place it in the fuse slot. Wire a relay off of that connection. Also place a legit fuse inline of the new setup.

 

[Jhoussock]

I think I’m gonna go with the trigger four plus for my install. It seems to be a quality option without having to install switches in the cabin.

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